Dynojet Stage 1

Discussion in 'Carb/Tuning' started by BOOST, Apr 5, 2012.

Help Support VMAX Motorcycle Forum by donating:

Tags:
  1. Apr 5, 2012 #1

    BOOST

    BOOST

    BOOST

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    50
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bonney Lake
    Ok Dynojet guys, chime in. New to VMax, and mine is a stock '97 with new Supertrapp slip on's with 6 discs a side. Took the bike in for a 8K service, sync and tune. The verdict from the mechanic is that it still wants more fuel. It wanted to stumble when warm, when I pulled out of a stop. I ran some Seafoam through it, and it seemed to help a bit. The dealership mechanic said without looking into the carbs, it could need jetting, cleaning of the jets that might be clogged with build up. Well after plunking down $400 for the 8K service, I felt ripe for another ream up "my" pipe. I have decided to order a Dynojet 4116 Stage 1 kit. Being fairly mechanical and with the wonderful knowledge on this site, I have decided to perform my own jet, needle and spring change. BUT...Most of you guys hate this jet kit with a passion. Has anyone run the complete Dynojet Stage 1 kit with the smaller mains with good success? I simply want a crisp responsive throttle without any wierd bogging at the low RPMs. Fuel economy is not a issue with me...just performance. The bike honks otherwise, no missing or hesitation. But I feel it could do much better. Dan
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  2. Apr 5, 2012 #2

    MaxMidnight

    MaxMidnight

    MaxMidnight

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2007
    Messages:
    1,818
    Likes Received:
    86
    Location:
    Cumbria, England.
    Wouldn't it be prudent to have it on a dyno so that you get a base setting and an idea which of the DJ's/ needle positions would get you nearer the mark?

    Whist your own time is free there is still a cost and the modest investment in dyno time may work out cheaper in the long-run.
     
  3. Apr 5, 2012 #3

    2fear

    2fear

    2fear

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2007
    Messages:
    1,315
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Muskegon Michigan . USA
    Normally running Super trapps will not require a carb re-jetting, you said you used some Seafoam and it helped a little? That's an indication that your carbs my need a cleaning not re-jetted. personally I would do the shot gun method on the carbs and go from there, it's pretty easy to do yourself and worked wonders for myself and many others, click on this link to view the shot gun method. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
     
  4. Apr 5, 2012 #4

    SpecOps13

    SpecOps13

    SpecOps13

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2010
    Messages:
    6,027
    Likes Received:
    28
    Location:
    Tampa Bay
    Product named "Start Your Engine" by the instructions and leave the stock jetting and needles. DJ Stage 1 Sucks...
     
  5. Apr 5, 2012 #5

    naughtyG

    naughtyG

    naughtyG

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2008
    Messages:
    6,437
    Likes Received:
    7
    Location:
    Freo, Western Australia
    Your symptoms (stumble to a stop when warm) are mostly indicative of clogged carbs.

    You do not need to rejet for slip-ons - only for a full exhaust system, generally.

    Your (easy) option 1: do the shotgun (see the link in 2fear's post)

    Your option 2 (if 1 fails): take your carbs off and clean them yourself. See this: http://www.vmaxforum.net/forumdisplay.php?f=6 All you need is in the stickies.
     
  6. Apr 5, 2012 #6

    BOOST

    BOOST

    BOOST

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    50
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bonney Lake
    Thank you 2Fear ! Awesome help. Will do this ASAP!
     
  7. Apr 5, 2012 #7

    DakRatFink

    DakRatFink

    DakRatFink

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2011
    Messages:
    653
    Likes Received:
    4
    Location:
    Minot, ND
    That stuff worked wonders on my FZR after it had been in storage for near 2 years.
    I would try it first... then the shotgun method.

    Also I have not messed with my own yet but you may also want to consider futzing with the A/F screws after the above 2 steps if you don't see the results you lare looking for.
     
  8. Apr 5, 2012 #8

    deekjx

    deekjx

    deekjx

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2011
    Messages:
    224
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Jacksonville
    Thanks for the info. I was under the impression that the shotgun was the use of seafoam or start your engine. Captain Kyle recommended that I do this to my bike and I foolishly thought I understood what he had asked me to do. Well now I know. I'll have to block off a day to do this but I can tell I'm needing it more an more each day. Last night it started hesitating after the engine got hot and I really had to give some gas to keep it going at times.
     
  9. Apr 5, 2012 #9

    misiek93

    misiek93

    misiek93

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2010
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Carol Stream IL
    Don't mean to get off topic but I'm changing the jets on my carbs at the moment and I'll have to adjust the A/F screws after I'm done. How do I know when the A/F are adjusted correctly?
     
  10. Apr 5, 2012 #10

    ninjaneer

    ninjaneer

    ninjaneer

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2010
    Messages:
    2,791
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Spacecoast, FL
    1) o2 sniffer, or
    2) warm up bike, completely close one of the adjustments, and slowly open until the motor recovers (you'll hear the motor start stumbling when an A/F is closed off), turn the adjustement screw another 1/4 turn. repeat on remaining 3 carbs. NOTE: i've had to adjust the idle speed to 2500 rpms when adjusting a couple of the carbs in order to get the bike to stumble--after which i would return the idle speed back to 1000 rpms.
     
