My 1985 died on me about 100 miles from the house, and found the rectifier had ruptured and fried the connectors as well. The new rectifier comes with the male plug, but can anyone point me towards a supplier of the female connector? It's melted...
electrical connectors
- Thread starter Steven May
- Start date
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unrelated kinda but what do you think about a toggle switch for the headlight to lessen the electrical load?
You can solder new connectors and then just wrap/heat shrink the connections and never have to worry about it again. The connectors are a common problem as they get dirty and the heat that comes along with the bad connection can damage the components. If you're sold on connectors, you can find them here: Connectors - Vintage Connections
thanks for the reply, I thought about that but thought I'd ask for advice 1st...was uncertain about just clipping the male connector off a new rectifier...I went ahead and pulled the wires out after I labeled them...as you can tell from the pic there was a heat problem. I'll check out the link and make a decision, thanx!
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Yes, solder the wires. Before you do, make sure you already slipped-on enough heat-shrink tubing. I suggest the marine type, with the water-repellant goo-inside to waterproof things. And while you're at-it locate the R/R upgrade, a MOFSET unit. Just contact Sean Morley [email protected] He can supply you with one, and ask him for the heat-shrink too. I'm sure he can send you a package which will work better to charge your battery, will work with Li-Iron batteries, and will mount well. Ensure you have secured the wires to the frame sufficiently.
Double-post
Yes, solder the wires. Before you do, make sure you already slipped-on enough heat-shrink tubing. I suggest the marine type, with the water-repellant goo-inside to waterproof things. And while you're at-it locate the R/R upgrade, a MOFSET unit. Just contact Sean Morley [email protected] He can supply you with one, and ask him for the heat-shrink too. I'm sure he can send you a package which will work better to charge your battery, will work with Li-Iron batteries, and will mount well. Ensure you have secured the wires to the frame sufficiently.
I have replacement connectors for most locations of this bike as well as some other custom versions. Not all are pictured
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likembikem
Well-Known Member
I have a switch for my headlight high beam only. The blue indicator reminds me to switch the light on 'if' I were to forget. I have one on my dual sport too and it has become such a habit to turn on the light as I hit the road I don't really have to think about not having it on. Mine is mostly for warm up and give the battery a chance to recover from the starting.
well crap. so I put on the new rectifier, and started the bike...was getting 13.5v, when the voltage dropped. touched the rectifier and it nearly burned my finger...pretty sure i wired it right...guess i need to go back to the stator and see what it looks like in there? Bummer...and one2dmax, Im gonna need that upgrade!! pretty sure Ive roasted that one.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
+1 to FM's suggestion of ditching the connectors all together. The early regulators weren't very good. The later units with the fins are better. I've had issues with both. The ground addition on the later R/R takes care of the regulator ground problem on early units. You can certainly add a ground to the early regulators, which is an option. The crimp fix is also worth looking into for an early vmax. Lots of threads here on the crimp fix.
Haha, my bad...I took everything out and cleaned all the connections, put everything back, and now have 14v again...I realized that the first time I hooked it all up, I'd left the rectifier dangling and it wasn't getting a ground. Back to the old one, I took all that off when I pulled my tank to get it lined, and I painted the footpeg...since it grounds through the body of the rectifier, it wasn't getting a good ground then either. I suspect that is why the other one burned up so badly...It's nice and cool to the touch now, hopefully it'll last awhile
