Front fork air

[[email protected]]

I'm new to this Vmax world and appreciate any advice I can get. I went to check the air pressure level in my front forks. The max I just picked up is a 1986. I find one air valve only and it is on the side of the left (drivers side) fork tube. There is not another matching valve on the other tube. I tested the one I found and the forks had no air in them. I have aired it up to 10 pounds but I did read where you have to be careful to make sure both tubes have the same pressure. I'm wondering if this one single air valve somehow feeds both tubes?

 

[sdt354]

Yes. 1 valve feeds both tubes on early Gen 1's. Air is added with the forks unloaded.

 

[[email protected]]

Good to know... I had it on the center stand when I aired them up.

 

[dannymax]

No air is needed if you have progressive springs, might want to determine that before adding air....prog. springs are a very common mod.

 

[ga_max]

Is it possible to determine if you have progressive springs without pulling them? When I got my 94 a few years ago the fork had no air pressure in them and I assumed the progressives were installed. It would be nice to know for sure.

 

[sdt354]

If someone has a measurement it'd be helpful, because they look the same.

 

[Fire-medic]

If you bottom the forks while riding and they have no air, you probably are stock.

I like the air in the forks, 6-14 psi is the factory setting. Don't add very-much volume, the space is small, and if you have a good compressor a second or two is probably enough to air them up. There are purpose-built manual pumps for this, but just be careful if you use your compressor.

Race Tech is an alternative to Progressive Suspension. Their choices are more-precise, and you can add Cartridge Emulators too, which will give you a much-more plush ride, if you use their front springs and the Cartridge Emulators.
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[dannymax]

I got one of these little pumps for the air shocks on my trike, think it would work perfect for fork air.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...g5_T-plhGFu7aOy-JskUeP53WqrfH3DRoCl0oQAvD_BwE

EDIT- this is the high pressure version, you would want the 0 - 50 lb version or something in that range.

 

[Redbone]

I used to use a Zefal bicycle tire pump to push air into my 1992's forks generally around 12-14 psi. The pressure defiantly helps but not if you push hard over less than great pavement.
Now I use 0 psi because I have added progressive springs, Ricor intiminators, 5-7 weight Belray fork oil(What I could get locally) and lastly adjustable preload fork caps. Oh, and a HD for brace which in my opinion help keep the forks acting a little better so that when you lean into the corner you feel better connected from the handlebars to the wheel, what I call steering precision. They work so much better than when I first started modding the forks, that I can go 20+ mph faster through corners, on the aforementioned less than stellar pavement, with the upgades. Some of the help can be attributed to adding raidials, bracing and lengthening the swing arm by ~3".

 

[[email protected]]

I'm pretty sure the reason of no air isn't progressive springs. I put 10 lbs of air in it and it proceeded to blow out fork oil all over the garage floor. It's in the shop now getting new seals.

 

[sdt354]

I'm pretty sure the reason of no air isn't progressive springs. I put 10 lbs of air in it and it proceeded to blow out fork oil all over the garage floor. It's in the shop now getting new seals.

The front tire was elevated when you put the air to it?

 

[Fire-medic]

I'm pretty sure the reason of no air isn't progressive springs. I put 10 lbs of air in it and it proceeded to blow out fork oil all over the garage floor. It's in the shop now getting new seals.

Did you notice 'wetness' on the slider legs? That would be your fork oil puking up because of bad seals, bad downtubes (rusty, pitted ones) or just age deterioration.

Several things of-which to be-aware:

• rusted, pitted fork downtubes are toast. There is nothing you can do to 'save them.' You have to replace them (the downtubes) and install new seals.
• factory downtubes are ridiculously-expensive, Just say, 'no!'
• Forking by Frank is the traditional answer to new downtubes http://franksforks.com/products/yamaha-fork-tubes/
• any used downtubes you find are likely to be in the same shape as yours. The Brits say, 'knackered,' which is slang for 'used-up.' Replace them.

A reputable shop will inform you if your downtubes need to be replaced. Since you are close-to ocean air, your downtubes will be very-susceptible to deterioration as a result of proximity to salt-laden air, and chips in the chrome of your downtubes. Replacing fork seals on a set of chipped and corroded downtubes is a huge waste of time, money, and effort.

When your forks leak oil, your brake calipers may become saturated, and brake pads and oil do not mix-well! If your brake pads become oily, you need to replace them and to use brake cleaner solvent on both sides of the rotors.