Discussion in 'Motor' started by 6spdbbody, May 30, 2007.
Fantastic, thanks for the great info Jan Bee. Cheers!
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4 qts in every change for 32 years....
Gallon of rotella 15w40 and a bosch 3323 filter. Done.
I use the NAPA Gold filters (WIX) but any quality filter and some good ol' conventional Rotella 15-40 is what she likes. I seem to get my cleanest shifting with the dino version. I get the oil level right about 1/2 or 2/3 up the sight glass, it leaves a little backwash from 4 qts usually.
I use the Boshe 3323 because it is large and holds lots of oil filtering material. Filter do have some cooling effect too. So again the bigger the better for me. For oil, only 15w-40 Rotella in my 89. It seems to shift very well and finding neutral is good, and noticably better after some fresh oil. 1/2 way up the sight glass, then a little bit more, does it.
Rotella 15w40 is supposed to be a Diesel oil isn't it?
Eric, it is marketed for diesel applications but it's a great oil for any high performance/high load engine, particularly older one's like ours. It also contains a lot of Zinc which is good for our motors. Synthetics and particularly those being marketed as good for increasing fuel economy are too slippery for our wet clutches. Great for our engine internals but not so much for our clutches. There has been much discussion on this site and hours of reading and links. At the end of the day most every option has been tried and through that trial and error Rotella 15w40 is overwhelmingly the most recommended oil for our gen 1 vmax's.
Traveler 15/40 works well too. I've used that oil in both the Max and Roadstar on occasion.
I agree! I've used Shell Rotella 15-40 for years in everything - tractors, mowers, cars and motorcycles and never had an oil-related engine problem. Only time it may not be a good choice would be up north during a really cold spell, where you would use a lighter weight oil.
Yes, that is hows its marketed.
Not made to be put in anything running a catalytic converter.
Works great in anything with a wet clutch like the GEN1 VMax.
Any the Grizzly 450
And the tractor
And the KLX140
And the pit bike.
I don't use it in my polaris ATV. It calls for a full synth (no wet clutch), or my wifes car.
Thank you for answers. Something else, do you know you are supposed to use the bottom screw of the left rear crankcase cover to remove an other cup of oil, don't lost the copper gasket washer one the screw. For this you have to remove the foot step.
You can get a little more oil from there though it's not a large amount.
The more dirty oil I remove even only a cup is a good thing for me.
Just remember, car oil is missing various silicone additives and inhibitors, which are crucial for the clutch, since it spins in the oil, cooled by the oil and kept wet by the oil. Without those additives, your plates will not swell nor remain pliable. I tried a test on my old R1 race bike, by going with a synthetic type car oil, and a Deustch filter, slung two bearings, during race practice, since then, stayed with the oil the bike was designed to use, no more slung bearings.
Rotella T or T4?
Rotella T is the original name for the conventional oil many folks here like to use.
At some point in time, Shell re-branded the Rotella T and decided to call it Rotella T4
Rotella T and Rotella T4 are the same stuff.
T5 is a synthentic blend
T6 is a full synthtetic.
It was just to be sure. Thank you
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