Drag race jerk switch
- Thread starter Chug4life
- Start date
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You clip it to your person, utilize the steel clasp. Lol I’m sorry I had to! I have no electrical skills whatsoever, I’m sure someone will chime in that’s not a smart ass and help you figure it out.
Chug4life
Well-Known Member
Needed the laugh
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Any circuit of the ignition should be able to have it spliced-in. I suspect it's just gonna break continuity in 1 wire when it's pulled-out. One of the wires at the ignition switch providing 12 volts should be able to be used.
Look below, the red wire into the ignition switch is providing power when the switch is on. It runs to the 30 amp main fuse and the battery.
To check its function, set a multimeter to continuity setting, where you hear a steady 'beep' when the two test leads are touching, clip the leads to each side of the cut/stripped red wire, turn-on the ignition switch, (your headlight etc should illuminate, the fuel pump should click, and you should hear the VBoost stepper motor pull and release the cable) and then pull out the switch cord so the clip-in piece is off it. The 'beep' should immediately stop, along with any other energized circuits, like the headlight, taillight, etc). It works! When you wire it in, solder the connections and don't forget to use heat shrink tubing over the leads before soldering the wires!
NOTE: there is overlap between the two schematics.
Look below, the red wire into the ignition switch is providing power when the switch is on. It runs to the 30 amp main fuse and the battery.
To check its function, set a multimeter to continuity setting, where you hear a steady 'beep' when the two test leads are touching, clip the leads to each side of the cut/stripped red wire, turn-on the ignition switch, (your headlight etc should illuminate, the fuel pump should click, and you should hear the VBoost stepper motor pull and release the cable) and then pull out the switch cord so the clip-in piece is off it. The 'beep' should immediately stop, along with any other energized circuits, like the headlight, taillight, etc). It works! When you wire it in, solder the connections and don't forget to use heat shrink tubing over the leads before soldering the wires!
NOTE: there is overlap between the two schematics.
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Chug4life
Well-Known Member
Thank you, i will take these schematics to my mechanic friend .
Couple of comments on the above.
1.the wire from the switch look to be rated at 30A. I need to see full circuit what hangs off the ignition switch.
2. If using a multimeter for resistance or continuity then disconnect the battery.
Unless you can attach thicker diameter wires to the switch, assuming it is of sufficient rating, the breaking into the power to the ignition would be my suggestion.
1.the wire from the switch look to be rated at 30A. I need to see full circuit what hangs off the ignition switch.
2. If using a multimeter for resistance or continuity then disconnect the battery.
Unless you can attach thicker diameter wires to the switch, assuming it is of sufficient rating, the breaking into the power to the ignition would be my suggestion.
Aquamax
Well-Known Member
Same here!Needed the laugh
And thanks to FM for providing the no-nonsense schematics to hopefully fix a myriad of potential issues on this problem.
Woody
Well-Known Member
Having used a teacher kill switch,for years. Racing atv's. Don't bother using that one.the rubber wears and fails. To work properly. Buy a quality switch. Like a pro design.
