Flywheel

[Bowaleed]

Hello,

I watched an old thread for drag bike build by Karir, he installed a lightweight flywheel for his bike, I don’t know from where he get it if any one knows please tell me, and is it a good mod for the vmax.

also there is OTEC windowed hub rear drive unit in exactrep.com did any one use it and is it worth ?

I’m trying to find any thing to give me more .4 in my ET

I already have 4-1 full hindle exhaust, TT air box mod, nash flash,pcv,pc ignition module, 17” rear wheel with custom rotor, windshield, healtec quickshifter, and i will order air shifter soon, lock up clutch and my wheele bar almost done.
i can’t remove more weight because i use it for street too.

my best was 9.7 from 4 runs only without race fuel, I think I can do better with more runs, i think the wheele bar and race fuel and air shifter will take me to 9.4 or 9.3

if I missed any thing or there is any thing i can do please tell me, i want to get to very low 9s

Regards,

 

[Traumahawk]

Sean Morley is probably the person that would know....with the changes that were done to the battlestar bike.

 

[one2dmax]

The flywheel isn't going to get any more appreciable HP. Your thinking needs to move to other parts of the bike to shave weight.

 

[Bowaleed]

The flywheel isn't going to get any more appreciable HP. Your thinking needs to move to other parts of the bike to shave weight.

thank you Mr.Sean for your reply,
I heard it not giving hp but it gives torque and better acceleration.

 

[one2dmax]

In drag racing I have tended to go with heavier flywheels to use the inertia effect to help keep engine RPM's up and overcome the bogging during launch and shifts. For road racing that requires quick gear changes up and down and response to throttle coming out of a curve for instance then the lighter flywheels are a benefit.

 

[Bowaleed]

In drag racing I have tended to go with heavier flywheels to use the inertia effect to help keep engine RPM's up and overcome the bogging during launch and shifts. For road racing that requires quick gear changes up and down and response to throttle coming out of a curve for instance then the lighter flywheels are a benefit.

now it’s clear to me, thanks Mr,Sean.

 

[Itgoes]

Any OTEC part will likely add weight not subtract it. They are mostly chunky billet pieces.

The air shifter is going to make you faster and if you haven't already you should lower the bike.

Are you running a Shinko Hookup tire?

What are your 60' times and how much do you weigh?

Race fuel or a tune for E85 if it's available where you live would be good for a couple of tenths in the 1/4 mile. For E85 you'd need to make sure the injectors are up to the task because they need to spray a lot more fuel.

 

[Bowaleed]

Any OTEC part will likely add weight not subtract it. They are mostly chunky billet pieces.

The air shifter is going to make you faster and if you haven't already you should lower the bike.

Are you running a Shinko Hookup tire?

What are your 60' times and how much do you weigh?

Race fuel or a tune for E85 if it's available where you live would be good for a couple of tenths in the 1/4 mile. For E85 you'd need to make sure the injectors are up to the task because they need to spray a lot more fuel.

Thank you Mark for your reply,

i will order mps air shifter very soon, just confused between the (mps ignition kill or rsr air shift module (ignition or fuel kill with auto shifting)), I prefer the auto shifting but is it will work with the vmax ?because it is a general kit.

I already lowered it 1” in front and strap it.

i run dunlop q4 190/50 17 and the grip is unbelievable, imagine if the tyre is medium hot you cannot do any burn out because of the grip.

i just do 4 runs, 3 of them i had problems with the shifter, the only one that i did without any problems with it i get 1.615 60’
I will attach my ET result, and my weight is 65 kg unsuited.

I already have mr12 fuel, but I didn’t use it yet, I heard i will do some problems later ( injectors, fuel tank, etc )
i will try boostane ( octane booster) because i already have a pc ignition module, so i can add more timings and they said it can gives 10 hp with good timing in safe way, let’s see what i will get, if it’s not work i will go to mr12.

what Injectors do you recommend? I heard 5.0 not working well.

 

[Bowaleed]

 

[Itgoes]

If you were running here at the tracks I go to, I would say that you are a little down on power based on your mods and weight.

I trap at 140 on a good day, and I'm 175 lbs. unsuited. Trap speed with all other things being equal is the best indicator of how much HP you are making.

With the 17" wheel, I guess you are going through the traps in 5th gear correct?

MR12 race fuel will definitely make you faster. You just need to add about 10% more fuel in your map. It will not damage anything as long as you don't leave it in the tank for an extended period. When using race fuel I would always try to use most of it up at the track, and then just fill up with pump gas afterwards.

Octane boost and more timing might show an improvement BUT you need to be careful to much can destroy your engine.

Your 60' time is good.....if you can get it down another .05 it would be great. Not easy to do I know.

Here is a video of a friend of mine that's about your size running a 9.43 @144. The mods were a Akrapovic mid-pipe (through stock mufflers) a Yamaha race ECU and MR9 race fuel. That was his best time on that bike but regularly ran 9.50's.

 

[Bowaleed]

If you were running here at the tracks I go to, I would say that you are a little down on power based on your mods and weight.

I trap at 140 on a good day, and I'm 175 lbs. unsuited. Trap speed with all other things being equal is the best indicator of how much HP you are making.

With the 17" wheel, I guess you are going through the traps in 5th gear correct?

MR12 race fuel will definitely make you faster. You just need to add about 10% more fuel in your map. It will not damage anything as long as you don't leave it in the tank for an extended period. When using race fuel I would always try to use most of it up at the track, and then just fill up with pump gas afterwards.

Octane boost and more timing might show an improvement BUT you need to be careful to much can destroy your engine.

Your 60' time is good.....if you can get it down another .05 it would be great. Not easy to do I know.

Here is a video of a friend of mine that's about your size running a 9.43 @144. The mods were a Akrapovic mid-pipe (through stock mufflers) a Yamaha race ECU and MR9 race fuel. That was his best time on that bike but regularly ran 9.50's.

I’m sure that i have some power loss but I don’t know from where i lose it, at my first dyno run with only full exhaust and k and n filter and pcv, i got 182 hp after the tuning, then i did TT air box mod and pc ignition module and nash flash and 17” rear wheel and tyre with 4 kg weight save and I went to the same tuner and when he run the bike we got 178hp

I talked to Tim and he told me to check the stacks because maybe it stuck with the side filter of the TT mod, and when I checked it he was right, i cut little from the stacks and i fixed the problem, then I went back to the same tuner and we got 182 again.
I’m sure there is something going wrong, because it’s impossible that the nash flash and 4kg rear wheel and tyre weight loss and TT air box mod and pc ignition module didn’t gave me any hp gain.


Yes i finshed in 5th gear, i will post my run video, i got 9.9 in this run because i had problems with my shifter from 1-2 so i shift by cluch and I didn’t open full throttle because i had big wheele in the previous run when I opened it.

This 60’ was the 4th run on my track experience, I always race in the street, but in the track it’s different story, i think i can get much better with more runs and as i said I already finished my wheele bar just waiting to the final touches.

How can octane boost damage the engine?

 

[Itgoes]

Octane boost will not damage the engine..... advancing the timing too much can though because you can induce pre-ignition.