Copper crush washer alternate source for brakes

[dingy]

I just bought a pack of 25, 10mm copper crush washers from McMaster Carr.

Cost was $7.61 + $4.39 shipping, total of $12.00.

McMaster P/N is 97725A200 for 25.

If you are going to do brake work and remove the lines, these should be replaced.

The items I received looked identical to what is used on bike.

Prices comes out to $0.48 each including shipping.

The price at partshark.com was $1.38 each + shipping.

Yamaha price is $1.98 each


Yamaha P/N Washer,Plate - 90201-10118-00

Gary

 

[Redbone]

That's a great find Gary, I don't like reusing them either. I spent a ton getting my clutch slave , all three master cylinders, and front calipers set up!
My front calipers probably chewed up 12 washers trying to get it bled properly!:bang head:

 

[gamorg02]

awesome info!

infact i stickied it!

 

[1st Shirt Maxer]

Just ordered my washers, and they ship to Guam...

 

[dannymax]

Missed this one, think I'll grab a bag of them just to have, Mc-Carr is a great outfit to deal with too....I get overnight delivery from them!

Is there any reason we can't use copper crush washers on the oil & diff drain bolts....if they have them? :confused2:

 

[[email protected]]

Missed this one, think I'll grab a bag of them just to have, Mc-Carr is a great outfit to deal with too....I get overnight delivery from them!

Is there any reason we can't use copper crush washers on the oil & diff drain bolts....if they have them? :confused2:

If it holds up to the amount of pressure produced in a braking system I'd say its safe.

On a side note regarding oil leaks... I had a nagging leak on my CR5 right at the drain plug. Careful inspection of the sealing surface on the block did not reveal any issues. New OEM crush washers did not help. Different types of crush washers did not help. Replacing the drain bolt itself fixed the issue right up. The underside of the drain plug bolt head was worn down a bit. I though the crush washer would have made up for any surface irregularities. It seems I was wrong as it has been sitting in my basement for a couple weeks now with no signs of leaks after replacing the bolt and crush washer with new OEM parts.

 

[gamorg02]

If it holds up to the amount of pressure produced in a braking system I'd say its safe.

On a side note regarding oil leaks... I had a nagging leak on my CR5 right at the drain plug. Careful inspection of the sealing surface on the block did not reveal any issues. New OEM crush washers did not help. Different types of crush washers did not help. Replacing the drain bolt itself fixed the issue right up. The underside of the drain plug bolt head was worn down a bit. I though the crush washer would have made up for any surface irregularities. It seems I was wrong as it has been sitting in my basement for a couple weeks now with no signs of leaks after replacing the bolt and crush washer with new OEM parts.

what type of crush washers did you try? i've seen the brass, or ones like our vmax's have and then the one on my hawk oddly enough is steel! not sure how thats a 'crush' washer but hey. and the torque on the bolt is like 40-50 ft lbs IIRC so i dunno. i like the steel ones with the rubber inside.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

If anyone wants to share a pack or care to order 2 packs let me know as they don't ship to me. Thank you

SORTED NOW! Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

what type of crush washers did you try? i've seen the brass, or ones like our vmax's have and then the one on my hawk oddly enough is steel! not sure how thats a 'crush' washer but hey. and the torque on the bolt is like 40-50 ft lbs IIRC so i dunno. i like the steel ones with the rubber inside.

The CR5 OEM washer is thick aluminum. I tried some kind of plastic washer like you get in a transmission drain plug installation kit (old th350s and 400s didn't have plugs, had to drop the pan. But you could buy a kit to install a drain plug) and I picked up a washer with rubber bonded to the ID and that didn't work.

 

[02GF74]

Sometimes you may not have the copper washer to hand, so if you have to reuse, anneal it by heating to red hot then dropping into water.

Apparently tightening the bolt work harden's the washer, annealing softens it so seals better.