How do I remove this fitting to add oil?

[rebar]

Here's a pic. It looks like its four parts. Blue Nipple threaded into the oil cap. Blue nut on that. Thin blue nut. And then the red nut.

I tried to hold the thin blue nut and loosen the red. It started to turn but wanted to turn the braided hose.:damn angry:

What's the correct way to remove this so I can add oil?:confused2:

Thanks

 

[Redbone]

I'd try turning the oil cap and holding the red nut on the hose. I'm thinking that the blue fitting will spin.:confused2:

 

[rebar]

Thanks Brian. I had to hold the cap and loosen the blue nut.

I did what you suggested and that twisted the braided.

 

[COP RUNNER]

YEAH , THOSE FITTINGS CAN BE A PAIN IN THE ASS SOMETIMES , ! .. ALL OF THE STOCK CARS THAT I WORKED ON HAD THEM ON EVERYTHING , AND AFTER A CRASH , WHILE THE YELLOW FLAG IS OUT , WERE IN THE PITS TRYING TO FIX SHIT SO WE CAN GET BACK OUT AND SOMETIMES IT MADE IT HARDER TO WORK ON THEN IF THEY JUST HAD REGULAR RADIATOR HOSES & POWER STEERING HOSES ! ... :confused2: .. BUT THEY DEFINITELY LOOK MUCH COOLER ! .. unk:.. AND IF YOU NOT IN A HURRY THEY ARE GREAT ! .. unk:

 

[rebar]

Yea Pain in the ass but look cool. Probably not the best choice for racing.

Problems begin when trying to hold the oil cap. Wrench wont hold it, and its polished so I cant grab with pliers.:ummm: Next time's gonna be fun. :biglaugh:

Even worse.. I want to know where that 3/4's of a quart went after about 750 miles.:confused2: Some of those miles were shift light miles.

 

[COP RUNNER]

TO HOLD THE POLISHED OIL CAP , IF YOU CAN GET INTO THAT SPOT WITH LONG NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS , SLIDE LIKE 3/8 OR 7/16 FUEL LINE OR EVEN THAT CLEAR TUBING YOU CAN GET FROM A HARDWARE STORE UP THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE JAWS OF THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS , THEN IF YOU CAN GET TO IT , YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO HOLD IT WITHOUT IT GETTING MARKED UP ! .. PS. I HAVE A DISCLAIMER TO ALL OF MY ADVISE ! ... I ONLY PRINT IT OUT WHEN IT DOESN'T WORK ! .. :rofl_200:.. BUT SERIOUSLY , THAT CLEAR TUBING IS PRETTY TOUGH & SHOULDN'T LEAVE A MARK ! .. unk:

 

[one2dmax]

The big blue nut will let the complete hose come loose (the nut should turn and let the hose remain in place). Then turn the whole cap like normal. No big deal. They make no mar wrenches to keep from messing up the anodizing.

Sean

 

[Redbone]

Try my setup instead of all that hardware try using the Stage 7 barbed oil cap with braided hose and a -10 AN Earls' econ-o-fit hose clamp fitting. Simple to use and looks great.unk:
The 3' SS hose ($21.88) and fitting($8.99) cost $40.82 w/ shipping from Summit.

 

[one2dmax]

The setup he has will work great and once he turns the right nut he will see how well it works. It's a true braided line and probably $60-$80 worth of parts to get what you see there.

Sean

 

[sidwin]

so someone uses the oil fill cap for an oil return line for a turbo?

 

[one2dmax]

It could be used as that but likely they are using that to ventilate the crankcase pressures (and maybe even tying into the PCV system similar to what our system does).

 

[Redbone]

As Sean mentioned, I am using my setup for my Morley Muscle jet kit. I need to find a gloss black barbed fitting that I can put a wrench on to replace the knurled oil cap. Sean do you know off hand what the size is for the screw in portion of the oil cap?

 

[rebar]

No air box.. Maxair coming.

 

[one2dmax]

Sorry, don't remember. Maybe Jeff H can ask the machinist that makes them for me.

Sean

 

[Woody]

Try my setup instead of all that hardware try using the Stage 7 barbed oil cap with braided hose and a -10 AN Earls' econ-o-fit hose clamp fitting. Simple to use and looks great.unk:
The 3' SS hose ($21.88) and fitting($8.99) cost $40.82 w/ shipping from Summit.

same set up I use.
i always remove the hose from the top connection . i use a normal hose clamp

on the top. no one ever see's it. then pull the hose out of the frame and untwist the filler cap.