Sidecarjohn
Well-Known Member
Could the rest of us be permitted to follow this thread in peace, please ?
Happy new year !
Happy new year !
EFI conversion on a Gen-1
- Thread starter RempageR1
- Start date
Help Support VMAX Forum:
The throttle bodies already have tubes to connect the MAP sensor do I don't need to add those to the manifolds
I deliberately broke the first test print and found out the weakest spot is where the tube section connects to the base plate so I added some fillet there:
View attachment 81859
Next up will be printing it with the carbon reinforced nylon. Happy holidays!
There is some impressive stuff going on right here!! Excellent work RampageR1!
Thanks for sharing the development process. I'm always willing to learn something and this is definitely a learning process for me. I hope that your efforts reward you with better performance, less maintenance, and a reasonable outlay of $.
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
So the first one was printed using carbon reinforced nylon. Nice fit isn't it?
Also, that material is very strong. I took off a slice 1mm thick and you really cannot break it.
Since the inner bolt did bind with the cylinder head, I`ve created two models. The base will always be a bit thicker than the aluminum ones for additional strength.
Over the next week the four will be printed, I cannot wait for them all to be finished!
Also, that material is very strong. I took off a slice 1mm thick and you really cannot break it.
Since the inner bolt did bind with the cylinder head, I`ve created two models. The base will always be a bit thicker than the aluminum ones for additional strength.
Over the next week the four will be printed, I cannot wait for them all to be finished!
Parminio
Well-Known Member
Oh man! That's perfect!
[sarcasm] Well, other than the extra bolt hole that ruins the overall aesthetic that for some strange reason is completely unacceptable in an R&D project. [/sarcasm]
[sarcasm] Well, other than the extra bolt hole that ruins the overall aesthetic that for some strange reason is completely unacceptable in an R&D project.
[/sarcasm]
Don't forget to print in the sealing groves so the boots will fit.
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
Hi Sean,
Thanks for the heads-up! I looked at getting the rubber boots from the VFR1200 (where I got the throttle bodies from), but there the throttle bodies bolted directly to the cylinder head:
Since the Vmax heads are too close together I couldn't use the same principle to bolt them directly to the heads using a similar boot.
So I will use silicone hose to connect the two. Also, since I did not have a boot that fits the groove, I did not print it as it might be a weak spot.
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Good call by Sean.
You could print small grooves, like on hose tails or hose joiners. The difference in diameter, and it doesn't need to be much, will grip the hose/boot better than a smooth surface.... it probably won't be an issue but no harm with a 'belt and braces' approach.
Example:
You could print small grooves, like on hose tails or hose joiners. The difference in diameter, and it doesn't need to be much, will grip the hose/boot better than a smooth surface.... it probably won't be an issue but no harm with a 'belt and braces' approach.
Example:
huw s
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure you will see more mpg, more top end power, better low end, and maybe even more mid range torque.
Well done so far.
Are there o ring grooves on the underside of the bolt flange? Also don't forget the left front #2 and right rear #3 bolts enter oil galleries...oil can creep up the threads if unsealed.
Parminio
Well-Known Member
Wow. I did not know that. You learn something new every day.
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
Perhaps I could add something like on the right if I make a new version. The current design as shown above is already being printed so I cannot make modifications. I'm not worried though, a hose with a clamp should do the trick for now.
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
Thanks Sean and Danny, indeed I`m aware those ones are leaking. I always add some liquid gasket to the threats of those bolts and it always works fine.
And yes there is a o-ring groove on the underside of the stack:
So all good
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Perfect!! As I knew it would be.Thanks Sean and Danny, indeed I`m aware those ones are leaking. I always add some liquid gasket to the threats of those bolts and it always works fine.
And yes there is a o-ring groove on the underside of the stack:
View attachment 82159
So all good
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
And another update .
First, the O2 sensor is now located on the rear right downpipe. To ensure it doesn't block the exhaust flow I used two bungs so it now just enters the downpipe. As mentioned, the reason to move it from the muffler to the downpipe is the latency between the cylinder and the smoke passing by.
So now it`s located here. A very nice fit.
Next up is the renewed Speeduino housing. It`s now much smaller than the previous one and will be watertight:
The first modification done was the addition of the wifi module. That enables me to send the signal to my phone to log and show the digital dash.
The white print I created myself so that the flatcable can connect to the new connector. It was then printed in China and sent over. Luckily I got it right in the first try
The new unit from the front, almost looks like a production part
Old vs. new, please note the reduced height.
Since it`s now quite small, it fits under the buddy seat. This means it`s no longer under the left air-scoop meaning less heat, less wind, moisture and also less vibration. To further reduce the vibration, I attached it to the buddy instead of the subframe. I`ve added a metal plate (from this angle) below the Speeduino to reinforce the buddy seat and also made the aluminum profile go across the unit to hold it in place and further reinforce the buddy seat.
