How do you remove the wheel bearings?

[BuzzW]

I'm just starting the project to replace front/rear tires, brake rotors and pads on my newly acquired '95 Max, and decided to replace the wheel bearings and grease seals while everything was apart. It has 45,000 miles on it and has been rode hard and put away wet lots of times.

I've done a forum search with no luck regarding how to remove the front wheel bearings. I cannot figure out how to knock them out , and hope that those who have have done it can share the "secrets" with me.

The wheel is off, grease seals and speedo drive removed. I can see and "wiggle" the spacer tube between the bearings, but there does not seem to be a way to knock either bearing out. Is some sort of special tool required?

I have not gotten to the rear wheel yet, so any words of wisdom on removing/replacing those bearings will be appreciated also.

 

[naughtyG]

I did my front wheel bearings last year - just use a long flat screw driver or similar and hit the first bearing from the opposite side (from inside) making sure to move it around and hit it just once or twice in each spot. It pops out pretty easy. Then once the first one's out, remove the spacer, move the wheel around and hit it from the other side.

Make sure to rest the wheel on some 2x4 wood or similar - I did mine resting the rotors on 2x4 flat on the ground.

To drive the new bearings in, use a socket of appropriate size (as close as poss to bearing outside diameter) - it must fit good or you'll damage the new bearings! Also don't forget to insert the spacer after the first bearing has been replaced..

Lastly, make sure to get OEM bearings from Yamaha, the cheap ones are never worth the saving.

I haven't done my rear wheel yet, but I'm sure others will chime in. Having said that - have you checked the bearing for play and roughness? If there's no play or roughness then you're prolly ok to simply clean and repack with fresh grease!

 

[gamorg02]

enjoy?

 

[BuzzW]

Thanks for the info. I tried the long screw driver & drive from the other side (actually I used a long drift punch) approach, but the bearing would not move. Due to the spacer, there isn't much of the inner race exposed to hit against.

 

[davidon]

Can try slide hammer puller as well..whoops forgot the spacer is there...don't have my Haynes handy to check but you gotta get that spacer to move to get to the bearings

 

[naughtyG]

hmm now that I think of it the spacer was missing in my front wheel, which most probably made it a lot easier to get the first bearing out..

Since you're going to replace the bearings, you could try hitting the middle of the opposite side bearing (destroying it), in order to get the spacer to start dislodging the other bearing, giving you a little surface to tap it on.

 

[godsend1]

I put the drift partially through one side, then hammered against the side of the drift. This cocked the spacer and pushed one of the bearings out.

 

[m-cman]

Wait till you get to the rear bearings. They are much harder to R/R than the front. (Particularly the needle bearing). :bang head:

 

[Elimax]

I bought the Motionpro bearing removal/installation kit. It's inexpensive, and I use it all the time. Here's the link:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0269/

Elimax

 

[gamorg02]

how exactly does that one work?

like this?

http://www.dansmc.com/wheel_bearing_remove.jpg

how does the end 'bolt' thing stay in before u get the chisel in? or is it very close to size and as you pound the chisel it expands and pulls the bearing? i assume it completely destroys the bearing?

this isn't a bad set for $20 more either:

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&brandId=294&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webTypeId=140&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=20342

and a harbor freight version:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...cpc&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=95987

 

[gamorg02]

heres another version:

http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html

and a review:

http://www.4strokes.com/reviews/pitposse/wbremover/

 

[Mightymouse]

enjoy?

Be careful with those instructions.They screwed me over.

1. Do not drive out the needle bearing with the spacer. you will scratch up the spacer.
2. After everything is out, orientate the wheel with the sealed bearing side facing up. Drop the spacer in first. There's a hollow circular piece on one end of it. Make sure the hollow part of it faces up.
3. Then drive the sealed bearing in.
4. Install the circlip.

Those directions tell you to drive the sealed bearing in first. This is wrong. If you do that you will not be able to install the spacer.

I just saved you $44. You're welcome.

 

[rebeltaz83]

Be careful with those instructions.They screwed me over.

1. Do not drive out the needle bearing with the spacer. you will scratch up the spacer.
2. After everything is out, orientate the wheel with the sealed bearing side facing up. Drop the spacer in first. There's a hollow circular piece on one end of it. Make sure the hollow part of it faces up.
3. Then drive the sealed bearing in.
4. Install the circlip.

Those directions tell you to drive the sealed bearing in first. This is wrong. If you do that you will not be able to install the spacer.

I just saved you $44. You're welcome.

This thread is ten years old.

 

[Fire-medic]

I have the pit posse system, and am very-satisfied w/it.

 

[Jiro]

I used Expansion bolt (the ones used for fixing into concrete M-12) Pretty much effortless. Available at every DIY shop.
Hope this Helps