  11. Apr 5, 2012 #11

    RaWarrior

    RaWarrior

    RaWarrior

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2009
    Messages:
    3,402
    Likes Received:
    12
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    The stage 1 is a waste of time and money, the only upswing is it comes with adjustable needles, which are useful if you go to a full system.

    My bike came with it and I kept having issues with midrange hesitation, I called Dynojet, and supposedly talked to the person who designed the kit. He admitted they'd had many complaints of this sort, and suggested putting the stock size PAJ2 back in.

    Try the "start your engines". It comes in a small bottle.

    6 disc supertrapps might be pinching it off a bit....my set came with 8 discs, so I assume that is the recommended # for this engine.

    Too restrictive of an exhaust will make it run lean.
     
  12. Apr 5, 2012 #12

    naughtyG

    naughtyG

    naughtyG

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2008
    Messages:
    6,437
    Likes Received:
    7
    Location:
    Freo, Western Australia
    Like Ninja said - you don't unless you have an O2 sniffer, usually found at dynos.

    Most of us use 2.5 turns out as a starting point, and then maybe adjust a little depending on how it rides. Each bike's different, and even each carb's different, but the ONLY way to adjust correctly is the O2 sniffer to find out exactly what your air/fuel ratio is.
     
  13. Apr 5, 2012 #13

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2008
    Messages:
    12,335
    Likes Received:
    5
    Location:
    cny
    i have 02 bungs welded in my exhaust. thinking of getting a cheap wideband to use to do my a/f screws and possibly to ride with as i'm having some low end issues.
     
  14. Apr 5, 2012 #14

    2fear

    2fear

    2fear

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2007
    Messages:
    1,315
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Muskegon Michigan . USA
    I'm glad you found the link as useful as I did, I took my time and payed attention to all the details and it took me about 2 hours. I was so pleased with this detailed write up that I emailed Lvlhead and thanked him for his great detailed instructions. He replied and said he was going to take his site down because he didn't know anyone was using it, after reading my email he said he would keep it up and running:punk: So make sure you email him and thank him for his great site. lvlhead@lvlhead.com
     
  15. Apr 5, 2012 #15

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2008
    Messages:
    6,377
    Likes Received:
    119
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, PA
    I sent a note saying thanks. I think there is some great information there in a very easy to understand format. When i first got my bike i spent a lot of time there reading all tips and taking in the photos. It really helped me to understand the bike better and I had a lot more confidence to tear into the carbs after seeing that site.
     
  16. Apr 5, 2012 #16

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2008
    Messages:
    12,335
    Likes Received:
    5
    Location:
    cny
    just sent an email myself
     
  17. Apr 6, 2012 #17

    BOOST

    BOOST

    BOOST

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    50
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bonney Lake
    One carb down, 3 to go...I only have an hour of play time after work. This carb looked superb. Still cleaned per steps. Used Seafoam Deep Creep as the cleaning agent.
     
  18. Apr 6, 2012 #18

    ninjaneer

    ninjaneer

    ninjaneer

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2010
    Messages:
    2,791
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Spacecoast, FL
    :hijacked:

    me 2. his site was one of the first sites i bookmarked when i first started riding the max. just like others here, i often point newbies to it, and reference it for personal edification. shoot just yesterday, i gathered information from his "history" section for someone who was interested in the different years.

    sorry boost for the hijack. you can have your thread now. hehehe

    sounds like you're making good progress. good luck.
     
  19. Apr 6, 2012 #19

    BOOST

    BOOST

    BOOST

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    50
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bonney Lake
    Thats what a $400 shot up the arse will do from the Yamaha dealership. Learn your bike and be proud of your own work! lol....I have always worked on my Harley's carb, but they only have one, not four! But this VMax is da chit!
     
  20. Apr 6, 2012 #20

    Lvlhead

    Lvlhead

    Lvlhead

    New Member

    Joined:
    May 12, 2006
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Wayne, IN
    Hi folks!

    A couple of direct emails brought me out of hiding and I found this thread. I don't post at all as I have just been tooooo busy.

    Near as I can tell, http://vmax.lvhead.com has been online for 11 years and will be up as long as I breathe. What my email response to Chuck meant: I appreciate feedback from anyone/everyone. Knowing my site has helped, makes the project rewarding to me.

    Back to the thread at hand..
    IMHO, if you start tweaking idle mixture screws, you must also include carb synch in the process. You must first start at 17mm float levels and clean carbs. It can be complicated and I've been wanting to put final tuning into a tech tip, but it's hard to put into words, and I just don't have the time. Sal (my max) and I have seen over 37mpg, two up at a constant 65+ mph on a 120+ hp bike. It can be done.

    Just my opinion and your mileage may vary!
    Thanks again for the emails.

    Ride Safe!

    Doug
    http://vmax.lvlhead.com
     

Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

arrow_white