Front brakes catchy

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Biker Dash

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2013
Messages
1,584
Reaction score
3
Location
Waterville, Maine (Equestria)
Having a minor issue with Woona that could easily turn into a disaster.
The front brake lever feels like it is catching, which makes it difficult to have proper control over the use of my front brakes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QL8oqDfmt20

Any thoughts on where it could be causing the binding, or catching? I do need my brakes to operate smoothly once again.
 
Did you try disassembling the pivot pin and cleaning/regreasing everything?
 
Yea, mines doing the same thing. Been on my list to diagnose for a while now. Just hasn't been an issue while riding. Let us know what you figure out.
 
Is the noise coming from the lever/master cylinder or is it really coming from the calipers ?
I can't tell from the video.
I'd clean the caliper pistons and pad retaining pins like FM suggested up really well and see if that fixes the issue.
If it doesn't then you'll need to clean/rebuild the master cylinder.
 
On his and mine it's coming from the master cylinder not the calipers. I would guess that the master cylinder is due for a rebuild.
 
You're right, Lethal, the cylinder kit is only around $40. When you squeeze the lever it feels like the rubber seals have hardened.
 
Cleaning the brake lever pivot pin and regreasing helped immeasurably. There is still a slight bit of it when I squeeze really hard. It could be that the brake calipers could use some cleaning as well, and maybe that will clear up the remaining hitching.

If it comes down to needing a master cylinder rebuild, I think what I would do instead is just order new pieces. While at it, I would get ahold of some braided stainless lines. (might as well do the clutch line at the same time if I do that)
 
While at it, I would get ahold of some braided stainless lines. (might as well do the clutch line at the same time if I do that)

Just be warned that the stock lines are rubber, and so will expand just a bit when you squeeze the lever. After you switch to steel braided lines, they dont expand, so full pressure goes to the calipers. The down side to that, the brakes will lock up sooner than before.

It made the brakes work more on/off in my case.
 
Just be warned that the stock lines are rubber, and so will expand just a bit when you squeeze the lever. After you switch to steel braided lines, they dont expand, so full pressure goes to the calipers. The down side to that, the brakes will lock up sooner than before.

It made the brakes work more on/off in my case.

As long as things work smoothly, that should not be a problem for me.
 
I think mine has an OEM adjustment screw and locking nut. You might inspect where that OEM screw contacts the innards of your master to see if it is still adequately lubed there. If not squawking there, I'd guess your internal rubber to keep the water out of the end of the master assy is getting old & tired.
 
Well, I talked to the guys at Starting Line, and they say it could easily be the Master Cylinder. They also informed me that a rebuild kit is only $40, and it is not a difficult job to do. (hell, if I can rebuild a pair of Mikuni carbs, I should be able to do this job...)

I need to look into new brake lines as well, and exactly what connectors I will need.
 
Found the reason for my catchy front brake lever. The master cylinder piston has a large divit at the spot where the lever presses against it. I replaced with the rebuild kit and now works as smooth as the trigger on my Springfield.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0209[1].jpg
    IMG_0209[1].jpg
    22.3 KB · Views: 20
Back
Top