Exhaust clearance

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cylekamp

New Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
Today I mounted a 4-2-1 Hindle exhaust on my 89 max. It’s a used exhaust and I don’t think they make the same model anymore. Either way I got it all bolted up with no problem. But after it was done I noticed one of the front headers is touching the radiator drain valve. Anyone have any similar issues or know how to resolve?
Thanks.
 
Sure. Loosen that pipe at the cyl head and where it goes-into the resonance chamber/muffler ass'y. That's for the stock exhaust. See below for an aftermarket full exhaust.

Move it enough to give you the required maximum clearance and sequentially-tighten the front, then the rear of that pipe, over about 3 back & forth increasing-tightness events.

Sometimes it helps to have a second pair of hands, to hold a particular angle/position of the pipes, but you can usually overcome that with a tie-down or two, maybe some blocking, or a thick pad, a bungee cord, some duct tape... . Or, put one of your little tax-deductions to-work, give 'em a break from online school.

For yours, it's a similar fashion, but you may-need to loosen everything, and then secure it where you need-it using the suggested materials above, and again, sequentially-tighten through several evolutions, all the fasteners. You don't-want to run the megaphone/canister tight, and do the same thing everywhere-else. Tightening the fasteners up through three evolutions will allow you to maintain alignment and clearances, and to get things properly-tight.
 
Last edited:
My Hindle 4-2-1 has the same problem on the rear cylinders. The headers are about an 1/8" or a 1/16" from the plastic battery box. If I let it warm up too long it melts the box near the header pipe.

I am on my third E-bay battery box. (thanks Pinwall Cycle!)
 
Sure. Loosen that pipe at the cyl head and where it goes-into the resonance chamber/muffler ass'y. That's for the stock exhaust. See below for an aftermarket full exhaust.

Move it enough to give you the required maximum clearance and sequentially-tighten the front, then the rear of that pipe, over about 3 back & forth increasing-tightness events.

Sometimes it helps to have a second pair of hands, to hold a particular angle/position of the pipes, but you can usually overcome that with a tie-down or two, maybe some blocking, or a thick pad, a bungee cord, some duct tape... . Or, put one of your little tax-deductions to-work, give 'em a break from online school.

For yours, it's a similar fashion, but you may-need to loosen everything, and then secure it where you need-it using the suggested materials above, and again, sequentially-tighten through several evolutions, all the fasteners. You don't-want to run the megaphone/canister tight, and do the same thing everywhere-else. Tightening the fasteners up through three evolutions will allow you to maintain alignment and clearances, and to get things properly-tight.

definitely could use a hand. I’ll have a friend help tmr while i loosen er all up and adjust as needed. Thanks for a help!
 
My Hindle 4-2-1 has the same problem on the rear cylinders. The headers are about an 1/8" or a 1/16" from the plastic battery box. If I let it warm up too long it melts the box near the header pipe.

I am on my third E-bay battery box. (thanks Pinwall Cycle!)

I believe after the second melted box, I would have fashioned a heat shield of some sort to prevent it from recurring.

But, I am all ears. In the next few weeks, I will be installing a Dale Walker Holeshot system. Haven't heard a fitment problems with that one, but...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top