greased bowl o-rings and diaphragms???????????
- Thread starter DreamV4
- Start date
Help Support VMAX Forum:
I sometimes use a bit of water soluble gel to hold a gasket in-place but that looks like the mechanic likes their bread buttered on both-sides.
Not needed on diaphragms it attracts dirt & dust which hurts performance and wears slides.
LOL That's just what my dad used to do to the Babbitt on his old '37' Ford.
It had a flathead V8 with all sorts of re-usable type gasket/ seal/bearing material that reminded me of strips of oil impregnated leather, shit seemed to last forever as long as it didn't dry out.
When I first got my bike, an '85' that had sat for some years, I thought a non alcohol salve called Burt's Bees actually helped the old dried out vacuum diaphragms out of the stock rack, but LOL I would have never shared that on this forum until you came along DreamV4. Hell while I'm on the big reveal
I have named my bike, given it gender status along with daily pronoun assignment.
It had a flathead V8 with all sorts of re-usable type gasket/ seal/bearing material that reminded me of strips of oil impregnated leather, shit seemed to last forever as long as it didn't dry out.
When I first got my bike, an '85' that had sat for some years, I thought a non alcohol salve called Burt's Bees actually helped the old dried out vacuum diaphragms out of the stock rack, but LOL I would have never shared that on this forum until you came along DreamV4. Hell while I'm on the big reveal
I have named my bike, given it gender status along with daily pronoun assignment.
That's what I thought.
Someone mght have been trying to get the dried rubber gasket to soften and swell.
They sure made a mess, though.
Someone mght have been trying to get the dried rubber gasket to soften and swell.
They sure made a mess, though.
Screwloose
Well-Known Member
You are correct about the person using the blue substance. It was developed for RR when I was a kid working for them. It’s called Hylomar Blue, I use it also to seal many different things. Metal to metal seal is excellent when petroleum is around. But not too sure it’s the right product for this application as although the product is also good for plastic, it may not be the best for seals as there are natural and synthetic based seals around.
Understand that that gasket $14+ each but cleaning that stuff off looks to be a bear. I lightly coat a bit of lithium soap on engine gaskets but have to agree with Dan-o on using this on carb rubbers.
I think ScarJo used some Hylomar
Screwloose
Well-Known Member
I think ScarJo used some Hylomar
/QUOTE]
Well spotted. It's for semi-hard uses, if that's a bonus! Oh and be careful of sticking anything in there as it may take a long time getting it out as the product has fairly high bonding abilities. Data below.
Last edited:
Screwloose
Well-Known Member
I've always veered away from using Hylomar Blue on thin elastomer seals as the instructions do not venture into that subject, some people have used it in that area with great success. So using it is more than likely okay for thin elastomer seals, it's definitely okay on metals.
Looking at the manufacturers MSDS for the recommended removal product, it has acetone in it, so means raiding someone's beauty kit. But I'm not sure whether elastomer seals can stand acetone as it's a very strong product. I generally clean seals and metals/plastics (and so on) with IPA (pure alcohol) as it leaves no residue, it's a bit weak on removing strong products like Hylomar but is my first choice and I usually try that first.
Having said the above, here is what I would do, and it is purely experience nothing more. Wipe the area of the seals under question with cellulose thinners to remove unwanted products, then have ready some IPA to wipe down immediately after. I've never damaged a seal using this method.
Hope it goes okay.
