ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
So, the steps to do this have been living in a thread for a couple months now, but buried deep under a lot of posts. They have been referenced once to aid another member, but only because the notifier (alorio1) had been following the thread and knew where to go. Otherwise, I am not sure anybody would be able to find the steps. Encouraged by sateriel666, I present the following steps that use pics supplied by PATMAX when he, one2dmax, and CaptainKyle helped me realize that when the bike wouldn't start, I didn't have to buy a whole new ignition switch and anally re-key it so that I would only have to have one key. Thanks again to the all of these members--saved me beaucoup bucks.
Here's a pdf of this post to make things easier, courtesy of adi.barda: http://www.vmaxforum.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=25193&d=1322758495How To: Recondition the Ignition Switch
First things first, a parts list
1) Pop the lid
2) Remove the air box
3) Remove the right-side faux scoop
4) For some reason, I felt it was necessary to remove the coolant block off of its frame panel, so remove the screws indicated by the yellow screws.
5) Remove the three screws that fasten the coolant block panel to the frame (green arrows)
6) Displace the main coolant line from behind the #3 carburetor diaphragm cover. This will help create enough space between the coolant block panel and the ignition switch cover in the next step
7) Remove the ignition switch cover by popping its left corner off of its mounting post and then coaxing it off over the ignition switch assembly
8) Disconnect the ignition switch connector located underneath the instrument panel
9) Back out the two bolts holding the ignition switch assembly to the frame and remove the switch
Perform the following steps to service the ignition switch
10) Bend back the metal wire stress relief
11) Back out the two screws holding the white housing cover to the mounting plate and displace the main housing.
12) Displace the contact plate and using a pencil eraser, rub off the corrosion on the underside contact points indicated by the yellow arrows.
13) Take note of how the white contact armature is seated. It really shouldn't matter if it is reassembled 180-degrees from its original arrangement, but for me the switch didn't pass continuity checks unless it was lined up as I had found it.
14) Remove the white contact armature and the metal ring underneath it. The white plastic armature is index-fit over the grey metal shaft. Clean up the armature's copper tabs (green arrows) with a pencil eraser. The metal ring with indents are what you feel when you turn your key to the different positions. Take notice of the keyway cutouts on the outside of this ring. They match and slide down the molded tabs on the inside of the ignition housing itself.
15) Backing out the second set of philips screws frees up a hold down plate. It has the same keyways around it's outside and holds the grey metal center shaft. Lift out the shaft and expose the tension spring. Lube tumblers with dry lube only--never grease or oil. You could disassemble further by removing the copper snap ring, but it unnecessary.
16) Clean all components with electrical contact cleaner and lube areas that slide against each other with dielectric grease.
17) Reassembly and installation are the reverse of disassembly and removal. Plug harness in to test BEFORE buttoning up the assembly.
Good luck and in the words of PATMAX, "You just saved yourself $250 bucks the stealership charges just to R&R this part!"
Here's a pdf of this post to make things easier, courtesy of adi.barda: http://www.vmaxforum.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=25193&d=1322758495How To: Recondition the Ignition Switch
First things first, a parts list
- your favorite Service Manual
- your favorite dielectric grease
- your favorite dry lube
- electrical contact cleaner
- pencil eraser (or a rubber, for you who speak Britishanese :rofl_200
1) Pop the lid
2) Remove the air box
3) Remove the right-side faux scoop
4) For some reason, I felt it was necessary to remove the coolant block off of its frame panel, so remove the screws indicated by the yellow screws.
5) Remove the three screws that fasten the coolant block panel to the frame (green arrows)
6) Displace the main coolant line from behind the #3 carburetor diaphragm cover. This will help create enough space between the coolant block panel and the ignition switch cover in the next step
7) Remove the ignition switch cover by popping its left corner off of its mounting post and then coaxing it off over the ignition switch assembly
8) Disconnect the ignition switch connector located underneath the instrument panel
9) Back out the two bolts holding the ignition switch assembly to the frame and remove the switch
Perform the following steps to service the ignition switch
10) Bend back the metal wire stress relief
11) Back out the two screws holding the white housing cover to the mounting plate and displace the main housing.
12) Displace the contact plate and using a pencil eraser, rub off the corrosion on the underside contact points indicated by the yellow arrows.
13) Take note of how the white contact armature is seated. It really shouldn't matter if it is reassembled 180-degrees from its original arrangement, but for me the switch didn't pass continuity checks unless it was lined up as I had found it.
14) Remove the white contact armature and the metal ring underneath it. The white plastic armature is index-fit over the grey metal shaft. Clean up the armature's copper tabs (green arrows) with a pencil eraser. The metal ring with indents are what you feel when you turn your key to the different positions. Take notice of the keyway cutouts on the outside of this ring. They match and slide down the molded tabs on the inside of the ignition housing itself.
15) Backing out the second set of philips screws frees up a hold down plate. It has the same keyways around it's outside and holds the grey metal center shaft. Lift out the shaft and expose the tension spring. Lube tumblers with dry lube only--never grease or oil. You could disassemble further by removing the copper snap ring, but it unnecessary.
16) Clean all components with electrical contact cleaner and lube areas that slide against each other with dielectric grease.
17) Reassembly and installation are the reverse of disassembly and removal. Plug harness in to test BEFORE buttoning up the assembly.
Good luck and in the words of PATMAX, "You just saved yourself $250 bucks the stealership charges just to R&R this part!"
Last edited by a moderator:
