EFI conversion on a Gen-1

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RempageR1

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Hi,

After reading this (Electronic fuel injection- CV carbs to TBI) topic, I became interested in modifying my Gen-1 into a fuel injected bike. To do it properly, I wanted to use a Wideband Lambda sensor, a MAP and TPS sensor and some other bits and pieces.

The reasoning behind doing the injection mod is personal: I thought it would be a cool challenge to take on during this COVID-19 time. I do not expect any torque or power gain, although one benefit will be the tolerance for E10 fuel. In this topic, I will try and provide all the technical details of what I`ve done so far and will also ask one or two questions. I would greatly appreciate any feedback and remarks on the technical details, and would like to refer anyone to the topic mentioned above for the discussion about the usefulness of adding fuel injection to the Gen-1 so this topic remains on-target and a technical discussion. Thanks!

To not spend an enormous amount of money on this project, I want to use off the shelf equipment as much as possible. I also do not have machinery to make my own parts so all of it has to be done with basic tools. Also, this should not be a one-way mod. I want to make sure I can go back to stock if I want to so I will keep original parts and cables in place.

This project will be carried out in four phases:

  • Find throttle bodies and see if they can made to fit.
  • Select and get to know the injection system.
  • Install all electronic parts on the Vmax but keep running the carbs. This tests the new controller and ensures it doesn’t crash or show strange behaviour. Here I can test the Wideband Lambda sensor, temperature sensor, TPS and MAP, and the RPM sync. The cool thing is that all of this can be displayed using an Iphone App, more on that later.
  • When all is well, install the throttle bodies and fuel injection pump, regulator, filters etc. and see what will happen 😊.

Step one: Throttle bodies.

I did not want to spend an enormous amount of money creating a custom set of throttle bodies so I initially wanted to order the injector sleeves from Jack (roadstercycle.com) as explained here:

Yamaha Vmax Fuel Injector CV Carb

Since he didn’t respond I decided to do some homework of my own. I looked at compatible throttle bodies and finally bought a set of Honda VFR1200 (2010+) throttle bodies including their injectors. This is a similar engine (1200cc V-4) so the theory is that injectors etc, should be a match. This set looks something like this:



1.jpg

The funny thing is that this set is fly-by-wire. On the left side of the picture, you can see the mount for the throttle cables, on the right side, the servo is shown opening the valves (so it`s fly by wire for about 15 cm 😊). Going fly by wire was one bridge too far, so I the plan was to ditch the servo and reuse the pulley from the TPS and mount that to the place where servo is now positioned.

The picture below shows the injectors. The cool thing is that the fuel injectors and their fuel lines are modular:

2.jpg

Off course, the throttle bodies are not aligned with the Vmax, so it`s great that the set is modular so in the end, the only thing that needs to be replaced is the pipe shown here between the injectors.

Next, I removed the servo and pulley:

3.jpg

And added some threats so I could mount the pulley:

4.jpg

So far so good! But when I fitted the throttle bodies, I found out that the space between the front and back cylinders is too small so it would never fit…. After some scratching my head, I found out that if I mounted the front ones in the back, and the back ones in the front, it would fit (with the fuel rails now being on the front and back of the throttle bodies and no longer in between). The spacing for the (now) rear throttle bodies is near perfect, I just added two rings and that was one. The front ones needed to be widened by about 5cm, so I needed to make new brackets such as this:

6.jpg

For now, I just used some galvanized steel, if it will all work according to plan later on, I will make them from stainless steel.

From the TPS, I added the spring behind the pulley as an extra safety precaution:



7.JPG


To keep the rear throttle bodies as original as possible, the only thing required is this small bracket that rotates the connection point 180 degrees. The bushes for the linkage between back and front throttle bodies are made from rivets which just needed to be sanded down a fraction.

8.jpg


And the finished product looks something like this:


9.jpg

Another challenge was the diameter of the throttle bodies. Initially, I want to run this set using the original manifolds (while for now disabling the Vboost). If it all works as expected, I will later add a new set of (dramatically wider) manifolds. For now, these are used:

10.jpg
 

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These reducers go from 54mm inner diameter to 41 outer diameter. Fitted to the bike, they look like this:

The throttle bodies fit right in:


11.jpg


And as you can see, I reused the first part of the throttle cables making sure I can easily swap out the manifolds for carbs.


12.jpg


So, with everything put together, this is what the throttle bodies look like:


A small stopper was added to stop at WOT and finally, I added a bracket to set the stationary RPM and the linkage for the TPS:


13.jpg


And yes, that is not very aesthetically pleasing but will work for now. In the end, it might be sandwiched between two plates so an outer plate with a cool Vmax logo will be added.

