I say huh? (Diff oil change)

[gamorg02]

just looked at part numbers.. its the same crush washer for the final drive oil, engine oil and waterpump (which i think i need for my antifreeze/coolant flush).

i also just found a yamaha dealer 2 miles from my work (i had no idea they existed) and have 5 instock for $1 a piece, gonna go grab them all on my way home...

 

[gamorg02]

one more quick question on this thread...

so i wanted to check my final drive oil, make sure it still looked good b/c i'm paranoid n shit.. whatever... anyways

so i took the fill bolt out and oil spilled out everywhere.. probably around 1.5 - 2 oz's. so i let it drain wipped it up and topped it off.

so correct me if i'm wrong, its supposed to be around the rim of the bolt hole when the tire is not moving....

has anyone ever had this happen? pretty sure i did the same thing when i first filled it up, not sure how ti seems that it was then over filled. oil also seemed quite a bit darker than the fresh new stuff... that normal as well?

thanks in advance guys...

 

[t1n0m3n]

So after a few changes there is definitely a preferred method to changing the diff oil. Keep in mind that this is GEN2 only. GEN1 has a different method (outlined below the GEN2 method) The problem is that if you just put oil in until it starts seeping out the hole, your pumpkin will spew sauce after a hard ride...

GEN2:
---------------------------
01. Pull the breather cover, fill plug, and drain plug (in that order)
02. Drain the oil.
03. Spin the tire.
04. Let it sit for a while.
05. Spin the tire again.
06. Let it sit for a while again.
07. Put the drain plug back in.
08. Pull the weep plug.
09. Pour a little oil in.
10. Spin the tire.
11. Check the weep hole.
12. Repeat the steps 09 through 11 until the oil barely starts down the threads in the weep hole.
13. Put the weep plug, fill plug, and breather cover on.
---------------------------

The slower you go with steps 09 through 11 the less likely you will spew oil out the breather on a hard ride.

GEN 1:
---------------------------
01. Pull the fill plug and the drain plug.
02. Drain the oil.
03. Spin the tire.
04. Let it sit for a while.
05. Spin the tire again.
06. Let it sit for a while again.
07. Put the drain plug back in.
08. Pour oil in until it reaches the bottom of the threads for the fill plug.
09. Put the fill plug back in.
---------------------------

Notice that you don't spin the tire for the GEN 1 while filling it up. If you over flow the GEN 1, put a finger in the hole to force out some excess oil and once it is near the bottom of the threads again, you are good to go.

 

[naughtyG]

GEN 1:
---------------------------
01. Pull the fill plug and the drain plug.
02. Drain the oil.
03. Spin the tire.
04. Let it sit for a while.
05. Spin the tire again.
06. Let it sit for a while again.
07. Put the drain plug back in.
08. Pour oil in until it reaches the bottom of the threads for the fill plug.
09. Put the fill plug back in.
---------------------------

Notice that you don't spin the tire for the GEN 1 while filling it up. If you over flow the GEN 1, put a finger in the hole to force out some excess oil and once it is near the bottom of the threads again, you are good to go.

According to the drawing in the Yamaha service manual, oil level when filling should come to the top of the filler cap thread, not the bottom, so the oil is just about to spill.

 

[gamorg02]

thats how i usually do it...

 

[Dr.n2o]

Gen 1--Run bike till diff is warm. DRAIN IT, FILLL IT TILL MINOR SPILL AND RIDE IT....it's only a diff. If drained and filled properly, you'll never have a problem. One thing about the max, If you develop a rear diff problem, you're doin somethin' wrong. Mine is 20 yrs old and I crank that thing every safe chance I get. Never a diff issue.

 

[dannymax]

one more quick question on this thread...

so i wanted to check my final drive oil, make sure it still looked good b/c i'm paranoid n shit.. whatever... anyways

so i took the fill bolt out and oil spilled out everywhere.. probably around 1.5 - 2 oz's. so i let it drain wipped it up and topped it off.

so correct me if i'm wrong, its supposed to be around the rim of the bolt hole when the tire is not moving....

has anyone ever had this happen? pretty sure i did the same thing when i first filled it up, not sure how ti seems that it was then over filled. oil also seemed quite a bit darker than the fresh new stuff... that normal as well?

thanks in advance guys...

Garrett, do you check it when the rear end is hot? Heavier oils expand a lot.... you put the fresh oil in when it was cool.

 

[gamorg02]

Garrett, do you check it when the rear end is hot? Heavier oils expand a lot.... you put the fresh oil in when it was cool.

haha i have no idea what i ended up doing, that was back in march! when i do it now, i drain it hot, let it cool down then put oil up to the top of the threads and good to go.

 

[dannymax]

haha i have no idea what i ended up doing, that was back in march! when i do it now, i drain it hot, let it cool down then put oil up to the top of the threads and good to go.

Yup, Me too!

 

[gamorg02]

i go overboard in doing it every other engine oil change so every 3k miles. but hey its cheap insurance.

 

[naughtyG]

I left mine in the Venture pumpkin from last year until a couple of weeks ago when I swapped it to spare max pumpkin. I drained the oil then, it still felt/looked good, but there were a few metal shavings still to the drain plug's magnet. Anything to worry about?

 

[satariel666]

I left mine in the Venture pumpkin from last year until a couple of weeks ago when I swapped it to spare max pumpkin. I drained the oil then, it still felt/looked good, but there were a few metal shavings still to the drain plug's magnet. Anything to worry about?

At least its more sludge then chips.
Post a pic and lets us see.

 

[gamorg02]

I left mine in the Venture pumpkin from last year until a couple of weeks ago when I swapped it to spare max pumpkin. I drained the oil then, it still felt/looked good, but there were a few metal shavings still to the drain plug's magnet. Anything to worry about?

nah i've always had a couple in mine.

 

[naughtyG]

Post a pic and lets us see.

Damn didn't take a pic of that.. it's was definitely small metal shavings similar to when you saw or drill through iron or other hard alloy.

 

[satariel666]

Damn didn't take a pic of that.. it's was definitely small metal shavings similar to when you saw or drill through iron or other hard alloy.

There're always some shavings remains after factory machining.
I've found once big chip inside engine, big about half square inch.

They never come out all at once, evrytime when you're changing the oil more coming out.

 

[naughtyG]

yea but this is an ooooold Venture pumpkin that was used on a Venture, then a Max, and then finally my Max, so it's seen some miles and some oil.. Don't think anything from the factory would be left in there!
I dunno if 'shavings' is the right word either, maybe more like metal particles?

 

[satariel666]

You know, its not a big deal to diassemble the pumpkin and see whats inside.
You better do this.

 

[gamorg02]

yea very small particles, seen 'em each time i've done it. thats what the magnets for eh? lots of speed back there, esp when ur up to 130! no filter to catch it all so the magnet does the work!

 

[naughtyG]

I just wondered because there are a number of pages in the Yamaha service manual that deal with checking/adjusting all sorts of lashes in the pumpkin, and I've never done any of it.

Also I like my Venture pumpkin and it cost me $300, so I wanna make sure it stays good!

 

[satariel666]

Its always better to check old parts still functioning propertly.
Final drive treated corectly can survive almost evrything.
Theres notnig cosmic inside, only two gears and two bearings.
If something went bad, in 99% cases its was bad bearing.

Checking and eventualy seting correct gear lashing on v-max/venture pumpkin its not a big deal. You just gonna need some tools.