crimp fix question

[EvilD]

Going to do the crimp fix soon, question is, does it get hot enough with a standard soldering iron to take in solder or do you need a micro torch to heat it up?

 

[tothemax93]

I just did the crimp fix about a month ago. We just used a regular soldering iron, and it sucked it in fine.

 

[4gasem]

I used a propane torch, and put a fire resistant blanket under it so not to burn the surrounding area. It took literally 2 seconds! lol

 

[EvilD]

1 vote for each, probably go with the little micro torch i use for lighting cigars, i'm not a patient person.

 

[OU812]

Did the "crimp" on my 86' along with eliminating the connectors between the stator and the r/r soldering them all, and went from 12.9ish volts @ any rpm to a "wopping" 13.2... Then on my 98' , I didn't do any of that except the "crimp fix" and DIRECTLY wired a "super clean" ground along with a direct pos. from the R/R to the battery, and went from a ok 13.2 - 13.4 to a staggering 13.9 - 14.3... The biggest part of this is the direct clean connections to the battery.
Now when I get back from a blast, I plug the tender in and within a matter of a min. or so, it goes green where as before it would take 15 - 20 min for that...
Just my exp...

 

[naughtyG]

I used the old bakelite gun type soldering iron when I did mine - helluva lot more powerful than your standard RS fare..

 

[EvilD]

I was going to do it today, but the volt meter read 13.8 at idle. Either it was already done, or it isn't that bad.

 

[Rhoy Carter]

When i looked at mine the crimp did not have any corrosion on it so i justn used liquid elect tape and sealed it good and with a late model r/r im getting 14 volts

 

[Elimax]

Questions for OU812:

1) You say a "super clean ground"...is this a ground from the r/r, and where did you ground it to?

2) So I really should send positive wire from r/r directly to positive post on battery?

I ask because I'm having recharge issues myself, and I'm hoping to rectify the system before I start just throwing money at it.

Thank you!

Elimax

 

[Elimax]

Yet another question:

Is there anything in the service manual that shows a testing sequence for the r/r?

Thanks again.

Elimax

 

[naughtyG]

Eli, check this thread: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=11926

Last post has the service manual page you're after.

Also remember you can download the whole service manual for free from www.vmaxoutlaw.com

 

[OU812]

Assuming your R/R and stator are good, I learned from the good peoples on this site that it is all in the resistance of the connections. Yes. I ran a set of pos.+ & neg.- straight from the R/R to the batt. Jump into the pos.+(red) anywhere before any of the stock connections, plugs, etc. use a crimp and "solder" it. Then I removed the R/R and cleaned the mounting surface of the unit itself and where it mounts to the left rear passenger peg ass. AND ALL of the the posts and surfaces that that unit bolts to on the frame of the bike as that IS the natural ground stock. Then ran a ground (black) from one of the R/R mounting bolts, (which I changed to stainless allen head, why ? ) directly to the batt. , and instantly<<< fixed my prob... try it... easy fixes...

 

[Elimax]

Cool, OU812.

You said "jump into the pos.+(red) anywhere before any of the stock connections, plugs, etc. use a crimp and "solder" it"

.....so does the pos.+ from r/r still GO to those connections, plugs, etc., but there' an offshoot wire to the pos.+ of the battery?

....or should I REMOVE the pos.+ wire to those connections, plugs etc. and instead just make one straight wire from r/r to battery?

Thanks for being patient with me...as you can tell, I am a nerd!

Elimax

 

[richwrench]

Don't mean to barge in - IMHO overlay a wire in addition to the original wire - the whole purpose is to increase current flow (volume). just my 2 cents...

 

[OU812]

Yup. There is threads all over this site becouse it is a commen problem... :bang head: Easy fix...:thumbs up:

 

[Elimax]

Thanks, OU812.

I'll pick one of the two options I mentioned, and hope it works.

Elimax

 

[Elimax]

Well, I picked my 2nd option listed in my one of my above posts....I removed the positive (red) oem connections, and sent it right to the positive post on the battery, but then my indictaors flashed EXTREMELY quickly, so I'll go with my other option instead.

Elimax

 

[OU812]

Sorry bro... I was away for a spell...
The connections I talk of are these:
Loacte the RED wire coming from the r/r and do a solderable crimp into that wire BEFORE it joins any other connection, heatshrink when done, there are many along its way, and connect it to the POS. side of the batt.
Then, I removed the r/r and cleaned and sanded down to bare metal all points where the r/r mounts to the peg mount AS WELL as where the peg mounts to the bike main frame as this IS the ground itself, then ran a nice HEAVY ground from one of the mounting screws of the r/r DIRECTLY to the batt.
Providing your stator & R/R are functioning properly, this is the best known fix as far as I'm concerned. I've batteled this problem for , oh since 1986 till' about 2 mths. ago and it worked for me. :eusa_dance:Owe it all to this website...

 

[Fire-medic]

An old thread, but any time you wire directly from the battery you better fuse that wire as close to the positive terminal as you can get it, or you can burn up your bike in event of a short circuit on it. I use a Weller dual heat gun style solder. iron & it heats quickly. Make sure things are clean beforehand, I said, 'clean!' try some liquid flux, it helps greatly.