14.jpg

The linkage is very simple but effective. I`m unsure though if I will keep the small L-shaped bit attached to the throttle pulley as that might slip offsetting the throttle position input. Some more nightly hours are required finding a better alternative.

15.jpg

With all of that completed, the throttle bodies are shelved because I first want to ride the bike for a bit with the electronic components fitted to see if everything behaves as it should. I do not want to be stuck at the side of the road due to some bug in the Speeduino…
 
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Injection computer.

There are many ignition/injection solutions available. I already use the Ignitech for ignition, so I only will use the injection part. Options I have checked are Microsquirt, Megasquirt en Speeduino. Since the Vmax runs in an oddfire pattern, I wanted to have a solution that can do odd injection as well. OddFire you ask? Since the cylinders are not a 90-degree V but only 70 degrees, sometimes the crank rotates 110 degrees between TDC of a cylinder, and sometimes 70. For flexibility to be able to inject every cylinder individually I wanted a solution that could do OddFire and OddSquirt.

The Microsquirt was unable to do that, and the Megasquirt is really big (and quite expensive). Since the Speeduino can do all I need including OddFire and OddSquirt and is a lot cheaper than the Megasquirt, the choice was made.

Part of the fun is off course building it yourself. So, for around 100 dollars, this came in the mail:

1.jpg

That is an Arduino Mega and a circuit board for all the inputs and outputs.

To properly test the Speeduino, I highly recommend buying this kit as well:

2.jpg

This is an Arduino Nano which can generate crank and cam-signals and also has six variable resistors to mimic other behaviour of the bike: The MAP pressure, the O2 measurement from the Lambda sensor, the RPM, the Intake Air Temperature, Coolant temperature and TPS. Basically, this allows you to pretty much test how everything works before you have to install it in your bike.

After two evenings of soldering, you should end up with something like this:

3.jpg

In the left, the tester can be seen. Center is the Speeduino, and on the right is the casing with the Wifi card. This allows the serial communication from the Speeduino to be sent to a phone of laptop over Wifi. At the time of the picture, two spark plugs are firing and one injector is injecting fuel.



Another picture showing the Speeduino in its casing:

4.jpg

I`ve also ordered the connectors that should sit on the front panel to be connected to the wiring loom of the bike, but those are still in the mail.

To properly setup the Speeduino, Tuner Studio is used. This is a study in itself and I will not bother you with the details. One great feature I`d like to show is this one:

5.JPG

This shows the duty cycle for the injectors based on the RPM and the Throttle position. When the bike is first started, this table will likely be way off. Based on the Wideband Lambda sensor, Tuner Studio can do live tuning of the map. The ‘cell weighting’ shows how long the bike has been running on a specific RPM and TPS. The cell change shows the changes that have been applied. So, the theory is that once I get the bike to somewhat go, to pack up my laptop (which connects via Wifi to the Speeduino) and have it tune the bike while I`m riding it. How cool is that ?!?.

The final screenshot is a screenshot from the Iphone app RealDash. This I will have running on my phone to check how the bike is doing, and will first be used with the carbs still on there to verify all is well.

6.JPG

That`s all for now, hope you like what I`ve done so far and let me know your thoughts.
 
And with all that said, one question: I want to install a Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband Lambda sensor. This ideally need to 'sniff' the exhaust gasses from all cylinders. My first option would be to place it as shown in this picture. Can anyone tell me if I can just add a bung there for reference exhaust gasses?

Exhaust.jpg
Thanks!
 
watching very intently. when you are done a parts list please.
 
I'm very much liking what you have done; I'm talking about it but you are actually doing it LOL!! ... as I'm not as brave as you in hacking my bike just yet (I am looking on ebay for a complete engine to work on as a mule...).

Sorry but I will now annoy you with some questions.

1. choice of TBs - the ones I am looking at are GSXR 1000 K2; these are inline but separate so can be respaced and arranged into two sets of 2. I was not aware of VFR 1200 - that bike is listed as 170 bhp so more than adequate. I guess you don't know if the suzuki TB would be a better fit?

2. What is the outer diameter of the TBs you have and the diameter of the vmax carb so to be able to fit to the boost manifold rubbers?

3. how are you getting cylinder firing information to the speedunio?

4. presumably you are developing the software on a PC - what toolkit is used? and going on from 3. above, what is involved in changing the code for the uneven firing?

re: sensor; see https://www.dynojet.com/amfile/file/download/file/b608ba84ba4d2375eaf7cfef89afc340/category/122
o2 sensor.jpg
 
Hi 02GF74, thanks for the kudo`s :). To answer:

1. Yes, there are multiple options. I liked the VFR`s because the linkage between front and rear`s are already provided. Also, it already has two fuel-rails so that also really helps. For sure, there are more options.

2. They are 54mm. That`s quite huge compared to the 41mm outer of the Vmax carbs. I guess because the Venturi effect is not required. Again, next phase might be bigger manifolds.

