Crimp fix done

[Fire-medic]

I hadn't done this yet, so I stripped the plastic tape off the wire loom, exposed the crimp brass, and used a 75-watt soldering iron to do the job. I noticed the crimp was wrapped-with red electrical tape, and then the black tape. So, I re-wrapped it like stock.

First pic is the soldering.

Second pic is what's to be unwrapped to expose the brass crimp, just-below the main fuse block which is part of the rear cylinders coil bracket and electrical components mount. This pic shows the brass crimp in its factory, unsoldered state, in the middle of the pic.

 

[TK3333]

Great minds think alike. I just got done exposing the so called "culprit" to do the same thing. I have it apart to do the clutch, hd oiler & seat among other things so this will get taken care also.

 

[Bill Seward]

Now is a great time to run your regulator output wires directly to the battery. Old style regs with a direct ground? Run a wire from the mounting screw to negative. Use a fuse inline on the positive wire, just in case..

 

[Fire-medic]

Now is a great time to run your regulator output wires directly to the battery. Old style regs with a direct ground? Run a wire from the mounting screw to negative. Use a fuse inline on the positive wire, just in case..

Been thinking about that. Not-done, yet. Thanks for the mention, Bill, and congratulations on your string of months of bike use despite the western NYS winters.

 

[TK3333]

Guess i be gettin into that too.

 

[Bill Seward]

Use a good quality fuse holder, and a 30amp fuse.
One thing I've noticed.. Some fuses are really poorly made, especially the ones you get in those "Fuse Kits" of 200 fuses on EBay... and they don't fit into the fuse holder tightly. This is a time where spending a few extra bucks for good quality stuff pays off. My son rode Zilla to Thunder a few years ago, the main fuse didn't make good contact in the fuse holder, and got hot and partially melted. I bought a good fuse holder from Eastern Beaver, soldered it in, and used good quality fuses. Haven't has a problem since.

 

[sdt354]

Use a good quality fuse holder, and a 30amp fuse.
One thing I've noticed.. Some fuses are really poorly made, especially the ones you get in those "Fuse Kits" of 200 fuses on EBay... and they don't fit into the fuse holder tightly. This is a time where spending a few extra bucks for good quality stuff pays off. My son rode Zilla to Thunder a few years ago, the main fuse didn't make good contact in the fuse holder, and got hot and partially melted. I bought a good fuse holder from Eastern Beaver, soldered it in, and used good quality fuses. Haven't has a problem since.

Eastern Beaver, a good source for electrical type stuff.

 

[TK3333]

Crimp fix was done easily enough. After researching the hows and whys on the "old" style regulator, I realized I have the "new" stye with the fins and no ground at the rear peg. Was this only an issue on the "old" style? I am holding off on this for now anyway. When its back together enough to run the engine i will check the voltage from and go from there.

 

[Bill Seward]

If you have the style regulator with both positive and negative output wires, it would be a simple job to run them directly to the battery. This bypasses a lot of wires and connections that cause resistance. You will then get the maximum benefit of whatever regulator you have..