I am curently bidding on the 1 on Ebay,...what (mod's) did you do ?...relay,...HID harness ,...?
What I have is an individual circuit straight from the battery fused at 30 amps, it goes thru a cutoff switch on the plastic by the steering neck and then feeds a relay that powers the the headlights, both of them at the same time.
That relay is turned on and off by the high beam switch, so putting it in high beam turns both of them on, which is how I run 100% of the time. They are wired in parrallel, the two white wires from the light modules are hooked together and go to the "load" side of the relay, the other side of each bulb is a common ground connection throught the metal bulb housing.
This set up makes sure I'm getting the best power possible to the lights without any voltage drops, I soldered all the connections after splicing them or in the case of the relay using spade connectors.
I also ran a ground wire from the bulb housings to a common ground point rather than using the mounting points and steering neck, bearings etc as a ground path....
In order to get more light out of them I changed the bulbs out from 55 watts to 100 watts each,...
These are coomon H3 or H4 bulbs available at any auto parts store, although the 100 watt bulbs are sometimes hard but not impossible to find...
They are quartz bulbs and run really hot, make sure they are extremely clean before assembling them or they will break due to thermal shock even from skin oil alone.....
The original exactrep setup uses a diode between the two bulbs to prevent back feeding the second bulb when it's on low beam, this is needed because the exactrep lights use a ground reference for the bulb that's part of the headlight module and it's impossible to get rid of this reference due to how they are made,
An ordinary high beam low beam setup isn't like that.......
In the original configuration the way exactrep sold it the diode failed and I couldn't find another one like it because it's a huge hockey puck looking diode due to the power requirements.......
In order to have a low beam to be able to pass inspection I added a second switch on the neck to interrupt power to the second light right before it gets to the light but after the connection from the relay that turns them both on.....
It sounds complicated but really isn't that bad.
I'm a pretty decent electrician and for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get the factory high beam low beam switch to do this job without using several relays or a 30 amp relay with multiple contacts in it including some normally closed ones which is also very hard to find....
If someone wants to really see how I did this, and actually needs it, I can draw it out and scan and post it, I was going to do a quick one in paint but I can't even find that program on my computer, do they still put them on pc's these days....
I will say that even with all this trouble I went to the light output is no where near as good as stock as far as the pattern it throws on the road.
The light modules exactrep is using are basically small driving lights with a very short focal distance between the bulb and the thick convex lens, ......
They DO create extremely bright pinpoints of light that will for sure be seen by other drivers even in the daytime, they just don't throw a good pattern on the road.
With 2 100 watt bulbs I have experienced no problems with my electrical system, and it makes a solid 13.2-13.4 volts even at idle, but then again my electrical system is in tip top shape, a poor elect system may not be able to handle this...
Rusty