3. The Ignitech ties two pick-up coils together (`85 max has four), so I want to use the same signal. That I can check when running the Speeduino with the carbs. Plan B is reusing the ignition if cylinder #1.

4. The software is open-source, and you use tuner-studio with it (which requires a license for the cool features). Engine constraints provide the oddfire angles:

Knipsel.JPG

OddSquirt you have to setup in the source-code but with a custom .ini file you can also add that to tuner studio. If people really need the OddSquirt to be set in Tuner Studio, I could look into providing the .ini file.

Thanks for the angle of the Lambda sensor, it indeed needs those angles and I will get that boss. The question for now is if that area can be drilled in the exhaust and if it has the required exhaust gas flows there. Thanks!
 
I bet Sean has a spare set of roached-out megaphones he could cut-up for an examination if that's an appropriate location for the fixture.

Looks like you used some Simpson Strong-Tie strapping to cut-up for the brackets.

An ambitious project, thanks for taking the time to document your work.
 
thanks for quick repsonse - yes - you are correct in TB choice - separate fuel rails is a must; it would be nice to have the fuel rails in between the carbs but even GSXR TBs would not fit like that.
plus added advantage is VFR TBs are 1/2 the price.

BTW is s there enough space in either of the marked orange rectangles to fit the TPS? It would be much neater :)

tps position.jpg
 
Last edited:
thanks for quick repsonse - yes - you are correct in TB choice - separate fuel rails is a must; it would be nice to have the fuel rails in between the carbs but even GSXR TBs would not fit like that.
plus added advantage is VFR TBs are 1/2 the price.

BTW is s there enough space in either of the marked orange rectangles to fit the TPS? It would be much neater :)

View attachment 74686

I`m afraid not, it`s too small to hold the TPS there. I might be able to put it on the side of the bottom left throttle body, let`s see if that will work.

Thanks to all others for the positive feedback :).

One thing to add is that all throttle bodies have a screw to stop them from shutting entirely, one of those screws can be seen on the bottom right throttle body in the picture below. I left the screws themselves untouched but made sure all throttle bodies sit against those screws and by that, they are already synchronized. So the brackets might not look the part, but they are actually doing the job quite well for now :).9a.jpg
 
Hi,

After reading this (Electronic fuel injection- CV carbs to TBI) topic, I became interested in modifying my Gen-1 into a fuel injected bike. To do it properly, I wanted to use a Wideband Lambda sensor, a MAP and TPS sensor and some other bits and pieces.

The reasoning behind doing the injection mod is personal: I thought it would be a cool challenge to take on during this COVID-19 time. I do not expect any torque or power gain, although one benefit will be the tolerance for E10 fuel. In this topic, I will try and provide all the technical details of what I`ve done so far and will also ask one or two questions. I would greatly appreciate any feedback and remarks on the technical details, and would like to refer anyone to the topic mentioned above for the discussion about the usefulness of adding fuel injection to the Gen-1 so this topic remains on-target and a technical discussion. Thanks!

To not spend an enormous amount of money on this project, I want to use off the shelf equipment as much as possible. I also do not have machinery to make my own parts so all of it has to be done with basic tools. Also, this should not be a one-way mod. I want to make sure I can go back to stock if I want to so I will keep original parts and cables in place.

This project will be carried out in four phases:

  • Find throttle bodies and see if they can made to fit.
  • Select and get to know the injection system.
  • Install all electronic parts on the Vmax but keep running the carbs. This tests the new controller and ensures it doesn’t crash or show strange behaviour. Here I can test the Wideband Lambda sensor, temperature sensor, TPS and MAP, and the RPM sync. The cool thing is that all of this can be displayed using an Iphone App, more on that later.
  • When all is well, install the throttle bodies and fuel injection pump, regulator, filters etc. and see what will happen 😊.

Step one: Throttle bodies.

I did not want to spend an enormous amount of money creating a custom set of throttle bodies so I initially wanted to order the injector sleeves from Jack (roadstercycle.com) as explained here:

Yamaha Vmax Fuel Injector CV Carb

Since he didn’t respond I decided to do some homework of my own. I looked at compatible throttle bodies and finally bought a set of Honda VFR1200 (2010+) throttle bodies including their injectors. This is a similar engine (1200cc V-4) so the theory is that injectors etc, should be a match. This set looks something like this:



View attachment 74648

The funny thing is that this set is fly-by-wire. On the left side of the picture, you can see the mount for the throttle cables, on the right side, the servo is shown opening the valves (so it`s fly by wire for about 15 cm 😊). Going fly by wire was one bridge too far, so I the plan was to ditch the servo and reuse the pulley from the TPS and mount that to the place where servo is now positioned.

