How to Polish VMax Scoops

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Buster Hymen

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<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="758"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td colspan="22" rowspan="1" width="755">[SIZE=+2]How to polish the Stock Aluminum Scoops on your V-Max.
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By: Kenneth Kirkpatrick (VMOA # 1563)</td> <td colspan="1" height="48">
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</td> <td colspan="19" rowspan="1" width="744">Here is a side-by-side comparison of stock and polished scoops!
What do you think? I like the polished scoops better, it seems to give the bike even more of an attitude.
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</td> <td colspan="15" rowspan="1" width="736">[SIZE=+1]Materials Needed[/SIZE]
1 Pack of 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper
1 pack of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
1 pack of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
1 pack of 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
1 pack 00 steel wool
1 can of spray on paint remover (safe to be used on aluminum)
1 pair of rubber chemical resistant gloves
1 high speed grinder
1 sheep skin buffing pad
1 pair of safety glasses
1 plastic scraper
1 plastic cup for water
A/R White Jewelers Rouge
A/R Aluminum Polish (I prefer Blue Magic which can be found at a auto supply)
Many paper towels
You will also need about 4-5 hours and a whole mess load of elbow grease.

Let's get started!

Remove both scoops by removing 2 allen head screws that hold 'em in place.
Remove the black grills from each scoop. I also removed 2 of the 3 rubber grommets.
Scuff the surface of the clear coat and black paint with 320 grit sand paper (this will help the stripper lift the paint).
Place the scoops on some old news paper and apply the spray on the paint striper.

Caution: Always use chemicals in a well ventilated area away from any open flames.

Make sure that you have on your safety glasses and rubber gloves.

Wait for the paint and clear coat to bubble up, this might take about 15 minutes.
Carefully scrape the paint and clear coat off of the bare aluminum using the plastic scraper.
Be careful not to get the paint stripper on bare skin because it will burn ! ! This is experience based.
If some patches of the paint are stubborn you might need to assist it with the steel wool.

This is what the scoop will look like stripped.
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</td> <td colspan="16" rowspan="1" width="737">Well, here we go! Lets get started sanding and sanding and sanding...

Fill your plastic cup with water.
Tear a full sheet of the 320 grit sandpaper in half. Fold the half sheet twice. If the sand paper is folded twice it will not slip when you get it wet.
Dip the 320 grit sandpaper in the cup of water and start sanding. You do not need to use any fancy oil to prevent galling the water will do a good job and it is not as messy.
You will want to sand against the grain of the original brush marks. If you sand against the grain of the original buff marks it will make it easier to tell if you have removed them fully.
Periodically wipe off the scoop with a paper towel and re-wet the sand paper.
Keep sanding with the 320 grit sand paper until you have completely removed all of the original brush marks.

After all of the original brush marks are removed. Continue with the 400 grit sandpaper.
Try to sand cross grain to what you did with the 320 grit.
Make sure that you periodically wipe the scoop with a paper towel and re-wet the sandpaper.
You might want to use a rag between your fingers and the sand paper, if not, you might not have any fingers left when you finish.

Next continue with the 600 grit sandpaper.
Try to sand cross grain to what you did with the 400 grit.
Make sure that you periodically wipe the scoop with a paper towel and re-wet the sandpaper.

Now that your fingers are worn down to nubs, your back/arms hurt, and your finger nails are gone, go to the 1000 grit sand paper.
Use the 1000 grit sandpaper in a circular motion. The surface should be some what reflective at this point.
Make sure that you periodically wipe the scoop with a paper towel and re-wet the sandpaper.

Make sure that you check the scoop between each sanding grit. If you missed some of the original brush marks go back to the 320 grit and sand that section down working back to the 1000 grit sand paper.

When you sand the aluminum you will notice different striations in the aluminum. The striations in the aluminum are the grain structure of the aluminum do to casting. Don't sand a hole in the scoop trying to remove the striations, you can't. Don't worry about the striations they are hardly noticeable when you finish.

This is what the scoop will look like after you sand your fingers to nubs.
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</td> <td colspan="17" rowspan="1" width="742">Next place the sheep skin buffing bonnet on the high speed grinder. I worked over a piece of plywood so if the scoop slipped out of my hand it would not get scratched.

Load up the buffing bonnet with the jewelers rouge, you do this by holding the grinder on while pressing the jewelers rouge against the bonnet.
Be generous with the rouge. You will want the rouge to cake up on the bonnet (this is what polishes the aluminum). Make sure that you keep a good thick coating of rouge on the bonnet. The jewelers rouge works best when it gets hot, but this is where it can bite and jerk the scoop out of your hand, so make sure that you have a firm hold on the scoop while buffing!
Always buff away from a edge so the grinder does not grab the edge.
You should immediately notice the difference when you buff the aluminum with the rouge.
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</td> <td colspan="12" rowspan="1" width="571">Don't worry about the black stuff from the rouge you will remove it with the polishing compound.
Polishing is the last step to providing a mirror finish.
Wipe on and buff the aluminum with the aluminum polish
The rouge provides a fairly nice luster but most aluminum polishes contain a silicone that will protect the raw aluminum surface from oxidation.
Well What Ya Think? I LIKE IT!
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</td> <td colspan="13" rowspan="1" width="651">Good luck, be safe and happy V-Maxing!
Drop me a E and let me know how yours turned out.
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</td> <td colspan="3" rowspan="1" width="241">[email protected]</td> <td colspan="14" height="19">
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