Genie/Overhead door Motorcycle remote.

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You also have a re-branded Liftmaster 971 series remote.
Three volts only as far as I know.

Does anyone know how to drop voltage from 12 to 3 dc?
I could draw a diagram using a relay, but that would defeat the ability to never change a battery. I don't really know anything about resistors, unless we're talking about the one on the firewall of a 65 chevy truck.
 
yeah i could do i with a relay. the headlight power energizing the relay coil and a set of N.O. contacts in paralell with the button on the remote, correct?
 
Yea, a 12vdc coil relay would work with a NO set to the switch, but you would still have to rely on the battery inside of the remote. It would work, but you may end up changing the battery every year.
 
just wanted to say that i did this mod and it is great! i hit my high beams coming up the driveway and pull straight into the garage, no fumbling around. a GREAT idea!
 
What did you end up doing about the power supply?
Did you wire in a relay, or drop the voltage?
 
I undertand that flicking the high beam switch on then off, with cause the remote to transmit the open / close code to to automatic door opener but does this mean that when the high beam is in normal use, the transmitter is constantly transmitting?
 
On the old dip switch style... yes. It will constantly transmit. The newer code jumping systems will only transmit the same code once.
You can see this by placing the high beams on and watching the door. It will only cycle once and stop.
If it makes you nervious, you can always put it on the horn, or a dedicated switch.
 
I could make these for anyone who wants one for a nominal price. I have a Lift Master with a 3V battery. I have mine hooked up to the high beam, but I can also make them on dedicated switch which could be place semi hidden on the plastic left side cover in between the scoop and steering tube.

I use a 12v relay and keep the battery in place. This means that when the high beam is on the clicker is continuously transmitting. This is true for all units, even though the garage door only goes through one cycle when activated, I tested mine using a spectrum analyzer at work. It's no big deal for me because I almost never use my high beam.

I didn't go with the voltage regulator idea because I don't know how to drop the voltage and current, and I didn't want to fry the circuit board. I recommend the dedicated switch. It's simple, safe and it won't run down the battery.

If someone knows how to make a 3V regulator, please post it with a schematic and I'll give it a whirl. If someone wants me to build one for them, just shoot me a message or email me at [email protected].
 
Correct. The transmitter is always sending as long as it's powered up. I didn't make myself clear that a dip unit could possibly open a unsuspecting home owner's door while running high beam going down the road, but a roaming code probably wouldn't. It shouldn't loose sync unless you cycle it 256 times away from home. Even if you do, a quick on-off on-off should re-confirm the opener/transmitter sync, and it should continue working.

I'd like to know how to build a 3vdc regulator system myself. I can't see selling such a thing if you have to replace the battery every season.
I've thought of using a car phone charger for the process, but with the price of the transmitter, my time, and the charger... I can't see any value in that.
It would end up being $100 bucks, and that's not acceptable.

Good luck man, If you can build the thing or let me know how to convert the power, we could do alright.

The thing sure is nice to have!
 
I looked into the car charger idea too and came to the same conclusion. I've got a buddy who's an EE. I'll see if he can work this out. So far I think mounting a normally open switch were I have my manual fan and t-boost makes the most sense.
 
Reducing the voltage to 3 volt to feed a remote control is something easy, and will cost cents.

Those transmitters only use few miliamperes.
With a 150 ohms 1 W resistor and a 3.3V 1 W diode Zener you will do.

The diode Zener will stabilize the voltage to 3.3 V
We use 3.3 because a 3V zener doesn't exist and 3.3 is the nearest value.

If your remote use other value like 6V or 9V you can replace the value of the Zener, but probably you also need to drop the value of the resistor to get more MA

both components only can cost cents, but I don't know where you can locally get them to avoid expensive shipping cost.

Time ago Radio shack had them but today, I don't know, they almost don't have electronics components anymore.

Other source can be stripping a old PC power supply and try to locate both components from there.

In any case if you got them, remember to measure the output voltage before connect it to the RC transmitter, this is to reduce the probability of a wrong assembly or wrong diode zener.

Don't connect it directly to the motorcycle battery because you will drain the battery when the bike is off, connect to the 12v + of the light bulb or something else that don't have power when the bike is turned off
 

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Not to discount this cool mod but there is a space above the steering head nut that is just large enough for a Genie mini overhead door opener. That's where mine is. I did have to remove the keychain loop from the opener to make it fit and used heavy dty Velcro to hold it in. I only have to remove it when changing battery. Rain and washing bike has never been a problem since it has a roof over its head.
Jim
 

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I got a 12v to 3v converter from "the shack"
3 pins....what gets wired where????
12V-to-3V-Voltage-Converter-Circuit-Diagram.png

(wiring it up to my hi beam)
anyone???
 
I got a 12v to 3v converter from "the shack"
3 pins....what gets wired where????
(wiring it up to my hi beam)
anyone???

I used one of these to power a paintball gun from the hopper's power source. If I remember correctly it's;

B = Voltage in
C = Ground
E = Voltage out

Like this....
 

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I used one of these to power a paintball gun from the hopper's power source. If I remember correctly it's;

B = Voltage in
C = Ground
E = Voltage out

Like this....

AHHHH....I give up!
just burned my finger....hurt like a bitch!
does anyone know and want to wire this up for me if I send it to them?
I am REALLY solder and electrically stupid!
 
AHHHH....I give up!
just burned my finger....hurt like a bitch!
does anyone know and want to wire this up for me if I send it to them?
I am REALLY solder and electrically stupid!

Lemme go to the shack on monday and get a board and the parts to put one together.

If it works for ya, just send your parts back. if it dosn't work for you nothing lost and I'm sure I'll have had some fun putting it together.
 
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