Clutch slave cylinder replacement

[stevenwoodard10]

So there i was...I replaced the Slave cylinder last night and it was giving me quite the time trying to bleed the clutch line...I had a harbor freight brake bleed kit and for some reason unknown to me it kept pulling in outside air.

I slept on it over night and realized that my bike is a little over 36 years old and just maybe I wasn't the only one with issues bleeding the line over the past few decades. i found this article and never heard of reverse bleeding before this. I went to Advance Auto to see what they had for options on a syringe type of brake bleeder. their only option was a 1/2 quart syringe Brake Bleed Kit. put about half the little bottle of brake fluid in the syringe. haha. and proceeded the way you instructed. It worked like a champ!

thank you fire medic for posting this one. don't think ill do it another way if ever in need.

 

[Fire-medic]

Your local supermarket has the 'flavor injector' syringe in the meat market section. Cut-off the tip used to fasten the needle you'd use injecting brine into the meat. Drill out the remaining stub, buy at the auto parts store a threaded schrader valve, and buy a couple of flat, rubber fender washers and the same in steel fender washers, sized to fit into the syringe (one, please) and the second metal flat washer on the outside, so you are sandwiching the rubber flat washers on either side of the end of the syringe. They are compressed by the metal flat washers to prevent leaks. You may need to drill-out the metal washers to fit the metal threaded (externally) schrader valve. Remove the internal valve stem, you do not use it. Slip over the metal valve stem a 4" length of clear plastic hose. Use a hose clamp on it if it doesn't seal well on its own. You may use another hose clamp on the clear plastic tube to caliper bleeder valve, if the tubing leaks when you try to use the plunger. I push the plastic hose onto the caliper bleeder valve with DOT 3 or 4 (DOT 5.1 also works) right up to the end of the hose. You want to inject brake fluid, not air. Push the plunger so the tubing is full before pushing the tubing onto the bleeder nipple. Using the syringe, a slow, steady pressure on the plunger helps to prevent leakage and mess. I keep paper towels and some spray solvent handy to remove spills/drips anywhere the brake fluid leaks.

Now you have a tool for reverse-bleeding.

I rinse the syringe thoroughly, disassembling it. Pull-out the plunger and rinse it and the rubber as well as the syringe. Some plastics and rubbers may not withstand the brake fluid, if it's put-up 'wet' and not rinsed-off. The one I'm currently using is probably about 10 years old.

 

[Dansmaxresto]

I used the Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder hooked to the slave cylinder and it worked great

 

[Fire-medic]

Whatever works for you. I have a Mityvac that has to be probably 40 years old, and one from a tool truck, still in the box, unopened or used. The old Mityvac has been rebuilt a few times. Once I found the syringe works better and quicker for me than the Mityvac, it now just sits (the Mityvac).

I found the Mityvac works better using teflon tape on the bleeder to stop pulling air past the threads.

Many people like 'Speed Bleeders.' I've never used 'em, but people who do, like the results.

 

[02GF74]

And for those who cannot get hold of replacement cylinder so are replacing the internals using a kit, just checking the seal is the correct way round? (as removed from cylinder)

 

[Dkid]

AWSOME Write up!! DMN. Thanks Fire-medic.. Wow.

 

[02GF74]

The seal is the correct way round. firstly it looks very much like I am the first person to overhaul the clutch slave, I checked the service manual but the diagram is not great and lastly found a video of someone overhauling slave that when pausing the video, could just make out the direction of the lip.

My doubts arose as I have seen arrangements where the seal lip facing the other way. Since the seal is not solid, then the hydraulic fluid can get behind the lip to force it against the bore ensuring it is tight. Likewise when the push rod pushes back, the fluid will do the same.

 

[bill1962]

is there a heavy duty

MAX 1200 Clutch slave cylinder replacement​

 

[JoshR]

I am about to order the parts to replace my clutch slave cylinder. I haven't seen a full list put together so I am putting this up here from what I have gathered reading this thread and watching some videos. Can anyone think of anything I am missing before I order that I should add to the parts list?

************************************************************************************************
Push Lever Comp
Yamaha
item: 1FK-16381-11-00
Clutch Slave cylinder
************************************************************************************************
Gasket, Crankcase Cover 2
Yamaha
item: 3JP-15461-01-00
Gasket for Middle Drive Gear Cover
************************************************************************************************
Washer, Plate
Yamaha
item: 90201-10118-00
Crush washer gaskets for both sides of bolt for Clutch 1 pipe
************************************************************************************************
.Gasket
Yamaha
item: 90430-06014-00
Crush washer gasket for bottom bolt on Middle Drive Gear Cover
************************************************************************************************
Gasket
Yamaha
item: 90430-10148-00
Crush washer gasket for extension collar on the end of slave cylinder
************************************************************************************************
Oil Seal
Yamaha
item: 93109-08061-00
Oil Seal for Slave Cylinder Clutch Push Rod Seal
************************************************************************************************
Thanks,

Josh

 

[02GF74]

That looks about right, but whilst you are in there, replace the seal for the push rod. It's a bitch to get out - I wrote about how I did it with a photo of the home made extractor tool. Search the forum as I recall there are some useful tips.

Copper crush washers can be reused by annealing = heat on a stove until ref hot then drop into cold water.

If the cover gasket is not black, paint the edges of it so it blends in with the engine casings (my gasket was bright blue - yuk)

 

[JoshR]

That looks about right, but whilst you are in there, replace the seal for the push rod. It's a bitch to get out - I wrote about how I did it with a photo of the home made extractor tool. Search the forum as I recall there are some useful tips.

Copper crush washers can be reused by annealing = heat on a stove until ref hot then drop into cold water.

If the cover gasket is not black, paint the edges of it so it blends in with the engine casings (my gasket was bright blue - yuk)

Thanks 02GF47! Are you referring to this part?

GUIDE, PUSH ROD​

26H-Y1639-00-00​

Yamaha

 

[JoshR]

That looks about right, but whilst you are in there, replace the seal for the push rod. It's a bitch to get out - I wrote about how I did it with a photo of the home made extractor tool. Search the forum as I recall there are some useful tips.

Copper crush washers can be reused by annealing = heat on a stove until ref hot then drop into cold water.

If the cover gasket is not black, paint the edges of it so it blends in with the engine casings (my gasket was bright blue - yuk)

Ok after looking closer I believe you are talking about the oil seal in my list. I updated the description, and it would be part number 23 in the pic.
Oil Seal
Yamaha
item: 93109-08061-00

Thanks again!

 

[02GF74]

I have to say it does look more like part 23 but I will defer to the more knowledgeable folks on here confirm,

post 13,442 in here shows what it looks like once removed (the seal came as part of my kit) https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-vmax-today-part-2.8470/page-673

And the contents of my kit to show what a new one should look like : bottom left corner (the other stuff fits to the slave)
Its about 3./4 in in diameter, metal body with rubber on the outside. Put it over the push rod to centre it then tap it in using a socket that fits over the push rod.

As I mentioned above, it may not be necessary to replace it, but I thought since I have the replacement and am unlikely to get in the part of the negine again, I may as well do it. Once you decide to replace it, you are committed as it gets destroyed in the removal process..... a bit worrying when you find it ain't coming out ... hence the photo of my DIY remover.

 

[JoshR]

Thanks 02GF74!