I want to put my Max on a diet

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dale914

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What are the cheap/easy ways to make my Max lighter? I keep getting on other bikes and getting confused by how light they are! I've changed the exhaust/taken off the center stand, I've taken off the tail-light and lisence plate bracket, changed the turnsignals with small/light ones. How else can I take off weight. 200 lbs would be great! But I'm sure impossible. Question being: how can I cheaply/easily/safely remove weight? Between all of covers and decorations, there are probably a few pounds. I don't think that I'm financially ready to put on a chain and lighter wheels.
 

Rand-5107

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Shoria battery, light weight wheels, titanium fasteners. Single disc front brake, c.o.p.'s. titanium axles. You already did the most for the least.
 

dale914

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thanks! And just so Sean doesn't have to say it again:
Lose the passenger foot peg brackets and pegs. Make a simple thin flat bracket to mount the regulator too. Get an early regulator without fins (not as good though).

Smaller sportbike type pegs (cheap on ebay). Mill or "hole" the peg mounts
Kerker Header with no baffle.
Stage seven eliminator tubes and get rid of the servo and black control box.
No signals.
No crown.
Fiberglass scoops.
No side covers.
Cut seat and flip down.
Fiberglass Faux tank cover.
No Speedo or bicycle speedo.
Single brake caliper on front.
85 front wheel or aftermarket wheels.
No front fender though you may want to keep the brace
Early Forks or Smaller forks from another model with even smaller tubes
No Headlight or Smaller Light
Simple Bar Riser and Clamp instead of the shaped riser of the vmax. Something like the Fazer used.
No fan or motor if not going to have stop/go traffic and sending unit.
Remove Clutch and Stator inserts and weld holes shut. Venture stator insert is smaller
Single Brake line and no splitter on front
Smaller rear rotor and smaller caliper
Mill out rear wheel some or lighter rear wheel (as mentioned the chain drive conversion).
Trim wiring to remove signal circuit.
Sidestand relay and switch (remove wiring)
Clutch Switch
Remove and rewire hand electronics. Start button only. Eliminate key switch and use smaller switch.
Cut down handlebars
Mill or "hole" top triple (bottom does most of the work)
Smaller fuel tank
Aluminum bolts for most covers/non structural areas
No tool kit
Cut off rear subframe and weld tabs on to bolt on sportbike subrame (which is aluminum). Will need to add some back in for swingarm pivot strength
Smaller Dia shocks or even better use chrome moly struts
Smaller or LED taillight
Remove plastic shield from tank and other rubber shields around engine
Single throttle cable (though no safety then for sticky throttle
Cut down brake/clutch lever
Smaller masters
Braided lines
Shorten brake stay on rear and rotate forward (check line length which can now be shorter).
Remove plastic shields from rear wheel and diff.
Smaller tires
and more
 

Fire-medic

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Too-bad the YMC (Yamaha Motor Corp.) never decided to do an upgrade like sportbike manufacturers were doing about the same time the VMax was released. I think Kawasaki was the 1st to offer an aluminum frame on their 600 sportbike in 1986, you could still buy the steel-framed bike @ the same time, but like Ducati, another same-displacement version was avail. For those who had deeper-pockets & wanted premium wheels, lighter bodywork, better suspension (Ducati's "SP" line) & etc, all for a healthy bump-upwards in price. W/some parts-bin engineering, a few well-chosen new pieces like an aluminum frame, & using existing tooling and ingenuity YMC could have had two markets-the stock, less-expensive route, and a premium brand for the $$$-up enthusiast who wants something better, more-exclusive, and better-performing.

Just by cutting weight by 20% and going to fuel injection you would have a very real, noticeable difference in performance, less maintenance, and a new revenue stream for those willing to speak w/their cash. 500 lbs. fully-fueled & 135 h.p.instead of the rear-wheel 110-115 h.p. of the stocker would make a big difference. After all, Kawasaki had digital fuel injection for their GPZ1100 years before the VMax was released, I think one of their KZ 1000's also was fuel-injected, the shaft-drive touring-oriented one before the liquid-cooled 900's & 1000's. And there was precedent @ about the same time in Yamaha's sports bikes. The FZ750 was upstaged by the FZR 750 w/it's aluminum frame instead of the FZ's steel, & the FZR was lighter & came w/a 6-speed gearbox, lighter hollow Marvic-copy aluminum wheels, better aeros & suspension (Ohlins!), etc as it was designed to be a basis for their Superbike AMA racer.

A bike like that premium-design VMax would probably have been capable of running mid/high 10's in the 1/4 mi. & w/o Jay Gleason behind the handlebars.

Well, it didn't happen, and this has been discussed before, but a guy can dream, right?
 

gamorg02

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most times, the easiest way is on the rider :)
 

old timer

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Take the engine out and put it in a Honda XR250 frame...:punk:...how come no one else thought of this first...? :confused2:
 

SpecOps13

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I've lost 27 pounds, helps the bikes a lot....:rofl_200:Getting harder to put on the centerstand though.:bang head:
 

RaWarrior

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Go on a diet, start hitting the gym. You feel better and your bike goes faster.
Everyone seems to forget about the rider's weight.

Lighter wheels would offer the biggest perceived benefit. Shaving a pound or two here and there you'd never notice seat of pants, but the rotating weight of wheels has a lot bigger effect on handling and overall responsiveness.

If you have the stock muffler, ditching it will lose a good 20-25lbs, that thing is a brick.

A Li-Ion battery can save like 9-10lbs over a lead acid one.

Beyond that you're splitting hairs. Getting lightweight blinkers is not going to improve your bikes handling in any perceptible way. Pulling off body panels ruins the style and character of your bike for virtually no benefit at all. I'd enjoy the bike for what it is (badass), not for what it isn't (a sportbike).
 

gamorg02

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go on a diet, start hitting the gym. You feel better and your bike goes faster.
Everyone seems to forget about the rider's weight.

Lighter wheels would offer the biggest perceived benefit. Shaving a pound or two here and there you'd never notice seat of pants, but the rotating weight of wheels has a lot bigger effect on handling and overall responsiveness.

If you have the stock muffler, ditching it will lose a good 20-25lbs, that thing is a brick.

A li-ion battery can save like 9-10lbs over a lead acid one.

Beyond that you're splitting hairs. Getting lightweight blinkers is not going to improve your bikes handling in any perceptible way. Pulling off body panels ruins the style and character of your bike for virtually no benefit at all. I'd enjoy the bike for what it is (badass), not for what it isn't (a sportbike).
+1
 

DakRatFink

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I lost a lot of weight and could def feel the difference in acceleration. Over the winter I would like to do exhaust and a L-Ion type battery. I figure another -30 pounds or so would be just the ticket. Now if I could just afford some Carrozeria wheels :)
 
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