Clutch line issue

[texas-ss-tornado]

OK, so on the 85 I'm working on, the springs around both the brake and clutch lines were rusted pretty bad, so I decided to replace them with good useds one I had handy. The brake side went without issue, but when I got to the clutch side, I COULD NOT get the 10 mm fitting on the slave side that connects to the line to BUDGE, doesn't even act like it wants to move! With a 17mm wrench on the fitting on the hose, and a 10 mm wrench on the line, I figured it would just come right apart. Wrong! The 10 mm fitting is already starting to strip on the outside, just wondering if anybody else has come across this and have any ideas. It's not reverse threaded, is it? I really don't want to take it off at the slave, but that looks like where I'm heading. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[one2dmax]

Standard thread on all locations on the bike (except the one mirror lol).

Sean

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

Well, I guess it's just 28 years worth of crud in there that's got it seized up. Maybe I will try a little heat! :biglaugh:

 

[Fire-medic]

TXSS, ya beat me to it! Bear in-mind you may roast the rubber parts, but a rebuild kit isn't very expensive, w/new rubbers. Maybe a minimal amount of heat to begin-with?

I had a '42 Mercury I was removing the fenders from, and after heating the bolts up red-hot and then torqueing them-off not a one snapped, like one did when I began, before I 'brought the heat.'

I hope you were able to get the slave off, I recall someone on-here snapped off a mounting bolt and wasn't able to remove the frozen piece when an e-z-out snapped-off too.

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

Which rubber parts are you referring to, the ones INSIDE the slave cylinder? Seems to me that line is far away enogh from the slave as any heat wouldn't get to it. I'm just trying to separate the rubber line from the fitting that bends and goes down into the slave cylinder.

 

[davesax36]

did you soak it in acetone/atf? I've been using that mix 1:1 recently with good results.

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

did you soak it in acetone/atf? I've been using that mix 1:1 recently with good results.

I shot it with some PB Blaster yesterday. Not sure how I would "soak it" in anything since it's still on the bike! :ummm:

 

[Fire-medic]

Oh, I thought you were referring to where the line goes into the slave.

Any heat to a fitting where a rigid fitting accepts the end of a rubber hose where you have to use significant heat is going to need replacement for safety's sake, in my opinion. At-least you can re-use the rigid line if the fitting isn't ruined by opening the coupling. You don't want that line to burst under pressure from being exposed to heat, and you lose the ability to release the clutch. A case like that, it's just a result of saving your butt from being hurt, or the next person's butt, and your financial standing.

If you sold that bike to someone and the hose burst, an attorney could come-after you as the last owner, even if it would be difficult to prove that you weakened the hose through your period of ownership. Defense can be very costly, in the tens of thousands of dollars, just for a defense representation, and without a judgment against you. Then there is the judgment itself.

If you use heat, I'd replace the hose for peace-of-mind. (and safety of finances). The shop where I go makes its own lines.

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

Fire, I'm replacing the ENTIRE LINE! I just can't get the old one off where I want to get it off, between the 10 mm hard line fitting down by the slave and the hose. It would be alot easier to take it off at that connection point, which is easily accessible and in plain view, than having to take the cover off the side of the motor to get to the slave cylinder, to take it off there. Even if I take it off there, I'm still going to have to disconnect the line because the new one I have is the line only, it doesn't have the hard line coming out from the slave attached to it.

 

[one2dmax]

Vice grip the small 10mm end and wrench on the large one. Should leave the small end intact enough for future use in the new line. Worst case you take off the mid gear cover and take the steel 90 degree line off with the rubber (it bolts into the slave under that cover). Then get a new 90 degree line.

 

[Fire-medic]

Three tools that have gotten me out of numerous problems are Vise-Grips and a Dremel w/an ass't of ends, and an impact hammer/driver.

An oxy/acetylene torch is the 'last-resort' one.

 

[Traumahawk]

Do you have a flare wrench for the end of the clutch line? Ive used them in the past with great success.

 

[Fire-medic]

Do you have a flare wrench for the end of the clutch line? Ive used them in the past with great success.

Yep, always my first choice for working on hydraulic fittings, a flare-nut wrench. Actually, a pair.

 

[one2dmax]

Even the flare nut wrench will roll around these fittings since they are so soft. I use the vice grips BEFORE it's all rounded out and then I can go back to the regular wrench once they are cracked loose.

Sean