Keep the stock set up,,the only difference you realize is a fatter wallet!LOL.
Hard to read dry humor I guess.
If "everybody" is exaggerating to sell their product and "everyone" wants their product to look better then it really doesn't matter who you listen to, does it? Because in the end, "everybody" is doing it.
Seems to me that if you dyno’d a stock vmax then corrected the factory rich jetting then set the af properly and exaggerated a bit you might see those numbers.
That's something I've struggled with for a while now. Part of me wants better sound but the other part of me is a traditionalist. The only change I've made on my '07 since I bought it new is the oil, tires, oil filter, air filter, battery and spark plugs.Keep the stock set up,,the only difference you realize is a fatter wallet!
From what i can gather blower engines don't need merged collectors or benefit from scavenging effectSpeaking of exhausts, and the designs, I'm very-concerned that this driver isn't getting the full-benefit of a properly-tuned exhaust. Those 1950's/'60's 'zoomie' exhausts cannot allow his truck to make the most out of properly-tuned exhausts!
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I had a '61 Econoline pick-up, almost exactly-like this-one. The paint was different.
Without looking into it in some research paper, I don't know why that would be the case, as all a turbo or a supercharger does is pack more air fuel mixture in. As far as I can understand it, helping things get out would be of benefit whether it is normally aspirated or forced induction. It seems that helping it go in with forced induction the Scavenging effect would be of even more potential benefit on the exhaust side. For instance I don't recall seeing a Zoomie exhaust coming out of the rocker panels of any cars that use forced induction stock from the factory. As far as I can see from looking at pictures of the engine and the exhaust, they still have tuned exhausts.From what i can gather blower engines don't need merged collectors or benefit from scavenging effect
That's something I've struggled with for a while now. Part of me wants better sound but the other part of me is a traditionalist. The only change I've made on my '07 since I bought it new is the oil, tires, oil filter, air filter, battery and spark plugs.
Everything else is factory and in mint condition. She's never spent a night outside.
You misplaced a decimal. Six-point-two K RPM's is likely what you meant. I assume that you are taking that to-be the 'starting point' for the VBoost operation.Hi all, I have was down this exhaust road shorty after the purchase of my new 2000 and it is daunting. In my opinion based upon working on chevy 356 making 1000+ hp. Vmax engines are somewhat factory detuned but I've found not much just from my seat of the pants feel. All are correct that there many factors that can affect a dyno sheet so I would suggest you look to the majority of advice from members of this site to make a purchase decision. Small changes like only an exhaust can affect other systems that can make better or worse results. In theory a less restrictive exhaust evacuates more spent gases but that is only better if more gas/air can be supplied. Keep in mind any engine is an air pump and combustion efficiency is key. Also keep in mind how you ride. Most performance gains are seen at higher rpm's. If you don't go to boost on a regular drive then any modifications are just a preference. I have a Holeshot, stage 1 jets, and dynajet ignition. It was worse than stock until I put 4 degrees of advance in timing. Idle is poor on hot humid days but the cool spring and fall days 62k is living. IMO o buy the way if plan on going over 120 mph you should look into suspension and frame upgrades, speed has a price. I have braced swing arm, frame connectors, 17 PVM wheels on, Metzeler's. Our stock Vmax's are a well tuned system consider your improvements wisely.
You misplaced a decimal. Six-point-two K RPM's is likely what you meant. I assume that you are taking that to-be the 'starting point' for the VBoost operation.
What 'Stage 1 jets' from whose kit, are you using? Specifically. Sounds like you may have some HP waiting for better jetting to be unleashed, as the Dynojet Stage 1 jet kit has been a repeated disappointment to purchasers. If you're working on a dyno, with an exhaust sniffer, you should be able to make things work, and have made those adjustments. Seeing as you're not at Rocky Mountain heights (5280+ ft) then a size or two smaller on the main jet should get you leaned-out a bit, for more power. For instance Mt. Pleasant MI is 771 ft above sea level. Remember that the Dynojet #'s are higher numerically to an equivalent Mikuni value, there are numerous threads here about it, the search function is your friend, to find the comparison chart.
I agree with the radial tires making a handling difference, I've posted many-times that I believe the #1 change best befitting the VMax is to fit properly-sized radial tires. However, in extended-duration top speed runs, I've seen a stock bike pass on top-end a 'hot-rod' VMax because the 17" wheels/tires lop-off so-much on the top end terminal speed. My friend who's built all-sorts of high-HP VMaxes (supercharged, turbocharged, big-bore, NOS, and 'mix & match') has had this conversation with Jon Cornell, after guys called him (UFO-Cornell) complaining they just were beaten with their UFO parts bikes in a top-end contest by a stock bike. Sure, they got to redline in 5th gear quicker, but the several-inches less wheel/tire height cost them in top-speed.
Lining up the floats to the casting circle is a good staring point, and reference. It will get you close and usually between 15 to 17 mm. But, a wet check must be done to verify the true float level. It sounds like splitting hairs, but it's a necessary and time consuming action. Well worth the results.There was a thread I followed when I rebuilt mine. It had said to put the float levels to right where that little circle is on the body. All of mine had been above that, so I put them to that level.
Bike runs better than factory I think, but I use a bit more gas. I used to hit between 95 and 100 miles before the gas light came on. Now it turns on about 90 to 95.
Mine has never bene dyno'd though so I have no idea if it actually picked up any power. It just feels better.
Yep. As a teenager I started playing with Dodge muscle cars. If you can a 1/2, 9/16, and 5/8 wrench you could take 3/4 of the car apart. If panels or what ever were 1/2 an inch off, no big deal. Japanese motorcycles taught me that you can be 1 mm off, and completely out of spec.Lining up the floats to the casting circle is a good staring point, and reference. It will get you close and usually between 15 to 17 mm. But, a wet check must be done to verify the true float level. It sounds like splitting hairs, but it's a necessary and time consuming action. Well worth the results.
I still have one of them on my Luv Truck but am fixing to take it off & put fuel injection onI miss the old Holley carbs. You pulled the site plug on the side and adjusted the float with the motor running to where it would just trickle out when you bumped the fender with your hip.
I miss the good old days.