Expert advice needed on Ohlins shocks

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cbx1260cc

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I have a pair of BRAND NEW Ohlins Premium shocks (Adjustable rebound and damping) Left Over from a Kawasaki ZR1100 Resurrection.

The shocks are Ohlins model KA 446 and measure 13.5" eyelet center to center.

Couple of questions.

Can these be used "as is" (set up for 200lbs rider) or do they have to be Returned to an Ohlins service center to be "reconfigured" (read $$$)?

IF they can be used how will the 13.5" length affect ride / handling?

As you can imagine I'm anxious to use these on my new 2007 for a nice upgrade. so am hopeful the answer will be mount and go.

All comments appreciated.

Thank you
 

Parminio

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Can these be used "as is" (set up for 200lbs rider)
No offense, but how heavy are you?

If you're in the 185 to 200 lb range or more, I would say yes. If you're a buck fifty or less, I'd say no. It'd probably be too stiff for you.
 

cbx1260cc

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No offense, but how heavy are you?

If you're in the 185 to 200 lb range or more, I would say yes. If you're a buck fifty or less, I'd say no. It'd probably be too stiff for you.
About 208 lbs but trying to get that to that 185 pound number : ) Thank you.

Noticed you are in Suwanee., Ga. I'm in Flowery Branch . Would you consider a face to face meeting one day to share some of your vmax knowledge? All expenses on me of course..
 

cbx1260cc

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I know quite a few people running them that love them. I personally have not tried them most if the guys I know running them are a little bigger than 200
Thank you.
Would the extra 1/2 inch in length adversely affect handling?
Maybe "quicken" steering?
 

Fire-medic

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Maybe "quicken" steering?
Yes.

Your steering head would be less raked-out, steeper, by elevating the rear, so the steering will be quicker. People who are short of inseam or drag racers use shorter shocks than 13" OEM, I've seen as-much as 1-1/2" less in rear shock height, on a VMax, though a general rule of thumb is 1 inch, plus or minus, and to maintain something like stock geometry, do the same in the front as the rear (raise above the top triple tree the fork downtubes, if you shorten the on-center length of the rear shocks). You go anymore, and you start to have issues with ground clearance when cornering, and possible interference between the radiator and front fender.

Since it's hard to lengthen the downtubes (new, longer ones, or 'slugs,' machined inserts attached to the top of the downtube, to replace the top threaded plug, and to provide additional length) when you install the longer rear shocks, give yourself some time to see how they affect handling. Running the shock spring preload a bit softer may minimize the difference in height. Try cornering at various speeds, and in both directions and braking exercises at different rates, and in different directions, L and R to see what changes in vehicle dynamics await you.

I'm no expert in engineering or suspension, these are my own experiences and information gleaned from decades of riding on and off-road.
 
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Parminio

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About 208 lbs but trying to get that to that 185 pound number : ) Thank you.

Noticed you are in Suwanee., Ga. I'm in Flowery Branch . Would you consider a face to face meeting one day to share some of your vmax knowledge? All expenses on me of course..
Sure. Maybe when it warms up a bit we can ride up to Blood Mountain or something.

And the shocks should be good to go as is at your weight.
 

Rollie

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Sure. Maybe when it warms up a bit we can ride up to Blood Mountain or something.

And the shocks should be good to go as is at your weight.
Let me know when you guys meet up.

I agree on putting the Ohlins on and see how it handles for you. It's not hard to change 'em back to whatever you're running now. Who knows , they may already be set up for your weight ( and riding style ) .
 

cbx1260cc

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Yes.

Your steering head would be less raked-out, steeper, by elevating the rear, so the steering will be quicker. People who are short of inseam or drag racers use shorter shocks than 13" OEM, I've seen as-much as 1-1/2" less in rear shock height, on a VMax, though a general rule of thumb is 1 inch, plus or minus, and to maintain something like stock geometry, do the same in the front as the rear (raise above the top triple tree the fork downtubes, if you shorten the on-center length of the rear shocks). You go anymore, and you start to have issues with ground clearance when cornering, and possible interference between the radiator and front fender.

Since it's hard to lengthen the downtubes (new, longer ones, or 'slugs,' machined inserts attached to the top of the downtube, to replace the top threaded plug, and to provide additional length) when you install the longer rear shocks, give yourself some time to see how they affect handling. Running the shock spring preload a bit softer may minimize the difference in height. Try cornering at various speeds, and in both directions and braking exercises at different rates, and in different directions, L and R to see what changes in vehicle dynamics await you.

I'm no expert in engineering or suspension, these are my own experiences and information gleaned from decades of riding on and off-road.

THANKYOU VERY MUCH for sharing your insights and experience. Definitely a good idea to run some practice maneuvers in a closed parking lot or such.
 

cbx1260cc

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Sure. Maybe when it warms up a bit we can ride up to Blood Mountain or something.

And the shocks should be good to go as is at your weight.

Yes I AGREE a bit COOL at the currently

At this time of year was thinking more along the lines of a meet and eat to swap info / bike stories.

Just a thought.
 

El Canadiense

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I ran Ohlins on my 2001 and of course you can use them without setting them up; same as if you chose to have a passenger. It is your option to adjust them for specific riding circumstancea such as your own weight, passengers, gear, road conditions, etc. From my own experience, I didn't see much difference but I am more into touring than racing. There is a youtube site called Dave Moss Tuning that can offer you more expert level tuning knowledge.
 

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