I need detailed instructions on how to bleed the clutch

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Maxedout

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The manual is vague.

Right now I have a 1200 lbs paperweight in the garage begging to be towed.
Can someone give it to me in the terminolgy and steps a monkey culd understand?

Thx in advance.
 
I recommend getting a Mityvac. It makes it easier than trying to bleed with just the clutch lever.

- Fit wrench on bleeder valve (Think it's 8 mm)
- Put Mityvac hose on bleeder valve.
- Remove master cylinder cover and rubber diaphragm

1) Pump vac tool 8-10 times.
2) Open bleeder valve and fluid should come out and into the vac tool container.
3) Watch fluid level in master cylinder, make sure it doesn't go dry!
4) When fluid coming out of bleeder valve slows, close the bleeder.
5) Slowly pump clutch lever several times.

Go back to step 1 and start over until fluid coming out of caliper is clean.

Make sure hose is tight on bleeder valve so air isn't introduced into brake system.
 
I recommend getting a Mityvac. It makes it easier than trying to bleed with just the clutch lever.

- Fit wrench on bleeder valve (Think it's 8 mm)
- Put Mityvac hose on bleeder valve.
- Remove master cylinder cover and rubber diaphragm

1) Pump vac tool 8-10 times.
2) Open bleeder valve and fluid should come out and into the vac tool container.
3) Watch fluid level in master cylinder, make sure it doesn't go dry!
4) When fluid coming out of bleeder valve slows, close the bleeder.
5) Slowly pump clutch lever several times.

Go back to step 1 and start over until fluid coming out of caliper is clean.

Make sure hose is tight on bleeder valve so air isn't introduced into brake system.

I was hoping to do it w/o the mighty vac.
Would you give me detailed instrutions in that?
Thx again.
 
I was hoping to do it w/o the mighty vac.
Would you give me detailed instrutions in that?
Thx again.

The pump by hand method is pretty similar. Get a whole bunch of rags to put around the bleeder to catch the fluid coming out as it will strip paint.
1. Slowly start pulling in your clutch then loosen off the bleeder until fluid starts coming out.
2. Close the bleeder BEFORE the clutch lever can be pulled no further in. Don't release the clutch handle with the bleeder open, this will suck in air.

Repeat the above 2 steps about 10 thousand times and your clutch will be bled.
 
would gravity bleeding it work guys? ive done it on my first honda cb900 but never bled brakes on max.
 
Yes gravity bleeding works best IMO if you have the paitence unless you are in the pits at a race and being lapped here is how ya do it


Remove 2 screws from clutch master cyl
Fill to the top
Open Bleeder Screw at Clutch Cyl
Place a clean container below to catch the old fluid
Let it drip for about 15-20 mins
Keep an eye on the master cyl and keep adding fluid
Close bleeder screw
Top off fluid in master cyl

All Done
:clapping:
 
The pump by hand method is pretty similar. Get a whole bunch of rags to put around the bleeder to catch the fluid coming out as it will strip paint.
1. Slowly start pulling in your clutch then loosen off the bleeder until fluid starts coming out.
2. Close the bleeder BEFORE the clutch lever can be pulled no further in. Don't release the clutch handle with the bleeder open, this will suck in air.

Repeat the above 2 steps about 10 thousand times and your clutch will be bled.

Awesome and thank you.
I caved in and bought a Mity-Vac.
Personally I never could have done it withouit it.
I evacuated the old old and put a good DOT 4 Synthetic.
Now she hums. Thx again! And I'm printing out your help for the next time.
 
JUst wanted to post this tidbit. Anyone changing over to full silicone brake fluid? You would have no issues with a spill eating paint anymore. Does anyone know if there are technical issues related to such a change over? Thanks.
 
JUst wanted to post this tidbit. Anyone changing over to full silicone brake fluid? You would have no issues with a spill eating paint anymore. Does anyone know if there are technical issues related to such a change over? Thanks.

Remember that the o-rings are prepared for a type of oil and if you go adding a different type like dot 5 or silicone based you gonna bust the o-rings and get your masters in the trash...
 
JUst wanted to post this tidbit. Anyone changing over to full silicone brake fluid? You would have no issues with a spill eating paint anymore. Does anyone know if there are technical issues related to such a change over? Thanks.
You would have to completely rebuild your system new hoses,seals orings etc. Dot 5 & 3 mixed turns into a nice jelly.
 
I did it without a mighty-vac.

But you need a big syringe to reverse-bleed, ie pump the fluid into the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder til it runs clear in the master cylinder tank.
 
The first time I bled my clutch I used a long hose that I was able run above the height of the master cylinder and back to the ground but that process took forever!!!
I used a syringe last year and it was sooo much easier, before I attempt it again I will own a Mityvac!!
 
old thread but my 02.
As the air in the lines wants to RISE, so you want the air to exit the system at the highest point. IE the master cylinder at the bars. So what i have found to be the easiest and cheapest is get a squirt bottle and some tubing that will both fit over the bleed zirt down on the slave cylinder and the nozzle of the bottle. empty the master cylinder of fluid. Just squeeze the mt bottle in, place the tubing opening into the fluid of the master and SUCK up the fluid in the master, into the bottle, Easy.
Now fill your bottle bout half full of fluid or better. open the zirt bleed at the slave and SLOWLY squeeze fluid into the slave cylinder, holding the bottle up say chest high untill the master cylinder is full. Close the bleed zirt, cap the master and you are done. no need to pump or anything..
I used this method about 10 years ago after replaceing the gaskets on the slave cylinder and spent 3 days trying the pump and bleed method to no avail.
with the squirt bottle method took me about 10 minutes.
later
Michael
 
Just as a matter of interest guys what mityvac model / part or you referring, there seem to be so many bits available???
Cheers
R
 
The pump by hand method is pretty similar. Get a whole bunch of rags to put around the bleeder to catch the fluid coming out as it will strip paint.
1. Slowly start pulling in your clutch then loosen off the bleeder until fluid starts coming out.
2. Close the bleeder BEFORE the clutch lever can be pulled no further in. Don't release the clutch handle with the bleeder open, this will suck in air.

Repeat the above 2 steps about 10 thousand times and your clutch will be bled.

Best. Response. Ever.:punk:
 
old thread but my 02.
As the air in the lines wants to RISE, so you want the air to exit the system at the highest point. IE the master cylinder at the bars. So what i have found to be the easiest and cheapest is get a squirt bottle and some tubing that will both fit over the bleed zirt down on the slave cylinder and the nozzle of the bottle. empty the master cylinder of fluid. Just squeeze the mt bottle in, place the tubing opening into the fluid of the master and SUCK up the fluid in the master, into the bottle, Easy.
Now fill your bottle bout half full of fluid or better. open the zirt bleed at the slave and SLOWLY squeeze fluid into the slave cylinder, holding the bottle up say chest high untill the master cylinder is full. Close the bleed zirt, cap the master and you are done. no need to pump or anything..
I used this method about 10 years ago after replaceing the gaskets on the slave cylinder and spent 3 days trying the pump and bleed method to no avail.
with the squirt bottle method took me about 10 minutes.
later
Michael

I did mine in this method except didn't use the long hose. I just had my son watch the master cyclinder so I wouldn't overflow it and to let me know when the bubbles stopped. pretty simple.
good luck, Bill
 

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