How to change your water pump seals

Discussion in 'How To Guides' started by donnelly317, Aug 7, 2012.

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  1. Aug 7, 2012 #1

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

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    Well I had coolant seaping from the wheep hole on my water pump. Couldnt find anything on how to change the seals on here so I took a bunch of pictures while doing it. It was really easy everything was in the manual just not the greatest for pictures. Hope this helps some of you guys out. Sorry some of the pictures were a little blurry.

    These are the parts you will need ( Thank you sdt354 )
    I ordered everthing threw http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp
    It was easy enough to just copy and paste P/N's instead of looking at a fiche.

    PRODUCT INFORMATION:

    Mfg Product Number: 93306-00004-00 (Koyo 6000)
    Description: BEARING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 1

    Mfg Product Number: 93101-10090-00
    Description: OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 1

    Mfg Product Number: 11H-12438-10-00
    Description: SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 1

    Mfg Product Number: 93211-16591-00
    Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 1

    Mfg Product Number: 214-11198-01-00
    Description: GASKET for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 1

    Mfg Product Number: 3JP-12449-02-00
    Description: GASKET,WATER PUMP for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 1

    Mfg Product Number: 93210-27778-00
    Description: O-RING for 1989 YAMAHA VMX 1200
    Order Quantity: 2










    Drain the coolant out of main system
    • Remove Faux cover
    • Remove Right scoop
    • Remove coolant cap behind right scoop
    100_0848.jpg
    Align the coolant drain valve to the "on" turn to the left till you feel it click now your ready to drain.

    2012-08-04_09-12-52_980.jpg
    Remove the drain plug underneat water pump. Make sure you have a catcher there because it will poor out of there. I made a slight mess :bang head:

    100_0865.jpg
    Once she is all drained out you want to remove the water pump assembly remove these allen bolts. I found it easier to remove the cover then the pump assembly. It wont just fall off you gotta work it off. It will come loose just the gasket holdng it on there.

    100_0849.jpg

    100_0851.jpg

    100_0852.jpg
    These three pictures are what it will look like once you get the assembly off

    2012-08-04_14-23-07_296.jpg
    These are the tools I used to disassemble the pump

    100_0853.jpg
    First remove the snap ring on gear side then remove the gear and the locking pin from Impeller shaft

    100_0854.jpg
    After that there is another snap ring to remove then you can pull out the impeller and shaft. Giving you acess to the seals and bearing.

    100_0855.jpg
    After the impeller is removed I was able to pull out the rubber mechanical seal and didnt realize there was an outside metal piece around this seal thats "tightly fit" into the housing. So no need to remove that rubber like I did youll be able to tap it out together as one piece.

    I used an aluminum punch to tap out the bearing in the direction of the picture above. Cam out pritty easy. after that is removed you can remove the black rubber seal from behind the bearing with a hook pick.

    Once you get the bearing and the black rubber seal from behind the bearing out you can flip housing over and use the punch to tap out the mechanical seal.

    100_0856.jpg
    You will end up with these pieces :biglaugh:

    100_0857.jpg
    This is just a picture with everything removed. this is a good point to scrap off any gasket left on the assembly from the crankcase if ther is any. Remember do not do not use a screw driver you will gouge the surface and it will effect the sealing. Use a plastic or fenolic scraper

    100_0858.jpg
    Now get the new mechanical seal out. I used a 1" socket to tap it into place with the mallet. You can use a vise or C-clamp if you prefer but just tap it in as even as possible.

    100_0864.jpg
    Once the seal is in place it will look like this :clapping:

    100_0863.jpg
    then install the new seal underneath bearing then tap bearing into place with mallet. A socket will probably work well for this also I did not use one.

    100_0861.jpg
    Last seal is on the impeller shaft. Use a small flat head to pry it out and then install new seal.






    Its all pritty strait forward but here is a few tips
    • use Clean antifreeze to lubricate new seals
    • When your removing seals take note of direction the seals are
    • After removing snap rings you may need to use pliers to squeeze them back. mine stayed expanded
    Now youll want to remove whatever is left of the gasket on the crankcase try your HARDEST not to let pieces fall into crankcase or coolant passages. Install new oring's on the 90* tube then install new gasket and pump assembly with the 90* tube on the assembly before you install it on the crankcase.

    Torque bolts 7.2Ft lbs
    Install drain plug with new gasket
    Turn drain valve off
    Start engine and pour antifreeze into cap until full

    Thats it hope this helps atleast one person out!
     
  2. Aug 7, 2012 #2

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

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    Someone please tell me the pictures are showing! because there not on my computer



    FIXED IT!
     