This is the unit, connected to it`s new wiring loom. I will cover the wires some more once it`s all tested.
Also, under the saddle lots of stuff has been changed. To explain the numbers:
1. This relay provides the Speeduino with power. It could just run off the ignition wiring, but the Speeduino needs to measure the voltage the injectors get. Since the injectors react faster with higher voltage and slower with lower voltage, you need to compensate. Once the key is turned, the Speeduino starts up.
2. If the key is turned, and the cutoff switch is in 'run' position, the injectors and the fuel pump are powered by this relay.
3. This relay is triggered by 4, which is a tilt sensor. If the bike is dropped, the injectors and fuel pump are switched off. It`s a safety feature.
5. The new position of the O2 controller. Really like how nice that did fit.
So from an electrical perspective, it`s all done. Now lets wait for the manifolds!
.First, the O2 sensor is now located on the rear right downpipe. To ensure it doesn't block the exhaust flow I used two bungs so it now just enters the downpipe. As mentioned, the reason to move it from the muffler to the downpipe is the latency between the cylinder and the smoke passing by.
So now it`s located here. A very nice fit
.Next up is the renewed Speeduino housing. It`s now much smaller than the previous one and will be watertight:
The first modification done was the addition of the wifi module. That enables me to send the signal to my phone to log and show the digital dash.
The white print I created myself so that the flatcable can connect to the new connector. It was then printed in China and sent over. Luckily I got it right in the first try
The new unit from the front, almost looks like a production part
Old vs. new, please note the reduced height.
Since it`s now quite small, it fits under the buddy seat. This means it`s no longer under the left air-scoop meaning less heat, less wind, moisture and also less vibration. To further reduce the vibration, I attached it to the buddy instead of the subframe. I`ve added a metal plate (from this angle) below the Speeduino to reinforce the buddy seat and also made the aluminum profile go across the unit to hold it in place and further reinforce the buddy seat.
This is the unit, connected to it`s new wiring loom. I will cover the wires some more once it`s all tested.
Also, under the saddle lots of stuff has been changed. To explain the numbers:
1. This relay provides the Speeduino with power. It could just run off the ignition wiring, but the Speeduino needs to measure the voltage the injectors get. Since the injectors react faster with higher voltage and slower with lower voltage, you need to compensate. Once the key is turned, the Speeduino starts up.
2. If the key is turned, and the cutoff switch is in 'run' position, the injectors and the fuel pump are powered by this relay.
3. This relay is triggered by 4, which is a tilt sensor. If the bike is dropped, the injectors and fuel pump are switched off. It`s a safety feature.
5. The new position of the O2 controller. Really like how nice that did fit
.So from an electrical perspective, it`s all done. Now lets wait for the manifolds!
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veebooster
Well-Known Member
Wow, you certainly are a talented fellow! Thanks for sharing your odyssey.
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
@veebooster, thank you for the kind words, much appreciated!
One of the things I worked on the last week was the throttle bodies. A year ago, Fire-medic remarked that the brackets connecting the TB`s were made out of 'Simpson Strong-Tie strapping'. And he was right. We were in a COVID-19 lockdown period so I had to work with the materials at hand. Now however I was able to source some nicer looking brackets:
Also two TB`s are now connected up top to prevent them moving sideways. In addition, brackets in the linkage now now made of aluminum and are much stronger than before.
Also, the printed stacks came in and I created brackets to connect them together in pairs:
And another picture showing the nearly completed set:
Still waiting for the connecting hose to come in. Then it`s pretty much ready to be fired up and I can get tuning
One of the things I worked on the last week was the throttle bodies. A year ago, Fire-medic remarked that the brackets connecting the TB`s were made out of 'Simpson Strong-Tie strapping'. And he was right. We were in a COVID-19 lockdown period so I had to work with the materials at hand. Now however I was able to source some nicer looking brackets:
Also two TB`s are now connected up top to prevent them moving sideways. In addition, brackets in the linkage now now made of aluminum and are much stronger than before.
Also, the printed stacks came in and I created brackets to connect them together in pairs:
And another picture showing the nearly completed set:
Still waiting for the connecting hose to come in. Then it`s pretty much ready to be fired up and I can get tuning
That's great work. From a functional perspective, it works.
From a aesthetic perspective it horrible.
You could get the same strength for the side pieces with T shaped alloy with slots milled to expose the TBs behind.
Something along these lines, imagine the rectangular plate is black anodised and then has thinned out section as wl as slots cut out.
Example of black anodised alloy with milling
And slots cut.
From a aesthetic perspective it horrible.
You could get the same strength for the side pieces with T shaped alloy with slots milled to expose the TBs behind.
Something along these lines, imagine the rectangular plate is black anodised and then has thinned out section as wl as slots cut out.
Example of black anodised alloy with milling
And slots cut.
This is time for the strong and simple to make things work. The Fufu can come after the project is bearing the fruit that you wish.