The picture below shows the injectors. The cool thing is that the fuel injectors and their fuel lines are modular:

View attachment 74649

Off course, the throttle bodies are not aligned with the Vmax, so it`s great that the set is modular so in the end, the only thing that needs to be replaced is the pipe shown here between the injectors.

Next, I removed the servo and pulley:

View attachment 74650

And added some threats so I could mount the pulley:

View attachment 74651

So far so good! But when I fitted the throttle bodies, I found out that the space between the front and back cylinders is too small so it would never fit…. After some scratching my head, I found out that if I mounted the front ones in the back, and the back ones in the front, it would fit (with the fuel rails now being on the front and back of the throttle bodies and no longer in between). The spacing for the (now) rear throttle bodies is near perfect, I just added two rings and that was one. The front ones needed to be widened by about 5cm, so I needed to make new brackets such as this:

View attachment 74653

For now, I just used some galvanized steel, if it will all work according to plan later on, I will make them from stainless steel.

From the TPS, I added the spring behind the pulley as an extra safety precaution:



View attachment 74654


To keep the rear throttle bodies as original as possible, the only thing required is this small bracket that rotates the connection point 180 degrees. The bushes for the linkage between back and front throttle bodies are made from rivets which just needed to be sanded down a fraction.

View attachment 74655


And the finished product looks something like this:


View attachment 74656

Another challenge was the diameter of the throttle bodies. Initially, I want to run this set using the original manifolds (while for now disabling the Vboost). If it all works as expected, I will later add a new set of (dramatically wider) manifolds. For now, these are used:

View attachment 74657
I'm currently working a efi for my vmax. If u want some info on how I am running mine
My email is [email protected]
 
I`m afraid not, it`s too small to hold the TPS there. I might be able to put it on the side of the bottom left throttle body, let`s see if that will work.

This isn't a priority for you at them moment but to tidy up the final version, there are smaller TPS sensors available - Kawasaki Ninja have 1 mounting lug (the centre locates in a hole which may not work here).
e.g. ZX14
1609881115873.png
ZX6R
1609881164889.png

I'm sure you;ll be updating this soon but will you be fitting a high pressue pump in the tank replacing the original or have a second pump fed by the original?

I'm dying to know how you will address the diameter difference between the TBs and boost maniflold - will you be keeping the boost manifold or replacing it?

One possibility to reduce the step size is that smaller TBs could be used, say from VFR 800 (it may not be possible to split them to spavre them out correctly) and to supply the air/fuel, the Vboost could be used to draw from a second TB (which would require software changes).
 
The reason for the vboost was surely to give the good low end of small carbs (and they are small), combined with the top end airflow to give the v4 what it needed. With adequately sized TBs you won't need the vboost?
 
The reason for the vboost was surely to give the good low end of small carbs (and they are small), combined with the top end airflow to give the v4 what it needed. With adequately sized TBs you won't need the vboost?
And let's give the vboost another mention - in standard form it seems to me to be opening rather too late whilst on wide open throttle - why do I say that? Well you feel the kick. Which means that before it opens the engine is being starved. For plodding around it's fine - better even, probably saves some fuel and makes it easier to ride? Aside from the efi thing, I'de like to make a gismo to fix this, as a trial anyway. Hmmm
 
And let's give the vboost another mention - in standard form it seems to me to be opening rather too late whilst on wide open throttle - why do I say that? Well you feel the kick. Which means that before it opens the engine is being starved. For plodding around it's fine - better even, probably saves some fuel and makes it easier to ride? Aside from the efi thing, I'de like to make a gismo to fix this, as a trial anyway. Hmmm

I currently use the Ignitech for ignition as well as controlling the Vboost. I`ve set that one up so the Vboost opens earlier on WOT which I measure with a TPS. You can find more on that if you search for the Ignitech here on the forum.

@02GF74, For now I will use the reducers as shown in the original post so the TB`s sit directly on the Vboost manifolds but will run the kit with Vboost disabled for now. If you want to use smaller TB`s you have to make sure the Injectors can cope with a Vboost enabled setup where they are required to provide fuel to two cylinders instead of one... With carbs, the Venturi effect ensures fuel is being added when needed, with injectors it`s up to you to make sure the timing is right. That means you might end up in a Vboost situation where one cylinder gets too much fuel, and the other is starved which can overheat that cylinder and cause extensive damage!. I would only attempt that if you have a Wideband Lambda on all cylinders.

If it all works as planned, like mentioned in the opening post, I will make some custom manifolds that are much bigger and thus remove the Vboost entirely.

For fuel pump, I use an external inline one and a regulator set to 50psi as per specs of the VFR1200. I`ve got all those parts already laying here, I just need the parts to build a fuel return line. More on that stuff when I have time to put it all together ;)
 

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