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Difference between aftermarket exhausts

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Julian Tomkins

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my bike could possibly make 150hp with lots of money and work but it would make no difference to me, I never go full throttle as my wrist doesn't move enough to open it fully, but what it can do is just great by me, maybe I only ever tap into an occasional 90hp but I don't care, I'm happy :cool:
 

SDB

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I'm not thin skinned and don't get easily offended... So block away... Lom

I know a bit about dynos and selling and track times and repeatability/consistently, and bullshit claims.

I think Dale's exhaust looks and sounds fantastic... But like most people selling a product they tend to fudge things for $. I had. Lingenfelter vette... John's own personal car... And my car along with a 605 cu in bik block vette were used to create the BF GOODRICH DRAG Radial tires. We went to a rented track and tested several sets of tires with John driving... We collected a ton of data same day 2 cars back to back runs cars cooled in between air twmp/humidity/elevation recorded track surface temp recorded tire team before and after run recorded etc.

That's how you prove which compound of tire works the best... And a built 383 (my car) and a monster torque 605 cube car show how tires respond to power.

I'm saying what obviously everyone knows (well at least if your not gullible enough to believe bullshit manipulated dyno claims) slip ons don't make power just noise. Must have been the guy to buy a chip and filter back in the day for your IROC and told everyone you had 65 more hp lol
 

VMAXXIMUM

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Earlier I made a reference to you and unfortunately mixed up the order of your letters. I typed SBD rather than SDB. Sorry about that. Your questions and skepticism were right on.
 
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one2dmax

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Everything he was saying was accurate. That is why my posts got into the depth it did. I see nearly every manufacturer claim THEY have the magic dust or bestest product that makes the mostest power. It's a bit old and some people are on to them.

As I mentioned we gained 27 hp one day by simply swapping exhausts. We could easily post up the dyno numbers and hide the A/F ratio charts and show a gigantic gain for Kerker but that would not be completely honest. It was true but misleading. This is how many intentionally or unintentionally present their products. I have no idea on Dales setup but he did not even achieve the average power output of 110-112 with his slip-ons. Over and over again that's the power range we see for a 100% stock bike.

I would highly suggest you NOT use the circles to set your floats with. That is a "reference" to get you "in the ballpark". You MUST measure them either wet or dry (or both). Your 90-100 miles to the tank if done on a consistent cruising RPM (not just in town driving) is way low telling me you are likely excessively rich. If you have the stock needles it's likely due to the float settings being rich. You should be seeing 115-120 miles before the light.
 

one2dmax

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Another side note. I sell MANY variations of exhaust systems. I would challenge you to find any emails or quotes from me (at least within the last decade) that ever had me say that slip-ons every made more power then stock or that any FULL system made more power over any other FULL system. Including the Muscle Marks we have of ours.
 

ouchez

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LOL.

Hard to read dry humor I guess.

If "everybody" is exaggerating to sell their product and "everyone" wants their product to look better then it really doesn't matter who you listen to, does it? Because in the end, "everybody" is doing it.
Keep the stock set up,,the only difference you realize is a fatter wallet! :)
Seems to me that if you dyno’d a stock vmax then corrected the factory rich jetting then set the af properly and exaggerated a bit you might see those numbers.
 

Fire-medic

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Speaking of exhausts, and the designs, I'm very-concerned that this driver isn't getting the full-benefit of a properly-tuned exhaust. Those 1950's/'60's 'zoomie' exhausts cannot allow his truck to make the most out of properly-tuned exhausts!

Ford Econoline 1962 4-4.6L supercharged engines.jpg

I had a '61 Econoline pick-up, almost exactly-like this-one. The paint was different.
 

Parminio

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Keep the stock set up,,the only difference you realize is a fatter wallet! :)
That's something I've struggled with for a while now. Part of me wants better sound but the other part of me is a traditionalist. The only change I've made on my '07 since I bought it new is the oil, tires, oil filter, air filter, battery and spark plugs.

Everything else is factory and in mint condition. She's never spent a night outside.
 

Lunatic

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Speaking of exhausts, and the designs, I'm very-concerned that this driver isn't getting the full-benefit of a properly-tuned exhaust. Those 1950's/'60's 'zoomie' exhausts cannot allow his truck to make the most out of properly-tuned exhausts!

