Clutch, what's normal?

[SmallCityDave]

Hey guys I'm new to the forum, last week I bought a 2006 Vmax with 22k miles.

The bike has a real hard time going into neutral when it's running but I have no issues shifting gears & I have a 1/2 of an inch play in my clutch lever is that normal or is there an adjustment I can make?

When I'm riding it's great it doesn't slip at all and I don't see these as issues today but is this a sign of a clutch that's going out?

 

[Fire-medic]

What's the fluid level? What color is it? If you have opaque brake fluid, it's time to change it. My suggestion is to do a reverse-bleed of the clutch. You push fresh brake fluid in from the clutch slave cylinder bleeder nipple. This requires you to remove the old fluid as you introduce new fluid. I'm sure you know, brake fluid is very corrosive, and it will ruin the paint on anything it stay's on very long. You can use DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 interchangeably, they are all compatible mineral-based fluids. DOT 5 is silicone-based and is not compatible with any of the DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 fluids.

Problems with air in the lines can mean excessive lever travel, a difficult time getting the clutch to disengage, or a not-functioning clutch. Brake fluid dripping off the ball end of the lever is an external master cylinder leak. You can also have an internal master cylinder leak, where the piston seals aren't pushing fluid like they should, but there is no external leakage.

The slave cylinder can also leak, look for spotting under the bike on the left side in the middle of the engine, from front to back.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/reverse-bleeding-clutch.47305/#post-472105

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

 

[SmallCityDave]

Great information I'll give that a shot!

 

[MaxMidnight]

As it is a hydraulic clutch it is self adjusting so no, there isn't any adjustment.

Finding neutral is an art that many of us never master so you are not alone.
If all else has failed the shifting to neutral before the bike has stopped rolling normally works.

Does the clutch drag when stationary and in neutral?
If not then it is working OK.
You say it doesn't slip which would indicate that the plates are still within the service limit.

Some free play in the lever is normal but any wear in the pivot will increase this.

Whilst probably not a causal factor, unless you know when the fluid was last changed then doing so would be a good idea; while you are at it you could also do the brakes as well.
Once done tie the lever(s) back overnight which should remove any remaining air.

A few of things to check:
i) Make sure the gear change linkage is free and fitted correctly - the dot on the end of the gear selector shaft should be adjacent to the 'split' in the linkage.
ii) Don't have the tick-over set too high. From experience the slower end of the specification is better.
iii) Check the lever pivot for excess play. If any found then fit a bush or if you feel particularly adventurous convert to a bearing.

 

[02GF74]

is the play due to wear in the clutch lever itself? mine has gone wobbly due to the hole becoming ovalized; I have a fix in the pipeline - also mine needed bleeding as there was resistant in maybe the last 1/5 of travel.