higher revs = lower volts?

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jethrobolas

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Soldered the crimp because I was at 12.3 volts at idle and not much better at 2500 rpm. After the fix, I am getting mid 13s at idle. Goes up to 14.6 at around 2200, then starts dropping steadily back to about 13v at 5k rpms. Is this right? The bike has a finned black rr, but it is a 4 wire shunt rr that a po added a ground wire that attaches to one of the mount screws for the rr.


Had to get a jump last Saturday. Nervous now.
 
That does sound right. That's what mine does since the crimp fix. And no battery problems since. My voltage increased by .9v similar to you.
 
mine did the same thing, unless you are having battery issues, i wouldn't worry about it
 
Excellent. Thank you guys. Did some searching and couldn't come up with an answer. Damn, could have rode into work today.
 
I think there is more work to be done, if you read thru this excellent write up you should be able to achieve 14 volts. Do everything in this write up except replacing the R/R. I don't think your voltage will pass with the rad fan running.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108

i do agree, i think it COULD get better, however the voltage the OP was talking about is the same thing I saw and since I had a good battery, was never stranded (6 years).
 
I had 3 problems with voltage over 1.5 years. last time was my battery.

My voltage with fan and head light on is in the pictures. When the fan kicks in with the lights on. It will drop down to about 13.5 to 6 and then start going back up to 14 volts with everything on.
 

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You have a healthy charging system.......


I had 3 problems with voltage over 1.5 years. last time was my battery.

My voltage with fan and head light on is in the pictures. When the fan kicks in with the lights on. It will drop down to about 13.5 to 6 and then start going back up to 14 volts with everything on.
 
Shit. Ok. My fan runs endlessly once the bike is warmed up. Fan switch won't even let the temp gauge NEAR halfway.
 
PO must have installed a lower temp fan switch.....too low. Contact [email protected] for the right fan switch. If your fan comes on and you don't have a healthy charging system, more than likely your bike stumbles when taking off at a stop sign/red light.....
 
Gonna be raining today, so maybe I have a chance to rewire the whole damn thing like the thread by Rawarrior spells out.

Been killing some biggies on the honey-do list like timing belt and spark plugs (did you know you need to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the plugs) on the wife's mini van, roof repair, and yesterday I get home after work to her telling me that a tree needs to come down NOW! I've been trying to get authorization to remove that damn tree for 2 years. She was in love with it because it was a big old messy ass mulberry tree. It has slowly been falling over, roots coming up out of the ground and all. Finally she realized its about to crush the chicken coop. It moved A LOT the last day or too.
 
Park the van under the tree and let the hose run on the roots, kill 2 birds with one stone....:eusa_dance:
 
Thought I had a 4 wire. I was wrong. Sh number but fins and a ground.:ummm:
 

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Hardwired the rr to the stator and battery. Eliminated connectors, shortened wires as needed and soldered all connections between wires. Grounds cleaned, greased and tightened. 12.6 volts at battery no-load.

14 volts at idle. 16 volts at 4k. Spiked to 17 volts at 6k. What the hell is going on?!

Are you guys seeing numbers like this? Will this fry my battery, bulbs, cdi and hid ballast?
 
It sounds like your R/R is not doing it's job. Your stator is pushing out the voltage but it is not regulating it down to the required voltage. Now that you have all the connections cleaned and properly soldered it should be in good shape to do it's job. I just updated mine to a 07 R1 style mofset FH012aa (actually came off a Rhino) which yielded 14.4 @ 3k rpm and 13.3-5 at idle. Yamaha's part number is 1D7-81960-00-00

Here is a link to one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-08-09-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdaba4c26&vxp=mtr

The connectors may be a little different but Gannon (88vmx12) can get you hooked up with connectors. Eastern Beaver also has a wire loom made up: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html
I was able to use EB part b alternator connector to my stator wiring since I still had a good connector.
I mounted my R/R under my LH scoop (moved my vboost controller and connector up under the TCI) and it is working out well. I'll shoot some pictures of the setup later today.
Pic 1 is of the R/R mounting location.
2014-06-05 12.49.39.jpg

Pic 2 shows the 30 amp fuse bolted to a coil mount.
2014-06-05 12.49.47.jpg

Next pic is of the stator wire connection (white connector) and the + & - wires that connect R/R to battery pos and neg terminals. (corrugated wire cover)
2014-06-05 12.50.16.jpg
 
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If you are sure your volt meter is accurate, then 17 volts is too much. I'd be ordering a new R/R.
 
Thought I had a 4 wire. I was wrong. Sh number but fins and a ground.:ummm:

That is a after market 1......

I bought the r1 08 and install it under my seat rear.

Mosfets R/R that I no of are - FH020 FH012 FH011 FH010 FH009 FH008
any r/r with the FH in front of the number is a mosfet..
 
but why did your bike need a jump start. might want to check or chg your batt as the charging system seems ok.
 
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