View attachment 73575

I had a '61 Econoline pick-up, almost exactly-like this-one. The paint was different.
From what i can gather blower engines don't need merged collectors or benefit from scavenging effect
 

Fire-medic

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From what i can gather blower engines don't need merged collectors or benefit from scavenging effect
Without looking into it in some research paper, I don't know why that would be the case, as all a turbo or a supercharger does is pack more air fuel mixture in. As far as I can understand it, helping things get out would be of benefit whether it is normally aspirated or forced induction. It seems that helping it go in with forced induction the Scavenging effect would be of even more potential benefit on the exhaust side. For instance I don't recall seeing a Zoomie exhaust coming out of the rocker panels of any cars that use forced induction stock from the factory. As far as I can see from looking at pictures of the engine and the exhaust, they still have tuned exhausts.
 

y2k6200!

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Hi all, I have was down this exhaust road shorty after the purchase of my new 2000 and it is daunting. In my opinion based upon working on chevy 356 making 1000+ hp. Vmax engines are somewhat factory detuned but I've found not much just from my seat of the pants feel. All are correct that there many factors that can affect a dyno sheet so I would suggest you look to the majority of advice from members of this site to make a purchase decision. Small changes like only an exhaust can affect other systems that can make better or worse results. In theory a less restrictive exhaust evacuates more spent gases but that is only better if more gas/air can be supplied. Keep in mind any engine is an air pump and combustion efficiency is key. Also keep in mind how you ride. Most performance gains are seen at higher rpm's. If you don't go to boost on a regular drive then any modifications are just a preference. I have a Holeshot, stage 1 jets, and dynajet ignition. It was worse than stock until I put 4 degrees of advance in timing. Idle is poor on hot humid days but the cool spring and fall days 62k is living. IMO o buy the way if plan on going over 120 mph you should look into suspension and frame upgrades, speed has a price. I have braced swing arm, frame connectors, 17 PVM wheels on, Metzeler's. Our stock Vmax's are a well tuned system consider your improvements wisely.
 

ouchez

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That's something I've struggled with for a while now. Part of me wants better sound but the other part of me is a traditionalist. The only change I've made on my '07 since I bought it new is the oil, tires, oil filter, air filter, battery and spark plugs.

Everything else is factory and in mint condition. She's never spent a night outside.
 

Fire-medic

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Hi all, I have was down this exhaust road shorty after the purchase of my new 2000 and it is daunting. In my opinion based upon working on chevy 356 making 1000+ hp. Vmax engines are somewhat factory detuned but I've found not much just from my seat of the pants feel. All are correct that there many factors that can affect a dyno sheet so I would suggest you look to the majority of advice from members of this site to make a purchase decision. Small changes like only an exhaust can affect other systems that can make better or worse results. In theory a less restrictive exhaust evacuates more spent gases but that is only better if more gas/air can be supplied. Keep in mind any engine is an air pump and combustion efficiency is key. Also keep in mind how you ride. Most performance gains are seen at higher rpm's. If you don't go to boost on a regular drive then any modifications are just a preference. I have a Holeshot, stage 1 jets, and dynajet ignition. It was worse than stock until I put 4 degrees of advance in timing. Idle is poor on hot humid days but the cool spring and fall days 62k is living. IMO o buy the way if plan on going over 120 mph you should look into suspension and frame upgrades, speed has a price. I have braced swing arm, frame connectors, 17 PVM wheels on, Metzeler's. Our stock Vmax's are a well tuned system consider your improvements wisely.
You misplaced a decimal. Six-point-two K RPM's is likely what you meant. I assume that you are taking that to-be the 'starting point' for the VBoost operation.

What 'Stage 1 jets' from whose kit, are you using? Specifically. Sounds like you may have some HP waiting for better jetting to be unleashed, as the Dynojet Stage 1 jet kit has been a repeated disappointment to purchasers. If you're working on a dyno, with an exhaust sniffer, you should be able to make things work, and have made those adjustments. Seeing as you're not at Rocky Mountain heights (5280+ ft) then a size or two smaller on the main jet should get you leaned-out a bit, for more power. For instance Mt. Pleasant MI is 771 ft above sea level. Remember that the Dynojet #'s are higher numerically to an equivalent Mikuni value, there are numerous threads here about it, the search function is your friend, to find the comparison chart.

