Installing the fan mod that Tim Nash does

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EAGLEPI

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I'm trying to do the fan mod that Tim Nash does. I'm having a problem that I hope someone can help me with.

I know that in the molex the fan wire that you have to connect the wire to should come out of the molex connector when you slide a thin object down to push down the clip that is locking the terminal in place.

I've tried many time to try to get the terminal clip out without success, I didn't want to ruin the terminal clip or pull the wire out of it so I was about to give up. Then I thought of a work around to test it.

I took a flat connector cut it a bit thinner and then I slide it into the bottom of the molex connector where the correct wire is, so basically the flat connector is against the terminal and making contact. Then I ran a ground and installed a switch, all of this stuff is temporary just to see if the mod works.

It works fine, so now I have to figure how to get the terminal out so I can solder the wire to it , that option is out of the question for me I have tried so many times to release the terminal the way it is supposed to be done but it isn't coming out.

So I thought if i can use this flat connector and somehow slide it into the bottom of the wire for the fan so it is in contact with the fan wire and terminal. I'd like to find a way to do the mod with the flat connector but make it so it has a good connection and won't pull out.

Does anyone have any ideas.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MnSwi1Cj8A

But why bother to do it this way?
Much easier to just remove a little insulation from the wire before it enters the connector, and solder on the jumper wire that goes to the switch, then taping over the splice. No need to cut the wire completely. This is what I did, on my Gen1.
OR you could cut the wire, and use an insulated crimp fitting designed just for this procedure. They look like a "Y".
Cheers!
 
But why bother to do it this way?
Much easier to just remove a little insulation from the wire before it enters the connector, and solder on the jumper wire that goes to the switch, then taping over the splice. No need to cut the wire completely. This is what I did, on my Gen1.
OR you could cut the wire, and use an insulated crimp fitting designed just for this procedure. They look like a "Y".
Cheers!
Thanks Miles,

I just came back down from my garage where I was installing the fan bypass switch. I figured out a way and it works perfectly Which is a relief since lately my luck hasn't Been so good., it just so happens that it was the same way you told me to do it here. I really appreciate that you took the time to reply and try to help me. Once I was siting on the stool looking at the side of my bike I figured it out pretty fast and the best part is it works perfectly.

The only thing I would change and I still can is use a smaller switch, the one I have now is great it's black so you can't even see it unless you were looking for it.

Thanks again for replying I appreciate it very much
Ron
 
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Two wires coming from the fan and two wires on the switch. I used two of these to connect them together----
 

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Two wires coming from the fan and two wires on the switch. I used two of these to connect them together----
I've got tons of those little buggers, Blax. Seems they come with everything electrical accessory you can buy.
But I've never used any. They seem to be "cheaters" - an easy, but poor connection at best. Have you ever measured the resistance across one of these, and compared it to a soldered joint?
Cheers!
 

I've got tons of those little buggers, Blax. Seems they come with everything electrical accessory you can buy.
But I've never used any. They seem to be "cheaters" - an easy, but poor connection at best. Have you ever measured the resistance across one of these, and compared it to a soldered joint?
Cheers!

Yes I have and they measure the same. I used to build core lamps and have used over 1000 of them, never has one failed. I have 3 on the r/r to the stator.
 
Yes I have and they measure the same. I used to build core lamps and have used over 1000 of them, never has one failed. I have 3 on the r/r to the stator.
Thanks! You've done the testing for me.
I'll use the connectors from here on in. Certainly a time save-er.
Cheers!
 
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Two wires coming from the fan and two wires on the switch. I used two of these to connect them together----


Thanks, I was able to get mine installed and working perfectly. I might change the switch to a smaller one, I really don't need to but it is a bit close to the frame and I don't want to start a rubbing spot, so a smaller switch will be good. All my connections are soldered except the shielded spade connectors that connect to the switch.
Thanks again
 
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