EFI conversion on a Gen-1

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This is time for the strong and simple to make things work. The Fufu can come after the project is bearing the fruit that you wish.

Yes indeed that`s what it is. I`m busy getting the electronics and mechanical items perfect and will then focus on finalizing the tune. After that, I might put some thought into the brackets. With everything attached though, it will look something like this:
50.jpg

To me, that looks quite okay. Indeed not a final design but certainly not horrible.
 
Be watching all efi threads. Didn't want the headaches of 4 individual throttle bodies. Going to try single 56mm BBK throttle body. Already fabbed intake w/4 inj drop plates. This gives you direct port induction. Did not want to do a lot of sensors. Want to run fuel only off of neg side of coils. Only thing I'm waiting on is initial megasquirt settings and a fuel map. If anyone has some their willing to share that would be greatly appreciated. Will eventually turbo after efi is running good.
 

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Yes indeed that`s what it is. I`m busy getting the electronics and mechanical items perfect and will then focus on finalizing the tune. After that, I might put some thought into the brackets. With everything attached though, it will look something like this:
View attachment 82371

To me, that looks quite okay. Indeed not a final design but certainly not horrible.
It looks alot cleaner and more compact than the Roadster Cycle F.I.
To say "Great Job!" is the under statement of 2022!
 
Be watching all efi threads. Didn't want the headaches of 4 individual throttle bodies. Going to try single 56mm BBK throttle body. Already fabbed intake w/4 inj drop plates. This gives you direct port induction. Did not want to do a lot of sensors. Want to run fuel only off of neg side of coils. Only thing I'm waiting on is initial megasquirt settings and a fuel map. If anyone has some their willing to share that would be greatly appreciated. Will eventually turbo after efi is running good.

Hi Big "A", thank you for sharing your setup, looks very nice! As for the settings and fuel map, I could share how I`ve setup the engine part and the map but it would not be a match for you. Do you perhaps know the flow rate of those injectors and the correct pressure they take? That`s the first thing you need to get right. From there, you could use my fuel load map but your butterfly is different, intake characteristics are different and your TPS might have a different readout than mine. So that is not really going to help you I`m afraid. Do you run a wideband O2 sensor? I would definitely advise you to do get some kind of reading.

You don't have to be worried with the bike not starting, I`ve come to learn it will pretty much run on everyting from way rich to lean as can be. From that initial idle, you can slowly work on the map as you go to get it right. In case you want to see my map as an example just let me know. Just keep on going! You will get it right.
 
I do have 02 wideband sensor. I currently have kerker 4-1 . Bung welded right before the canister. Gauge not hooked up yet. I have a new canister I made out of a echo chamber and a Evans glass pak. Going to make video when weather is nicer. I am interested in your maps/settings. If you could send them to me , my email is [email protected]. thanks that would be a great help
 
I do have 02 wideband sensor. I currently have kerker 4-1 . Bung welded right before the canister. Gauge not hooked up yet. I have a new canister I made out of a echo chamber and a Evans glass pak. Going to make video when weather is nicer. I am interested in your maps/settings. If you could send them to me , my email is [email protected]. thanks that would be a great help
I'm running 21lb python injectors. Will try fuel pressure at 50 psi. I have been in the motor 3 times. I have installed corrillo rods, arias 8 to 1 resessed pistons and a .60 thousands Head gasket. Figuring to get around 7.8 compression ratio overall. Pulled Vmax cam shafts. Installed venture cams for less overlap. Have 6 finger centrifugal lockup clutch for no slippage.
 
I'm running 21lb python injectors. Will try fuel pressure at 50 psi. I have been in the motor 3 times. I have installed corrillo rods, arias 8 to 1 resessed pistons and a .60 thousands Head gasket. Figuring to get around 7.8 compression ratio overall. Pulled Vmax cam shafts. Installed venture cams for less overlap. Have 6 finger centrifugal lockup clutch for no slippage.
Do you know of anyone running the nologoy plug wires. Need to know best plugs to run with them. My goal is the get 250 hp/9's in the 1/4/ and top speed of 165
 
Do you know of anyone running the nologoy plug wires. Need to know best plugs to run with them. My goal is the get 250 hp/9's in the 1/4/ and top speed of 165

No I don't know the noligy plug wires, I run COP which saves me a load of space and allows me to place the pump and fuel filter on the location where the rear coils used to be. Perhaps you could create a topic to check if anyone else has used the nology wires.

I also run 50psi at the moment, my injectors do 315cc/min so they have a bit more flow. You likely need to select 'basic distributor' in your trigger setup.