I agree with the radial tires making a handling difference, I've posted many-times that I believe the #1 change best befitting the VMax is to fit properly-sized radial tires. However, in extended-duration top speed runs, I've seen a stock bike pass on top-end a 'hot-rod' VMax because the 17" wheels/tires lop-off so-much on the top end terminal speed. My friend who's built all-sorts of high-HP VMaxes (supercharged, turbocharged, big-bore, NOS, and 'mix & match') has had this conversation with Jon Cornell, after guys called him (UFO-Cornell) complaining they just were beaten with their UFO parts bikes in a top-end contest by a stock bike. Sure, they got to redline in 5th gear quicker, but the several-inches less wheel/tire height cost them in top-speed.
 

MadMark

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You misplaced a decimal. Six-point-two K RPM's is likely what you meant. I assume that you are taking that to-be the 'starting point' for the VBoost operation.

What 'Stage 1 jets' from whose kit, are you using? Specifically. Sounds like you may have some HP waiting for better jetting to be unleashed, as the Dynojet Stage 1 jet kit has been a repeated disappointment to purchasers. If you're working on a dyno, with an exhaust sniffer, you should be able to make things work, and have made those adjustments. Seeing as you're not at Rocky Mountain heights (5280+ ft) then a size or two smaller on the main jet should get you leaned-out a bit, for more power. For instance Mt. Pleasant MI is 771 ft above sea level. Remember that the Dynojet #'s are higher numerically to an equivalent Mikuni value, there are numerous threads here about it, the search function is your friend, to find the comparison chart.

I agree with the radial tires making a handling difference, I've posted many-times that I believe the #1 change best befitting the VMax is to fit properly-sized radial tires. However, in extended-duration top speed runs, I've seen a stock bike pass on top-end a 'hot-rod' VMax because the 17" wheels/tires lop-off so-much on the top end terminal speed. My friend who's built all-sorts of high-HP VMaxes (supercharged, turbocharged, big-bore, NOS, and 'mix & match') has had this conversation with Jon Cornell, after guys called him (UFO-Cornell) complaining they just were beaten with their UFO parts bikes in a top-end contest by a stock bike. Sure, they got to redline in 5th gear quicker, but the several-inches less wheel/tire height cost them in top-speed.
 

sdt354

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There was a thread I followed when I rebuilt mine. It had said to put the float levels to right where that little circle is on the body. All of mine had been above that, so I put them to that level.

Bike runs better than factory I think, but I use a bit more gas. I used to hit between 95 and 100 miles before the gas light came on. Now it turns on about 90 to 95.

Mine has never bene dyno'd though so I have no idea if it actually picked up any power. It just feels better.
Lining up the floats to the casting circle is a good staring point, and reference. It will get you close and usually between 15 to 17 mm. But, a wet check must be done to verify the true float level. It sounds like splitting hairs, but it's a necessary and time consuming action. Well worth the results.
 

Traumahawk

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Lining up the floats to the casting circle is a good staring point, and reference. It will get you close and usually between 15 to 17 mm. But, a wet check must be done to verify the true float level. It sounds like splitting hairs, but it's a necessary and time consuming action. Well worth the results.
Yep. As a teenager I started playing with Dodge muscle cars. If you can a 1/2, 9/16, and 5/8 wrench you could take 3/4 of the car apart. If panels or what ever were 1/2 an inch off, no big deal. Japanese motorcycles taught me that you can be 1 mm off, and completely out of spec.
 

Parminio

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I miss the old Holley carbs. You pulled the site plug on the side and adjusted the float with the motor running to where it would just trickle out when you bumped the fender with your hip.

So easy.

I miss the good old days.
 

CaptainKyle

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I miss the old Holley carbs. You pulled the site plug on the side and adjusted the float with the motor running to where it would just trickle out when you bumped the fender with your hip.

So easy.

I miss the good old days.
I still have one of them on my Luv Truck but am fixing to take it off & put fuel injection on
 

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