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SENTíNEL

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Hi all,

As winter ebbs and spring approaches, I cannot but help notice the toil the years past has taken on my ‘88 VMAX.

The from the forks are pitting - she’s spent last 2- months in the garage because of personal issues but previously was washed and cleaned weekly.

Any recommendations for polishing out the pitting?

Ride safe.

PAT

P.S. Is this forum no longer available on Taptalk?
 
I have found using a soda blaster saves the hard chrome, but scours-out the rust in the pits.

Realistically, the only long-term fix is probably going to be to replace the downtubes. Try Forking by Frank for replacements. Their online site isn't very useful, you'll probably have to mail them or call them. One thing, cheaper than OEM parts! I think they probably will run you about $400, shipped, but contact them for all pricing/shipping. I've bought from them before.

A couple stop-gaps, I still recommend starting with the soda blasting. Harbor Freight has a cheap set-up. You use bicarbonate of soda, probably the cheapest place to get it for most people will be a pool supply store. Costco also has bags of it which are smaller.

Some people swear-by rubbing balled aluminum foil into the pits, to deposit aluminum into them. I have never tried that.

Something else you could do is to try JB Weld in the pits and using fine sandpaper in higher # grades progressively to try to fill-in the pits, and to smooth them out.

I have used with success some coarse sponge-like material that tilesetters use to remove residue after grouting, Scotchbrite would be a similar product.

I see after posting you're in the UK, Classic Bike Guide probably has some ads in them for downtubes manufacturers.

I would NOT recommend using any-type of steel or even a brass wire wheel to try-to scour the pits. I think you will just make the edges of the pits more-rough. That will eat your seals in short-order should you replace them.

On a bike I once tried a hand-held fine dressing stone, to see if that worked, but I didn't replace the seals. It did seem to take some of the 'edge' off the pits, but once a fork seal is torn, it can and will continue to leak.

A trick the motocross boys use, is to cut a piece out of a plastic milk bottle, and push it below the lip of the seal to try and hook and remove any dirt/debris below the lip of the seal. The plastic should resemble the letter "J." You can buy a tool like that pretty-cheaply, or try making your own.
 
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I have found using a soda blaster saves the hard chrome, but scours-out the rust in the pits.

Realistically, the only long-term fix is probably going to be to replace the downtubes. Try Forking by Frank for replacements. Their online site isn't very useful, you'll probably have to mail them or call them. One thing, cheaper than OEM parts! I think they probably will run you about $400, shipped, but contact them for all pricing/shipping. I've bought from them before.

A couple stop-gaps, I still recommend starting with the soda blasting. Harbor Freight has a cheap set-up. You use bicarbonate of soda, probably the cheapest place to get it for most people will be a pool supply store. Costco also has bags of it which are smaller.

Some people swear-by rubbing balled aluminum foil into the pits, to deposit aluminum into them. I have never tried that.

Something else you could do is to try JB Weld in the pits and using fine sandpaper in higher # grades progressively to try to fill-in the pits, and to smooth them out.

I have used with success some coarse sponge-like material that tilesetters use to remove residue after grouting, Scotchbrite would be a similar product.

I see after posting you're in the UK, Classic Bike Guide probably has some ads in them for downtubes manufacturers.

I would NOT recommend using any-type of steel or even a brass wire wheel to try-to scour the pits. I think you will just make the edges of the pits more-rough. That will eat your seals in short-order should you replace them.

On a bike I once tried a hand-held fine dressing stone, to see if that worked, but I didn't replace the seals. It did seem to take some of the 'edge' off the pits, but once a fork seal is torn, it can and will continue to leak.

A trick the motocross boys use, is to cut a piece out of a plastic milk bottle, and push it below the lip of the seal to try and hook and remove any dirt/debris below the lip of the seal. The plastic should resemble the letter "J." You can buy a tool like that pretty-cheaply, or try making your own.
Some old 35 mm film works too. If the seals are still supple but leaking, good chance it'll fix the leaking.
 
The brand name of the commercially available tool to clean the seals is called Sealmate:

http://sealmate.net/

I have used them with success.

On the other hand, I have rebuilt all of the forks on all my bikes except the Vmax, and now it is leaking so it will be done in upcoming months after I finish my big winter project.
 
Thanks all. At the moment the pitting is more cosmetic than shortening the life of the seals, which I replace annually prior to MoT, possibly quite unnecessarily, but always have done as a matter of course.

I will definitely explore the more plausible options.

Ride safe
 
My vote would be for OEM seals, quality fork oil and replace them when they leak again, I'd wager that they last quite a bit longer than one season, unless it's the kind of pitting that will catch a thumbnail.

I cant recall if 88 is still the same as 85, but I have a set of forks from an 85, if they are compatible I'll unpack them and inspect the uppers. If they would help you, you could get them for shipping and whatever you feel they are worth. They wont work on my 99 anyway. Better they are on the road than clogging up my very limited storage space.
 
My vote would be for OEM seals, quality fork oil and replace them when they leak again, I'd wager that they last quite a bit longer than one season, unless it's the kind of pitting that will catch a thumbnail.

I cant recall if 88 is still the same as 85, but I have a set of forks from an 85, if they are compatible I'll unpack them and inspect the uppers. If they would help you, you could get them for shipping and whatever you feel they are worth. They wont work on my 99 anyway. Better they are on the road than clogging up my very limited storage space.
85 & 88 are the same. 41mm.
 
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1985 to 1992 is the same fork dimension. 1993 to 2007 is the larger 43 mm down tube.
 
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P.S. Is this forum no longer available on Taptalk?[/QUOTE]

No sir, unfortunately not
 
My vote would be for OEM seals, quality fork oil and replace them when they leak again, I'd wager that they last quite a bit longer than one season, unless it's the kind of pitting that will catch a thumbnail.

I cant recall if 88 is still the same as 85, but I have a set of forks from an 85, if they are compatible I'll unpack them and inspect the uppers. If they would help you, you could get them for shipping and whatever you feel they are worth. They wont work on my 99 anyway. Better they are on the road than clogging up my very limited storage space.

If you could have a check out the forks, that would be awesome. We have ice here at the mo, so my VMAX is in he garage until it thaws out a bit, so no urgency, and I’ll have a better idea of the condition of my forks after another winter once I’ve taken her out and given her first clean and polish of the year.

It’s a shame this forum is no longer on TapTalk - at least I can uninstall the app and bookmark this page.
 
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