Idle screw adjustment

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SledHead

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I cleaned my idle circuits on my stock 2001 vmax following the http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm method. While I was at it, I replaced all four idle needle valves. My question is, when I turn the idle screw out, does it richen, or lean out the mixture? What is a good baseline number of turns out. I am at about 2500 feet elevation.

Secondly, when replacing the airbox, what is the best way to make sure the crankcase breather tube is attached. I could find no good way to access it?
 
Counterclockwise (to the left) is how to richen the screws. For a stock Vmax, about 2.5 turns out should work. Every bike is different though, so yours might like a little bit less...or a little bit more.
 
I cleaned my idle circuits on my stock 2001 vmax following the http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm method. While I was at it, I replaced all four idle needle valves. My question is, when I turn the idle screw out, does it richen, or lean out the mixture? What is a good baseline number of turns out. I am at about 2500 feet elevation.

Secondly, when replacing the airbox, what is the best way to make sure the crankcase breather tube is attached. I could find no good way to access it?

I'm not sure there is a good way but I find 12" hemostats seem to work the best, the ones with the angled tips.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12-Curv...274022?hash=item566fb44aa6:g:VCsAAOSwxYxUwJl2
 
You can also see which side of the breather tube is more accessible, attach it to the opposite one (the more-difficult to reach one), and then use the maximum-access side to make the connection to the other port.

The hemostats work for a variety of uses in mechanics. Those long angled needle-nose pliers you can find at Sears or other outlets can make a very difficult job into an easy one. Same with those tiny, quarter-inch bit holders that resemble a ratchet wrench, the bit slips-into the wrench female, and gives you the ability to loosen or to tighten screws in restricted spaces.
http://www.sears.com/a1-seg-tools-v...M7716205026?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11
prod_3371641326

http://www.sears.com/stanley-chapma...M9843400120?prdNo=25&blockNo=25&blockType=G25
prod_7415110620
 
Pull up the coolant reservoir and set off to side with hoses still attached. Then, easy access to the breather hose and airbox port are easy. No tools needed.

Mark
That's what I do, I have long skinny fingers so it's fairly easy for me.
 
^+1 I reach under the fuel pump with the coolant tank off and make sure that hose is on 1st before I push the airbox down onto the carbs.
 
I replaced the spring clip with a typical hose clamp. I leave the hose clamp real loose. It makes getting the hose on the nipple pretty easy.

Then I use a 1/4 spinner handle with extension and socket to tighten the hose clamp.
 
This may seem like a bone head question: But here it goes.

When attempting to set the idle air screws from scratch and get in the ball park:

1. you screw them all the way in.
2. you back them out 2 1/2 turns

My question is how does one keep track of what constitutes a full turn?
If the screw driver tip say is facing completely vertical/ up and down. Does one complete turn mean I turn it to 180 then another 180 degrees for a full 360 degrees?

Maybe it would help if I put a paint dot on one end of the screw driver and count how many full revolutions that way. Comments?
 
360 degrees is 1 complete turn. For me, I will count as I turn....IE 1/2......1 turn......1/2....2 turns.

I would just do what works for you.
 
360 degrees is 1 complete turn. For me, I will count as I turn....IE 1/2......1 turn......1/2....2 turns.

I would just do what works for you.

Yah, thanks. If I dont get this last F%#@-ing idle air screw loose it may be making the pilgrimage to Mr. Sean's shop.:bang head:

The progression seems to be as thus: carb 1...cracks and is good.
carb 2...cracks and is good.
carb 3...no budge...
carb 4...cracks and is good.
Carb 3....spray PB...turn,,tap..pray..tight and wont move.
spray...tap..turn...gouge brass, cuss...gouge some more strip.

Thats where I stopped. I wont progress to drill...cuss...destroy carb body.:damn angry:
Although I have been tempted.. ha ha.
 
How long did the PB blaster set? Its been my experience to spray the idle screws, and WALK away, for like 1-2 hrs just to be on the safe side.
 
Ive been spraying PB blaster in that hole for several weeks. I even had the correct screw driver. I gingerly tried to turn and SCrraaaAAAAPPPpe...the sick feeling of carved brass.

Now I just left it thinking I'll deal with it later. But every so often i give a little squirt of PB.

The bike wont idle without choke so Im almost certain it is a idle adjust issue. I ran the crap out of it yesterday and keep fresh gas in it. But it is bothering me it wont idle right so I am gonna have to get that screw out to do a proper "shotgun" and adjustment.

So many here have walked this path. I wont get to the point of buggering up my carb body though. I will pull it and ship it before then.
 
This may seem like a bone head question: But here it goes.

When attempting to set the idle air screws from scratch and get in the ball park:

1. you screw them all the way in.
2. you back them out 2 1/2 turns

My question is how does one keep track of what constitutes a full turn?
If the screw driver tip say is facing completely vertical/ up and down. Does one complete turn mean I turn it to 180 then another 180 degrees for a full 360 degrees?

Maybe it would help if I put a paint dot on one end of the screw driver and count how many full revolutions that way. Comments?
The screw hole is small and long-I use the pocket screwdriver with the clip on it that clips to your pocket. And "no" I don't have the pocket protector.
 

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Since your still having issues.....me personally, I would send it somewhere, and get it taken care of professionally. That way you don't bugger anything else up.
 
Ive been spraying PB blaster in that hole for several weeks. I even had the correct screw driver. I gingerly tried to turn and SCrraaaAAAAPPPpe...the sick feeling of carved brass.

Now I just left it thinking I'll deal with it later. But every so often i give a little squirt of PB.

The bike wont idle without choke so Im almost certain it is a idle adjust issue. I ran the crap out of it yesterday and keep fresh gas in it. But it is bothering me it wont idle right so I am gonna have to get that screw out to do a proper "shotgun" and adjustment.

So many here have walked this path. I wont get to the point of buggering up my carb body though. I will pull it and ship it before then.
I use wd-40 and a q-tip for cleaning out the debris and a dremel with a diamond tip to cut a deeper slot into the standard head by using a side to side movement-you have about 1/2in deep to cut that slot and get a better grip.
Where are you in Texas? I will be in Sweetwater and Odessa in 2 days.
 

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The screw hole is small and long-I use the pocket screwdriver with the clip on it that clips to your pocket. And "no" I don't have the pocket protector.

That's the exact screwdriver I have. But I lost the clip. I'm in Central Tx about a hour north of Austin. So it seems to me there is not very much room to do any side to side cutting on that brass screw head.

Could you possibly send me a close up of the dremel tip you used?
 
Since your still having issues.....me personally, I would send it somewhere, and get it taken care of professionally. That way you don't bugger anything else up.
Ya, this seems the most prudent course. I think it is pretty seized in there. I just got the bike running and not leaking so I think I will spend time riding it.

I re adjusted the ball park setting this morning and was way off by at least 1.5 turns.
This my explain my poor idle.

I have to wait until the misses gets up to try the bike since we all know how freakin loud these bikes are:biglaugh: I may be good to go,hoping the screw seized in a favorable setting.
 
That's the exact screwdriver I have. But I lost the clip. I'm in Central Tx about a hour north of Austin. So it seems to me there is not very much room to do any side to side cutting on that brass screw head.

Could you possibly send me a close up of the dremel tip you used?

I'll be in Round Rock in oct but I'll bet you'll have it fixed by then.
 

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