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Frame braces

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The huntching up.is a shaft drive thing.
At the track.I run solid struts.on the rear.(instead of rear shocks)
No lift from the shaft drive. But tends to want to.spin tire more. Now I need a sticky tire.
Rick Rash runs a 003 shinko....(180) on the stock gen 2 rim. That WILL stick better.
 
Will a gen2 wheel
Fit my gen1?
I hadn't thought of that option. I do have an extra gen1 wheel. Was going to do a car drag tire.

Sorry got confused, thought you were talking about a Gen 2.

What I would do on a Gen 1, is a notched swing arm, and a 17 inch max daddy wheel, or get the stock wheel welded to 17 inches. Then do a 003...190/50ZR-17. That would be sticky and better rpms for drag racing.
 
Sorry got confused, thought you were talking about a Gen 2.

What I would do on a Gen 1, is a notched swing arm, and a 17 inch max daddy wheel, or get the stock wheel welded to 17 inches. Then do a 003...190/50ZR-17. That would be sticky and better rpms for drag racing.
Hmmmm. Changing a stock wheel to a 17.

(Didn't mean to step on your thread)
Soild mounts are worth it.
 
Braces vs Solid mounts is an old debate.
I went with OEM Yamaha aluminum mounts after I read pages and pages of info.
QTY (4) 4XY-15541-00-0
QTY (2) 4XY-15542-00-00

Sean had them in stock.
Fitting them takes some time and a lot of bike disassembly. That's nothing that ever bothered me, I always enjoyed turning a wrench. It wasn't a difficult project but it did take me a weekend. Could be done in a day but I was in no hurry.

After the install and your first couple rides, go over the bike and check for loose fasteners. I noticed quite a few engine cover bolts had vibrated loose. After tightening things 1 time, I never had this issue again.
 
Sorry got confused, thought you were talking about a Gen 2.

What I would do on a Gen 1, is a notched swing arm, and a 17 inch max daddy wheel, or get the stock wheel welded to 17 inches. Then do a 003...190/50ZR-17. That would be sticky and better rpms for drag racing.
Along with Frame Braces the wheel conversion to 17" or 18" is something we can also help with.
 
I was considering solid mounts, as I see this as a far better stiffener from a engineering point of view. But a consequence of replacing my rear shocks with my own fabricated dragstruts, the swingarm will utilise the rear section of the frame as a "monster brace". The bike responded very positively, any tendencies to wobble was eliminated, both at high speed straights, high speed long radius turns, and short radius turns, also with some bumps in them. I realise that rigid rear isn't for anyone, but I think there are some interesting learning relevant for rear shock setups as well in this. That is that bracing that the Vmax responds well on bracing the swingarm, giving far better handling. Yes, I also replaced the fork with a better and shorter fork, but I don't think that this is the only explanation for much improved handling. Anyway, I no longer have any reason for considering solid mounts, or any sort of frame bracing. So I can keep the comfort of having a rubber mounted engine. I was definitely not happy with the handling of the original setup, now I am very pleased and have lots of fun while riding my Vmax on twisty roads. And we have lots and lots of that stuff here in Norway. Any experience here from the guys who have replaced the original swing arm with custom swingarms? Or is this only done to be able to install "barrel size" rear wheels? ;-)
 
Any experience here from the guys who have replaced the original swing arm with custom swingarms? Or is this only done to be able to install "barrel size" rear wheels? ;-)

Yes.
I purchased an extended and braced swingarm from Sean Morley.
I also added radials at the same time.
I can't confirm it was a combination of the parts or one, more than the other but, it definitely eliminated the flex that you could feel while riding hard thru a long turn.
 
Yes.
I purchased an extended and braced swingarm from Sean Morley.
I also added radials at the same time.
I can't confirm it was a combination of the parts or one, more than the other but, it definitely eliminated the flex that you could feel while riding hard thru a long turn.
Thanks for providing more relevant hands on experience, so we all can learn about this topic. Personally I doubt that a 17'' radial tyre setup can disguise the problems that a flexing swingarm will cause for handling. The fact that I experienced a totally different ride experience just by making the rear end torsionally stiff, while keeping the original 15'' rear wheel, supports this. So a well designed bracing of the original swingarm should give a noticeable improvement of handling, whilo keeping the original look. On the other hand, of course I believe that adding a modern tire setup will improve the handling and grip even further. But with my setup I consider myself finished with wobbling, while keeping the taller gearing that the original rear wheel provides, and the distinct "dragbike" styling that the fat 15'' rear wheel gives. In my personally opinion, of course :)
 
My issues of wobble for years....were loose swing arm bearings. I didnt find the issue until I was in the process of changing out to a braced swing arm
 
My '79 CBX still had the factory plastic (yes plastic) swingarm bushings. I replaced them with brass. MAJOR difference. And they were still in good shape. But they were plastic. The point is, that a solidly planted swingarm is critical for decent handling.
 

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