Giving up on Vmax

[Parminio]

OK, so never ran correctly from day 1.

Is engine in standard trim and what is the number on all the jets?

Are spark plugs correct temperature rating?

Again, you could save yourself a lot of grief by simply reading the thread. It's all been done. All of it. Every bit of Q & A you can imagine. Every bit of advice, troubleshooting, instruction, offers, all of it.

He says the same thing today that he said then. Exactly. And all he ever does is the same thing. Exactly.

 

[huw s]

You see, the problem starts here - naming the jets! That's why we need a carb on the bench, one jet out at a time. (A couple can be interchanged accidentally). None of this is hard - has this been said already?

 

[Parminio]

Again, read the thread. Jets are discussed in excess the first three pages of this thread.

 

[02GF74]

He says the same thing today that he said then. Exactly. And all he ever does is the same thing. Exactly.

I give up then but it reminds me of this.

Albert Einstein: The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.

 

[Parminio]

I give up then but it reminds me of this.

Albert Einstein: The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.

LOL. True.

And if you had read this thread from the beginning, you'd see that's exactly what has been going on the entire time, hence my comments.

 

[huw s]

Again, read the thread. Jets are discussed in excess the first three pages of this thread.

Yes, and without pictures that's all that's going on - talking...

 

[Parminio]

Yes, and without pictures that's all that's going on - talking...

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Shall I continue for you?

 

[huw s]

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Shall I continue for you?

No, but you're missing my point - the OP's pictures are the one that's needed, with jet numbers etc..

 

[Redrum]

I don't know these carbs but I've had a lot of issues with running rich because the float was not set correctly and gas was just poring in the motor.

 

[Parminio]

I don't know these carbs but I've had a lot of issues with running rich because the float was not set correctly and gas was just poring in the motor.

The VAST majority of the time, that's exactly what it is on these carbs as well.

A jet will definitely make you run rich. But it's not going to foul your plugs completely out in less than 10 minutes.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Kyle you forgot the most important info. Put COPS on it......fix it right up....lol

It would run 9's then ! LOL & everyone would believe it even though it can't seem to be backed up.LOL

 

[Seve Moreno]

No, but you're missing my point - the OP's pictures are the one that's needed, with jet numbers etc..

My pilot jets are 37.5 all the way around. As for my main jets all I can see on it is 9A. Not sure if that's a size rating. Also the richness got better when I installed a kit from Sean. I belive the gasket under the jet holder was leaking by. As for the spark plugs. I've been getting the cheap ones at atuozone since they are ruined so fast until I get it figured out

 

[Redrum]

I has a float valve on a tiller would either be opened or closed. I pulled the carb like 6 times adjusting and even replaced the float valve. It just would not seat. Probably ethanol ate up the seat. Anyway, I replaced the carb and life was good. However the carb only cost $15 so was easy to give up

 

[Fire-medic]

I has a float valve on a tiller would either be opened or closed. I pulled the carb like 6 times adjusting and even replaced the float valve. It just would not seat. Probably ethanol ate up the seat. Anyway, I replaced the carb and life was good. However the carb only cost $15 so was easy to give up

Please describe this in another way, I'm not-sure what you are saying: "I has a float valve on a tiller"

Because of the position of the carburetor float valve seat, the only way you can see it is with a small dentist's type mirror, or by removal, using a c-clamp and a socket into-which you press the seat. It sounds like you had some gum/varnish on the seat, possibly with a worn-out rubber tip or a sacked-out (it lost its tension, and is now collapsed) float valve.

Ethanol isn't caustic-enough to eat-up a brass float valve seat. Not in any car, truck, motorcycle, lawnmower, chainsaw, or other gas-powered engine on-which I've worked. Maybe you're referring to the viton/rubber tip having deteriorated, on the float valve?

Bottom-line, you replaced something, it was fixed, and in the end, that's all that matters.

 

[Redrum]

Please describe this in another way, I'm not-sure what you are saying: "I has a float valve on a tiller"

Because of the position of the carburetor float valve seat, the only way you can see it is with a small dentist's type mirror, or by removal, using a c-clamp and a socket into-which you press the seat. It sounds like you had some gum/varnish on the seat, possibly with a worn-out rubber tip or a sacked-out (it lost its tension, and is now collapsed) float valve.

Ethanol isn't caustic-enough to eat-up a brass float valve seat. Not in any car, truck, motorcycle, lawnmower, chainsaw, or other gas-powered engine on-which I've worked. Maybe you're referring to the viton/rubber tip having deteriorated, on the float valve?

Bottom-line, you replaced something, it was fixed, and in the end, that's all that matters.

Sorry for the bad English l am on my phone and should have gotten my glasses. The tiller I was referred to was a roto tiller with a Briggs motor. The valve seat was just what looked like a urethane washer. I did replace both the seat and valve but still had issues.

I agree bass will usually just get gas vanished and the rubber on the valve will get hard and not seal.

But the moral of the story is - take a look at the float level adjustment and valve/seat. If one carb is stuck opened you will get a lot of gas dumped into the motor.

An easy way to tell would be to turn the key on, let the pump run, and if gas fills the motor, or dumps out on the ground, that's the problem. Be careful becauze that could hydrolic lock your motor.

 

[Fire-medic]

My pilot jets are 37.5 all the way around. As for my main jets all I can see on it is 9A. Not sure if that's a size rating. Also the richness got better when I installed a kit from Sean. I belive the gasket under the jet holder was leaking by. As for the spark plugs. I've been getting the cheap ones at atuozone since they are ruined so fast until I get it figured out

The jet block gasket can-be ripped in-two, and as-long as the passageways where the fuel/air pass-through are intact, they should work (screws properly-torqued). I don't tear-down a set of carburetors without replacement jet block gaskets on-hand though, as I customarily replace them, because in most instances, they're probably what they left Japan with. Sure, it's possible that a loose screw or two on a jet block, or a too-compressed jet block gasket from over-tightening the jet block hold-down screws, could leak.

 

[02GF74]

Of course it has been already been said (I'm too lazy to scroll back), there is a wire at the base of the needle valve that locates in a tang on the float. It is easy to fit this wrongly.

 

[scout477]

Mine either, especially since the 6-pack on my CBX needs to come out… Again!

I finally put set of 29's on one of mine, Had to play with jets and pipes, Wound up with 15 pilots and 112 mains with a Winning 6-1, DG pipe wouldn't work unless you played with each cylinder.