How do I wire up a 2008 R1 R/R? 3 wires + second connector..

[nidyanazo]

I heard of people swapping out the R/R for the R1 version.. I got the 2008 R1 R/R, but cant find and write ups on how to install it. I see it has 2 plugs- on the left plug it;s 3 wires of all the same color, and the other plug is a red and black wire.

So adapting it to my 91' max', do I just solder the 3 wires on, then connect the red and black wires directly to the battery? :ummm:

Thanks fellas'!

 

[Traumahawk]

Here is the thread that you are looking for.

http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108

 

[nidyanazo]

Here is the thread that you are looking for.

http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108

Awesome! Thanks for the link! So my guess was right, 3 wires to the stator, and the red/black hook up to the battery direct. I've done all the other wiring mods, eliminating redundant connectors and the crimp, so this will finish off the electrical system upgrades. Thanks again bud!

 

[Traumahawk]

Your welcome.

 

[jagco1]

Info more....

 

[nidyanazo]

Ok i ran into a problem... I cut the 5 wires going to my stock R/R.

3 of them are the stator wires, but the other 2 are red and black wires that lead back to the wire harness.. What should I do with those?

 

[nidyanazo]

Looks like one of them was a ground- but I have a "4 wire" R/R, which is 3 stator wires, and one red wire... So where should that red wire go?

 

[Traumahawk]

The red wire should go to the positive side of the battery.

 

[nidyanazo]

Looks like the red wire runs back to the "splice" and the 30A big fuse next to the battery... and the black is a ground... So I should just be able to hook those up into the new R1 R/R along with the 3 stator wires and be all set... No need for a new 30A fuse, it'll just utilize the stock one!

 

[nidyanazo]

The red wire should go to the positive side of the battery.

What I mean is the red wire that was originally attached to the stock R/R.. That I cut.. (see my last post) That wire is now loose, and runs back to the "crimp" and the stock big 30A fuse right next to the battery... I should be able to just hook it into the new R1 R/R along with the ground, and be okay.... What do you think?

 

[nidyanazo]

Well something is not right because now when I turn the key, there is NO POWER at all to the electrical system. no lights, no horn, no fuel pump, nothing.

 

[Traumahawk]

Can you post a pic of your set up....that way everyone can "see" how things are hooked up?

 

[nidyanazo]

I just hooked back up the old R/R, and turned the key. NOTHING. It rode perfectly fine this morning, right before I started this project. Is there some "master fuse" I could have blown? All the little fuses are fine.

 

[jagco1]

Well something is not right because now when I turn the key, there is NO POWER at all to the electrical system. no lights, no horn, no fuel pump, nothing.

Check 30 fuse amp make sure it did not pop....

Each stator is hook up 1 on 1 3 wiring hook up

Plus from battery to inner spade on r/r
Negative battery ti outer spade on r/r

 

[nidyanazo]

Yup. one of the 2 main 30A was blown. Now hooked up the new RR and getting 13.9V at idle, up to 14.2-14.4V at 2500,3000rpm. Sweet. I'll post pics tomorrow. Thanks guys!

 

[Bill Seward]

There is only one fuse in the 30A fuse block. The other is a spare... TIP: Carry a couple more. They don't go too often, but yer screwed if you are messing with the wiring, and you blew the spare you used earlier. Just tape them with a bit of duct tape under the seat somewhere.. Trust me... (enough said!)

 

[jagco1]

Check the main 30amp fuse over top the battery on the lift....

My r/r is connected the yellow spade going to the fuse 30 amp then to the battery.

My r/r install like this my stator wiring is running around the right side near the top of the gas tank.

R/R wiring is running around the right side to the battery my 30amp fuse is install on the plus side wiring of the stator screw in to the frame under the fake tank in the picture it's on the lift side red wiring black case is the r/r fuse.

Install a added ground wire to the frame clear wiring...
I also install cushion over top of the battery under the coils so battery won't bounce and hit it.

See pictures...

 

[nidyanazo]

There is only one fuse in the 30A fuse block. The other is a spare... TIP: Carry a couple more. They don't go too often, but yer screwed if you are messing with the wiring, and you blew the spare you used earlier. Just tape them with a bit of duct tape under the seat somewhere.. Trust me... (enough said!)

Good call bill. I spent an hour getting everything all neatly wired up just to turn the key and......Nothing.

 

[Redbone]

Here is my FH012aa from a Rhino ($45 online) which is mounted under the LH scoop with waterproof connectors from Eastern Beaver. I have the 30 amp fuse mounted on a vacated coil mount.

 

[nidyanazo]

Hey Redbone, That mounting under the scoop/cover for your R/R is brilliant! Really clean looking setup ya got there man. I never thought it would fit under there! Now I'm going to have to move mine lol.

Well i added extra ground straps, and a high flow fuel filter with clear sight and cleanable. Here's the pics (nothing to great, but the charging voltage is top notch, and the starting perfect, so I'm happy!) I was able to optimize the stock wiring, and utilize the stock fuse- so no extra wires. I shortened everything as much as possible, removed redundant connectors, and eliminated the crimp.

Just in case, I also have a quick connect battery charge connector under the seat that tucks up and away nicely too.