Electrode on Plug eaten 2 ceramic

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mavgrab302

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Location
conroe, tx
I have been having a pretty good lag when wot from 2 or 3, like when getting on it to catch someone on the street, and has been running pretty shitty in the 3-4k range at cruise. I did the shotgun fix the other day but didn't help much. Today I took off the plug and all of them looked fine but the front left, that plugs electrode was damn near eaten all the way to the ceramic, what would cause that? Could this be a coil problem rather a carburator issue?
 
Update. Well looking a bit moer into the problem today I noticed that it has a miss at all rpms when at a cruise. Also when I got home hooked it up to see what volts I was getting at the battery, which is new an Odyssey 680, anyways it reads : 1000rpm= 11.9volts
2000rpm=12.3
3000rpm=12.37
this doesn't sound right to me at all, could my rec be going out and causeing the miss plus the electrode wearing on one cyclinder?
 
Well, it's a safe bet your charging system needs serious attention. Run some stator tests to determine if it is putting out the necessary voltage. Then you could dismount your r/r from behind the left,rear foot pegs and clean up the bolts to ensure better grounding for it to see if you can squeeze better output from it. Could also add a ground wire to it and run directly to the battery (-).

I ended up replacing my r/r for a newer style one that has a ground wire specific coming out of it's harness. (the originals on older vmaxes ground through the r/r chassis directly to the frame)
 
Normally, burned off electrodes happen with; engine overheating, too wide of gap, lean fuel/air mixture, pre-ignition, wrong nitrous spread, or wrong type of plug.
 
Well for sure it is not the carbs.....
I guess the rectifier could be the issue because thats the only thing I can think of and is the only thing not working correctly.
 
Ok well when the bike is running to check spark FL plug is firing, but when all the plugs are put in the bike and I temp the headers all are hot except FL cylinder? I'm positive I am getting fuel the carbs are prestine. I'm stumped. How do you test the TCI box, I can't understand the service manual is a little vague?
 
A lot of times a good, working r/r and then a well charged battery will cure a weak TCI box of it's bad habit. Did for me. The TCI MUST HAVE good voltage to fire properly.

I'd fix the charging system, since you know it's not working properly, then go from there. Could be, you don't need to fix anything else.
 
Lil update. Seems someone messed with my sync screws and the # 2 carb was so air tight that it was starving for air, after taking everything apart een gauging the valves it took 10 minutes with my motion pro to fix, just a real lean carb... kinda feel stupid cause the first time I compression checked it I didnt hold WOT and I had 90 120 120 150, later when I clean the carbs and put them back on I reached for the throttle to open it up and realized I hadn't earlier and knew my compressio would be back...all within a pound of 160...now I just need to richin back up cause it's the only thing i changed 165 main to 160 and now I'm running a bit hot in traffic before needle never went above the screw now it titers red till i hit my fan bypass, don't think richening it will help much but seems a bit lean anyways...thanks everyone. and sean
 
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