Sounds like you know what your`re doing, good work!
 
After connecting all the essential parts, the bike fired right up :).

So today, I synced the carbs using a flow meter:
View attachment Flow.mp4
















So the bike is almost completed, only thing is I have to wait to March before I can ride it. The bike is registered here in the Netherlands as an oldtimer so I cannot ride it from December to February. Cannot wait!
 
After connecting all the essential parts, the bike fired right up :).

So today, I synced the carbs using a flow meter:
View attachment 82579
















So the bike is almost completed, only thing is I have to wait to March before I can ride it. The bike is registered here in the Netherlands as an oldtimer so I cannot ride it from December to February. Cannot wait!
Ooh Man! Your post and video was like a belated Christmas gift LOL!
BTW I use that same meter
20210203_172225.jpg
 
Here's a knock-off of that:
Amazon.com: Deluxe Carburetor Airflow Meter : Automotive

VMax carb synch tool.02.png

And the German version, more-expensive (natch, it's $89):
SK Synchrometer airflow meter for carburetors (dellortoshop.com)

1644416726354.png

I don't know why the knock-off wouldn't do the job for you, at < 1/2 the price. Look at The Carburetor Shop's page, it's got dimensions of the tapered cone, so you can see if it would work for other multi-carbureted engines you may have. With a bit of ingenuity, you could adapt the tool's tapered cone to something smaller or larger, maybe use a funnel like you'd use to fill a deep in the engine compartment oil fill plug.

FloTool Extra Large Funnel 05034MI - The Home Depot

Funnel narrow.png
 
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Yes indeed that`s what it is. I`m busy getting the electronics and mechanical items perfect and will then focus on finalizing the tune. After that, I might put some thought into the brackets. With everything attached though, it will look something like this:
View attachment 82371

To me, that looks quite okay. Indeed not a final design but certainly not horrible.
It should not look like stock Vmax, everybody should see difference. Last step of your work is finding and attaching "EFI" label!!! Second label should say "Artwork of RempageR1"!!!!
 
Hi! A quick update on this topic. After having had some issues which turned out to be a bad starter clutch, I finally have the bike running well again.

Last year, I had the Speeduino controller under the front left air scoop and the O2 sensor in the exhaust. This meant I sometimes lost Wifi signal to the tuning program running on the laptop in my backpack stopping autotune. Also, the O2 signal had too much latency since it was too far away from the cylinders. Now, the Speeduino is positioned under the saddle and the O2 is on the rear right downpipe. This means the Speeduino is closer to the laptop I carry on my back when automatically tuning the fuel table and the O2 response is more direct.

Tonight, I took the bike out with the TunderStudio on my laptop and autotune enabled and just started driving. Since I have the 3d printed manifolds, the amount of air has changed so therefore a tune was needed. Whenever I felt the tune was not right (feeling a dip in power) I held the throttle at that place for a couple of seconds until that cell had the right fuel load and it would run fine. So after a 1 hour drive, this is the result:


1649440918709.png

Blue means more fuel, red means less fuel. The weighting on the right shows how many times that cell was hit, the cell change shows by how much the cell was changes.
For more info on autotune, watch this video:

I have to say it`s quite nice driving with a bike that just keeps running better and better :D. I`ll keep doing this for a couple of times more until the cell changes are close to zero. Then I need to check some details like quick load changes (going from throttle closed to WOT immediately) to see if I can get those as smooth as possible. Fun stuff!

Will update this topic as always.
 
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A well-written program that automatically updates the fuel mapping as you cruise, what an accomplishment. It sounds like the Holley Sniper system, though I don't know enough about either's operational characteristics, other than hearing they 'learn' and make adjustments as you run the engine. I suppose that once you get the system populated with enough data points to eliminate the red cells, you're closer to where you need to be.

What will be of interest to Gen. 1 owners is the bottom line: what will the cost be, and how easy will be the change-over? I'm OK with keeping a OEM carburetion system functional. However, learning electronic fueling systems will be a steep learning curve, and will require new equipment.
 
Very cool. Wondering if this program could be loaded onto small permanent module under seat so it could always autotune. I'm thinking for elevation, humidity, seasonal type of changes. Thanks for sharing.
 
Guess the mix of hyper tech, i.e. honestly try to relate, but can't keep up, means I'm full of admiration yet not contemplating this route.
On the other hand, a single carb car style, now that could be a possible.
OK, I know the world is going to be universally using AA batteries for everything very soon, but ........
 
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