  3. Aug 8, 2012 #3

    ouchez

    ouchez

    ouchez

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    Donnely,

    Award request for you!!

    That was great, Thank you, very nice of you to take the time to help others.

    O
     
  4. Aug 8, 2012 #4

    alorio1

    alorio1

    alorio1

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    Very good info and well written with detailed pics. I think this procedure should be turned into a stickey. An award should be in order also, you would certainly have my vote.........
     
  5. Aug 8, 2012 #5

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

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    Thanks guys!
     
  6. Aug 8, 2012 #6

    sdt354

    sdt354

    sdt354

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    Great job. +1 on the vote here too.
    Steve-o
     
  7. Aug 8, 2012 #7

    wildweasel_pt

    wildweasel_pt

    wildweasel_pt

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    Good one!... Congrats
     
  8. Mar 3, 2013 #8

    Barry barker

    Barry barker

    Barry barker

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    Better late than never, thanks for the guide. I need to replace the seals in my pump now, its leaking. Looks pretty easy. I am wondering if the Bearing can be salvaged if removed carefully?
     
  9. Mar 3, 2013 #9

    one2dmax

    one2dmax

    one2dmax

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    The bearing is going bad and why it's leaking.
     
  10. Mar 3, 2013 #10

    CaptainKyle

    CaptainKyle

    CaptainKyle

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    Great Job !
     
  11. Mar 3, 2013 #11

    Rand-5107

    Rand-5107

    Rand-5107

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    I've been planning to do this. So thanks from me too.
     
  12. Mar 5, 2013 #12

    Barry barker

    Barry barker

    Barry barker

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    Sean, Thanks for getting my parts in the mail post hast, honestly you knew i needed the parts about 10 minutes after I notice the pump was leaking. In my book that should be plenty of time. LOL Hopefully this will be the last maintenance issue i will have before the Texas rally in less than 2 weeks. Looking forward to riding with you in Eureka.
     
  13. Mar 10, 2013 #13

    94 V-Max Rider

    94 V-Max Rider

    94 V-Max Rider

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    I'll be doing this soon. Great write-up.
     
  14. Mar 10, 2013 #14

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

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    Thanks man

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
     
  15. Mar 11, 2013 #15

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

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    awesome write up, just got mine disassembled last night. my seal between the mechanical seal and bearing was pretty garbled up. also make sure you clean the weap hole. mine was full of crud. the mating surfaces for the mechanical seal were full of goop too.
     
  16. Mar 12, 2013 #16

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

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    hey two questions for you guys:

    1. hows this impellor shaft look? i was surprised to see those divots in it.
    [​IMG]

    2. being used to sealed pre-greased bearings is the bearing that goes on here normal to feel the 'rolling' when spinning it? i didn't check it before I installed it (but i guess should have) but now that its i can feel the balls spinning. Like almost notchy but not really. not sure if i'm just used to pre-greased sealed bearings. i sprayed degreaser in the old bearing and it also feels similarly but i don't trust it as i drove it out via its inner race. the new one was driven in with a flat surface, can't see how i'd damage it honestly.
     
  17. Mar 12, 2013 #17

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

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    Yes a dry bearing like this you will feel the rolling of the balls. I believe it will be lubricated by antifreeze once in the bike. Also if those pits are where any of the seals ride id change it if you can find one. It will leak again no saying how long till it does or hell it might not but more than likely will if that's where a seal rides. Just the one time my power steering shaft seal on my truck was leaking.. shop tore it apart called me up said they could replace seal for 100 bucks but warranty any of it because the shaft is pitted. Went in and looked at it and said order a new box so it cost like 600...
     
  18. Mar 12, 2013 #18

    gamorg02

    gamorg02

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    that was my feeling on the bearing. its lubicated with oil though as its on the crankcase side of the oil seal.

    good point on the impeller. it makes sense, no need to do the job twice.
     
  19. Mar 12, 2013 #19

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

    donnelly317

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    Ya know I was trying to figure that out which side it was on I couldn't remember stupid me why would you lib with antifreeze lol.. yea just see how much one would be and go from there.. if u can't find one cheap run it.. but it is definetly where a seal rides? Or bearing? If its not exactly where the seal rides I would leave it
     
  20. Mar 12, 2013 #20

    dannymax

    dannymax

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    Not too sure on the bearing but being as it runs in oil you should be ok there....but I'd replace the empeller/shaft if it was my bike. Probly run $45 - $50 w/shipping. Part # for your '03 1FK-12450-00-00

    Listen to the waterpump after assembly, should be just a whooshing sound....no mechanical noise. Stethescope is just the ticket...H/F maybe?
     

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