Clutch: Master, slave or stuck disks?

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desert_max

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Well, I usually like to be the guy who answers technical questions rather than asks them, but I’m secure enough in my masculinity to know when to ask I Vmax experts. The Vmax is a different beast. Here’s why.

Among the many issues with my ‘86 when I got it was zero clutch. There was no hydraulic action at all. The spooge hole was plugged, and so I introduced new fluid and bled the system down. It now seems as though there’s a reasonable lever resistance and there appears to be some hydraulic action, but the clutch is not releasing. Given that there’s no Visible means of verifying clutch pack movement, how can I quickly determine whether or not the disks might not be frozen together as opposed to a real hydraulic problem?
 
Easy enough to pull the clutch cover off and take a peek.....with the bike on the sidestand you won't even lose any oil.
 
If it runs, front brake on & dropping it into gear should free-up the clutch pack, if they're stuck-together. OEM friction discs for me. You do have oil in the window, yes?

I'd pull the left side cover, and remove the slave cylinder, one that-old is probably filled with crystallized brake fluid, w/a crusty piston, sticking, which would explain the lack of full movement. The piston won't fully retract, nor fully-release the clutch pack. You probably can clean everything and restore its function when it's bled and back installed. I'd blow-out the lines too.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

VMax clutch slave cyl.01.jpg
 
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1862CD64-85F3-4C48-8890-394B21F54A2B.jpeg Thanks. Clutch work is definitely in the queue. After carbs, Vboost servo, ignition sorting and fork seals. Bike currently looks like this:
 
If you look in the hardware store, Home Depot, Menard's Lowe's, etc, for PVC 'knock-out' plugs, used in plumbing, you can get cheap caps which will friction-fit perfectly into the VBoost to carb rubber donuts. Much-better than a dirty shop rag! Probably less-than a bottle of Gatorade at the Home Depot checkout line refrigerator, for four of-em.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Inset-Plastic-DWV-Test-Cap-with-Knock-Out-39100/100132303

Sorry to-see someone butchered your wire harness.
yellow-oatey-pvc-fittings-39100-64_1000.jpg
VMax wire harness cut wires (2).jpg
 
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Not sure what you're seeing, but this harness is virgin as the driven snow. PO didnt change or mod anything on this bike.

Thanks for the tip on plugs. Been a rag stuffer forever.
 
Not sure what you're seeing, but this harness is virgin as the driven snow. PO didnt change or mod anything on this bike.

Thanks for the tip on plugs. Been a rag stuffer forever.

OK, now I see that the nylon plug is poorly-defined in your pic, its shape is washed-out and blends-into the background. The female connector appeared to me to be cut-off.

Don't forget to do the 'crimp-fix' solder-job by the battery.
 
CA2C84D4-8D83-44E8-9CA7-71C1C66075F2.jpeg And the answer is:

Stuck plates. Bike was idle for a while and the friction and metal discs decided they liked each other a little too much. All fluids appear fresh. Even the oil I drained out was clear as honey. Things are coming together. Might even get it done before the mean season (Arizona summer) arrives.

I need to learn how to manufacture time. What a precious commodity…
 
Usually just putting the front brake on, and putting it in-gear, will 'shock' the friction discs and 'steelies' loose. I also encountered a similar problem with aftermarket friction discs from Barnett on my 'widowmaker' Kawasaki 500 Blue Streak two-stroke triple cyl. I would always have to 'cover' the front brake lever when I started the bike in neutral, and then put it in gear, for the first time of the day. The bike would always lurch-forward, because of the sticking discs, it happened overnight. I could usually ride the remainder of the day without it happening again, but I always used the front brake when kicking it into gear, just in-case.
 
You didn't have any-other issue? That's good. Since this is I believe a 'new-to-you' bike, you might want to see if those are aftermarket discs, as that could be your problem. I like the OEM Yamaha discs. Have you replaced the innermost half-width friction disc, and removed the spring-steel band? The parts which act like a slipper clutch, easing downshifts.
 
I didn’t have the option to drop it into gear with motor running. Carbs are still off. Multiple parallel repairs going on. A few years ago, OK a few decades, I had a ‘71 Bonneville that the clutches stuck on every single winter. What goes around comes around I guess.

I just wanted to provide closure for this thread and I’m also getting a little giddy finally seeing some progress. After a flurry of activity, I’m getting really close to buttoning this thing up and taking a maiden voyage.
 

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