HMF Install

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vmaxinID

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Hi Everybody!!!

I picked up an HMF "2D9S" full system, nearly new and I'm about to do the install.

What else do I need to install it, all I got was the pipes and cans with mounting bands and clamps.

Exhaust gaskets? Where should I buy them if needed?
Sealant? for where they slip together? What kind, if needed.

Did HMF send out instructions for install manual? i.e. torque rating for bands
If so can somebody send me a scan of it?
 
vmaxinID said:
Hi Everybody!!!

I picked up an HMF "2D9S" full system, nearly new and I'm about to do the install.

What else do I need to install it, all I got was the pipes and cans with mounting bands and clamps.

Exhaust gaskets? Where should I buy them if needed?
Sealant? for where they slip together? What kind, if needed.

Did HMF send out instructions for install manual? i.e. torque rating for bands
If so can somebody send me a scan of it?

You typically should be able to reuse the old gaskets unless you have a very high mileage Max or they gt damaged during install. Mine stayed in place and I never took them out during the install.

As far as I know there is not any sealant needed on any of the slip fit connections. Even the ones on mine that slip fit only without any clamp don't leak. The exhaust is so low restriction that there is not a lot of pressure trying to push it's way out.

tools I found handy
3/8 drive allen head socket that fits the exhaust flange allen head nuts. I took mine and cut the allen head to minimum and also ground down the body of the socket part to be narrow enough to make things easier.
a 3/8 swivel and a couple of 6 to 8 inch 3/8 extensions will pretty well get the job done.

Torque I don't know about, I go by feel. I know the UFO came with zero instruction.


HMF is Sweet, it's what I originally wanted in carbon cans.
 
Thanks man, quick response.

Just a wonderin' about the sealant cause their was some orange residue around the fittings. It looked like sealant.

She's a 99 with 6500 in mileage, so gaskets most likley ok?
 
vmaxinID said:
Thanks man, quick response.

Just a wonderin' about the sealant cause their was some orange residue around the fittings. It looked like sealant.

She's a 99 with 6500 in mileage, so gaskets most likley ok?


Mine's a 99 also and it has 24000 and they were ok.

I bought mine used also and also found a little orange residue (it looked like RTV type silicon gasket sealant) on the flange lip where they go into the head. I don't know if the guy I bought it from did it or where it came from.

If it was RTV that stuff will not hold up to exhaust applications. Somebody else may know but I don't know of any paste/liquid type sealant that will withstand being used on the pipe to head connection, nor should any be needed if the pipes mate up to the head correctly and the gaskets are in good shape.
Before you fire it up make sure all the grease/handprints/ or anything else is off the exhaust or they can leave a permanent stain on the pipe when they burn in, especially on ceramics.

Something else I have heard helps if you want to slow down the color change on your exhaust is spraying high temp engine paint down the inside of the pipe. I forgot to do this on mine before I installed it so don't know if it's effective or not.
 
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100% pure silicon will NOT burn and can be bought at the hardware store in large tubes for very cheap. We've used it for a lot of different things when no gasket was available.

Sean
 
Exhaust gaskets are a good idea. Get them from University Motors in ND. Contact info is at www.v-max.com on the discounts page. If they're well made, sealant shouldn't be necessary. Don't worry about the torque of the bands. Snug is good enough.
 
I just redid my UFO's black and I am wrapping them with black header wrap,It'll still have the polished HMF cans.
 
Ok, Ok almost done here.

Are all 4 of the gaskets the same size?
3GD-14613-00-00

or are the rear ones 1FK-14613-00-00?
 
vmaxinID said:
Ok, Ok almost done here.

Are all 4 of the gaskets the same size?
3GD-14613-00-00

or are the rear ones 1FK-14613-00-00?


Don't have clue on that one. If I get the chance I'll pull it up on microfiche. When you install an aftermarket exhaust the rear cylinders usually do away with the adapter thingie (not sure about the HMF but I know Marks and UFO do away with it) but in any case I used whatever was already in the pocket on the head after making sure they had not fallen out when I pulled the old exhaust.

OK, I just looked at the microfiche and the 1FK is a steel ring they are calling a gasket that goes in between the adapter and the rear pipe. You should not need it . Even if you did need it is a steel ring and virtually indestructible.

The 3gd is the gasket that fits into the pocket or relief cut into the head to hold it and they appear to all have the same part number for all four cylinders even though they are listed in two different columns. I think it's that way so they don't duplicate reference numbers on the blowup diagram.

Did you get Aluminum cans or the Carbon ones??

Damn I love Carbon Fiber!!!!
 
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Gaskets are the same all around. Look closely, the tappered end goes towards the exhaust port. The flange and all the other ugly stock parts aren't used including the metal battery box heat shield.
 
I got the polished aluminim with the vector end caps.

It was a sweet deal, I think I paid $650 delivered.
 
maleko89 said:
Gaskets are the same all around. Look closely, the tappered end goes towards the exhaust port. The flange and all the other ugly stock parts aren't used including the metal battery box heat shield.


No kidding about looking closely, I did pull one of mine out to examine the condition of it and until I put it under my shop desk magnifier I couldnt see the taper.

It's really easy to miss.
 
one2dmax said:
100% pure silicon will NOT burn and can be bought at the hardware store in large tubes for very cheap. We've used it for a lot of different things when no gasket was available.

Sean

thanks for the info Sean,

Are you talking about the kind that has salicylic acid in it that's usually orange when it's got a high temp rating?? it has a really sharp acrid odor (smells good to me)
That's what I've been using for years on water pumps, intake manifolds, engine cases, valve covers etc but tried it on car header installation once and didn't have very good luck. it didn't really burn up it just wouldn't hold it's shape or stay in place, sorta wanted to "blow out" and seemed to me to be more suitable for "thin film" applications...I suppose if the mating surfaces are more regular and even/flat than the typical small block chevy header install it probably would hold up. I know the temp rating is good enough it was more of a "stay where you put it issue"

I'm always open to trying something new especially when it comes to making something work even though I don't have exactly the right gaskets.....
 
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