crashmymax
Well-Known Member
My right fork is leaking oil out the damper rod bolt. I compressed the forks all the way and damper rod still spins and i cannot tighten the bolt. Is there a trick to this? forks are on the bike.
how to tighten a damper rod bolt
- Thread starter crashmymax
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A 3/8 air or electric impact work great if you can get your hands on one.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
+1, they are super handy for working on your bikes or anything else. I've got a Bocsh 18 volt 3/8 about 70 ft lbs of torque.Was $200 when I bought it including a 1/2 drill and quick charger.
Steve-o
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
looks like i am going to go buy a new tool. Thanks.
I would consider replacing the copper washer before tightening it down, also, I may be able to help you with a holder tool, not sure of the top bolt size but think I have one that fits. You're welcome to try it if you like.
Let me know.
Let me know.
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
Thanks again guys for the advice. I went with a 3/8 butterfly air ratchet its nice and compact and it tightened that stupid bolt in a second. wasted a good hour messing with it today :bang head: Now what will be the easiest way to determine how much fluid is left in the tube? It leaked a fair amount of oil.
Do yourself a favor & drain it & refill it so you know what you have in there.
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
Is removing the damper bolt the way to drain the tube when still attached to the bike?
Yep now that you have your new tool it should be a breeze
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
yes it will be:clapping:. No more 10 mm allen wrench holes in the garage wall:damn angry:
Re: how to remove a damper rod bolt
Im having issues removing the damper rod bolt. I removed the top cap with a 17mm Allen, drained the oil and just like Seans video, burped the damper rod bolt with a dewalt electric impact while pulling down on the lower fork tube.. The bolt turns, but doesn't drop out of the bottom.:bang head:
The manual says to use locktite to install this damper rod bolt. Is that what's causing the damper rod to spin?
I'm feeling especially defeated since Seans Daughter pulled this off, but I cant.. :biglaugh:
Im having issues removing the damper rod bolt. I removed the top cap with a 17mm Allen, drained the oil and just like Seans video, burped the damper rod bolt with a dewalt electric impact while pulling down on the lower fork tube.. The bolt turns, but doesn't drop out of the bottom.:bang head:
The manual says to use locktite to install this damper rod bolt. Is that what's causing the damper rod to spin?
I'm feeling especially defeated since Seans Daughter pulled this off, but I cant.. :biglaugh:
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem. I put the fork back together and then cracked the damper bolt loose. I guess the pressure from the spring helped keep it from spiining.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Re: how to remove a damper rod bolt
The older style forks have a tool to hold the damper from the inside. The tool fits on a long 3/8 drive extention. You could make one from a bolt or maybe a piece of threaded rod with a bolt or nut welded to it. 24 mm is the size. Usually I don't need it and an impact gun takes it right off, but nice to have.
Steve
The older style forks have a tool to hold the damper from the inside. The tool fits on a long 3/8 drive extention. You could make one from a bolt or maybe a piece of threaded rod with a bolt or nut welded to it. 24 mm is the size. Usually I don't need it and an impact gun takes it right off, but nice to have.
Steve
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Re: how to remove a damper rod bolt
Thanks! I will try mabdcmb's suggestion first , then build the damper holding tool.. 24mm nut welded on some sort of a extension?
Thanks! I will try mabdcmb's suggestion first , then build the damper holding tool.. 24mm nut welded on some sort of a extension?
I went to a hardware store having a large selection of hex nuts and found one that fit, tightly. I bought two and a short bolt that fit the nuts, double-nutted them on the bolt, and used an appropriate socket and extension to make it work. I seem to recall it was a nut measuring 1 1/16" that fit the top of the damper rod, which has a female 12 point shape. I am not at home to check on the size, but it worked like a charm.
I haven't read the 1st part of the thread, but I seem to recall this may only work on the early damper rod, to 1992, and that the 1993+ rod top is conical, not 12 point, and the method of keeping it from turning was a tapered wood dowel jammed into the top.
Fyi, the easiest way I found to re-install the downtube nut is using an offset handle speed driver, like everyone used to use before air tools became so-popular. Reverse-thread the cap until you feel it "drop" as it goes past the starter thread, and then using the palm of your hand on the mushroom top of the speed driver, carefully begin tightening the cap. This is one fastener you don't want to cross-thread!
You can easily get enough pressure to bear on the spring using the offset handle driver method. Don't waste your time trying to use your standard ratchet/socket. Yes, you may be able to do it, but the frustration of getting the spring compressed enough to start the cap w/o cross-threading the thing will take you far-longer than the method I suggest.
Now that I think about it, I was able to just drop the nut wedged into the socket, portruding about halfway-out, using a piece of thin cardblard, masking tape or etc. & a long socket extension, and just lowering it into the downtube, until it mated to the top recess of the damping rod. No need for the bolt/double-nut.
I haven't read the 1st part of the thread, but I seem to recall this may only work on the early damper rod, to 1992, and that the 1993+ rod top is conical, not 12 point, and the method of keeping it from turning was a tapered wood dowel jammed into the top.
Fyi, the easiest way I found to re-install the downtube nut is using an offset handle speed driver, like everyone used to use before air tools became so-popular. Reverse-thread the cap until you feel it "drop" as it goes past the starter thread, and then using the palm of your hand on the mushroom top of the speed driver, carefully begin tightening the cap. This is one fastener you don't want to cross-thread!
You can easily get enough pressure to bear on the spring using the offset handle driver method. Don't waste your time trying to use your standard ratchet/socket. Yes, you may be able to do it, but the frustration of getting the spring compressed enough to start the cap w/o cross-threading the thing will take you far-longer than the method I suggest.
Now that I think about it, I was able to just drop the nut wedged into the socket, portruding about halfway-out, using a piece of thin cardblard, masking tape or etc. & a long socket extension, and just lowering it into the downtube, until it mated to the top recess of the damping rod. No need for the bolt/double-nut.
I put the cap back, but before measured 2.25" of preload. I thought it was supposed to be 1"?
The extra pressure didn't help even with my wife pushing down hard on the lower leg. Damper rod bolt spins pretty easy but wont come out with burping.
Time for the tool I fear.
The extra pressure didn't help even with my wife pushing down hard on the lower leg. Damper rod bolt spins pretty easy but wont come out with burping.
Time for the tool I fear.
i never measured my preload but it was tough to get on too, took a couple guys to do it easily. i just cut everything to the progressive spec and didn't measure after. feels good on the ride but the MA road suck.
sometime in '03 (i was unlucky) then went from a 12 point damper rod to a circular one. so some newer forks can use the same method (with a bigger nut) and i believe danny had made a tool at on epoint.
sometime in '03 (i was unlucky) then went from a 12 point damper rod to a circular one. so some newer forks can use the same method (with a bigger nut) and i believe danny had made a tool at on epoint.
I'm not following you gamorg02.. Are you talking about the tool to hold the damper rod? Does my 85 need the 24mm nut on a extension?
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
I have progressive springs with 1" lowering spring and ricor intimidators setup. When I put on my dampner rods, I just used the back end of a long paint roller extension stick which worked fine for me and I am getting ready to do my friends 2005 alike in the upcoming few weeks.
Ridin Dirty
Well-Known Member
A wooden dowel or broom handle, stuck down into the fork into the dampener rod, should hold it well enough to remove the bolt. You just need to keep the dampener from spinning. The bolt is already loosened, so it shouldn't take too much force to hold the dampener.
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