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I just want to try something different. If it’s a power loss, I’ll run the stacks I have with chrome scoops. But what if it works?? Wouldn’t that be something. With the ram air scoops made for them you have to relocate everything that is behind the scoops. Radiator fill, all the electronics. It looks like a mess under the faux lid. The 1333 should give me plenty of power. She’s getting there
 

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Well done MM, I totally missed that. Fans on dynos are for cooling by blowing air at the radiator.
I believe there are some dynos with ram air setups. I've seen it improvised with leaf blowers as well, but obviously the speeds would be quite high.
 
I'm sure you are aware the bobbins to hold the fake tank are opposite the openings in the airbox.

You may need to make a hole in a different place to feed the air from the scoops.
 
I just want to try something different. If it’s a power loss, I’ll run the stacks I have with chrome scoops. But what if it works?? Wouldn’t that be something. With the ram air scoops made for them you have to relocate everything that is behind the scoops. Radiator fill, all the electronics. It looks like a mess under the faux lid. The 1333 should give me plenty of power. She’s getting there
Nowt wrong in trying something different but I am intrigued to know what you will do differently to the Millenium scoops that will give a significantly (read 'better') result than they achieved.
 
I’m just trying something different. Never seen a bike with 4 pods sticking out. Looks wild when I put them on the bike. If they don’t work, I really don’t care…but what if they do. And all the people putting down out of the box thinking have to eat crow. I never said it would work. I said I was trying something different. I love seeing what you crazy bastards do to your bikes. I love seeing someone else’s vision and creation. Sometimes I don’t like the bike, but I love the out of the box thinking. I should be close to 200hp with the nitrous. No one will be talking down about my bike lol. Love my vmax brothers and sisters. Thank you to all the people that have helped me, and continue to show me what brotherhood really means
 
I’m thinking about deleting/removing the air box all together & using 4 individual snorkel tubes to fit to my Gen-II style air intakes with either custom inline air filters or individual K&N pods with snorkel tubes going over them clamped to each carb neck/mouth.that way forced air 💨 would feed directly into the carbs. 🤷‍♂️
 
I am installing k/n air filter that appears to be for a Subaru in my air box top. I have Cobra exhaust and real sure no extra jetting has been done. I do have backfire on deceleration and a cold misfire on bottom right pipe(3 or 4). What size jets do I need and where is the best place to get them? lol
 
I am installing k/n air filter that appears to be for a Subaru in my air box top. I have Cobra exhaust and real sure no extra jetting has been done. I do have backfire on deceleration and a cold misfire on bottom right pipe(3 or 4). What size jets do I need and where is the best place to get them? lol
Best bet would be to get rid if the cobras ! No use putting a stage 7 or a big filter in like you are talking about without having a full exhaust system.
 
Just my luck, I buy a bike with junk attached. Bought a 2000 carbon with 13k online for $3500 plus $500 shipping from Iowa to Florida. First was the smell of fuel, traced it to a piece of something for a fuel line. Its been a C- on performance then came the steering issue at 90. Hoping its just a stem adjustment. So the big, top air box filter is not popular either. Better to have individuals on each carb? What kind of fix for the pipes do you recommend? Would a stage 2 jet kit help the bike? It all sounds $$$$. Just want bike to run better, no racing. Thanks for your advice, its much appreciated.
 

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Just my luck, I buy a bike with junk attached. Bought a 2000 carbon with 13k online for $3500 plus $500 shipping from Iowa to Florida. First was the smell of fuel, traced it to a piece of something for a fuel line. Its been a C- on performance then came the steering issue at 90. Hoping its just a stem adjustment. So the big, top air box filter is not popular either. Better to have individuals on each carb? What kind of fix for the pipes do you recommend? Would a stage 2 jet kit help the bike? It all sounds $$$$. Just want bike to run better, no racing. Thanks for your advice, its much appreciated.
It is hard to say about what is going on with your bike without seeing it in person but Cobra pipes are junk as far as hp goes you would be better off with stock pipes ! Nothing a matter with individual air filters or the big top air filter but they are useless without a full header ! I wished I was still in the Tampa Bay area I could help you out. I can do Mail order carb work for you as well as a few others here . It Is really hard to comment much further without knowing what someone might have done to the carbs already .
 
Putting decent exhaust on it is your first step. All the carb work in the world isn't going to do a whole lot on those pipes.

Keep your eyes on the for sale section. People put all kinds of pipes up for sale from time to time. In fact I think there's a couple sets there now.

The worst thing you can do is start hurling money all over the bike. It will all be useless until you get decent pipes on it so you can tell where the bike really is and go from there.
 
Smithjs35, where in FL are you? Ditch the Cobras! Don't even think of any jet kits or anything else, until you get rid of them! There are many people on here who have complete exhausts for sale, though the size and weight of the shipping is a $$$.

My friend's shop (south FL) can make your VMax have a stock level of performance, or more, if you want to spend the $. But your first order of business is to remove the Cobra 4-into-4's! Chances are that whatever has been done to the carbs to fit the Cobras will not need to be undone to install an OEM system. Of course, going back to entirely-stock carburetor jetting eliminates one (or more) reason(s) for your failure to perform VMax. Of course, in its present state, you don't know any better. Once you return to OEM for the exhaust and jetting, with other systems being within-spec, the level of performance improvement is going to be a BIG surprise! I've ridden other members' Cobra-equipped bikes, and none of them have come anywhere close-to how an OEM bike rides/performs.

Truth be told, I'd rather have a scabbed-up road-rashed set of OEM megaphones on OEM rusty header pipes, than to have a shiny, perfect-appearance set of Cobra 4/4's! Why? Performance! Did you hear me? Performance! Your Cobras give you probably 10-15% less horsepower! Why is that? Because the OEM exhaust is well designed for torque at all areas of the rev-band, and high-rpm horsepower with legal sound levels. The Cobra 4/4's offer no scavenging improvements over an OEM system. Time and again, members on here have found that going back to stock restores lost power, improves throttle response, and restores the VBoost function.

An easy task for you: remove a CV carburetor cap, and compare your slide needle to these. The OEM USA market bikes don't have multiple slots for adjusting your needle position height, the Dynojet and Factory Pro kits do. Notice that the Cobra jet kit is not listed in these. There will be one screw for the CV carb cap which is a security screw, there are several ways to remove it. Using a Dremel tool with a cut-off disc to slot the security screw head is one way. Using a set of security bits like this from Harbor Freight is another way. The third, is to use a 10" pair of straight-jaw Vise-Grips to grab the security screw pan-head and to loosen it.

VMax carburetor needles.jpg
Security Bit Set with Case, 100 Pc. (harborfreight.com) Cost is $10, and is the easiest way to remove those pesky security screws. I like to replace the screws with SS allen cap-head screws, easy to operate, non-rusting, and they look good. Do the same for the float bowl screws when you remove the float bowls.

1633616688907.png

I'm adding some necessary reading for you. Many of your questions about your bike will be answered here. The service manual should be downloaded, and also printed-out and kept in a 3-ring binder for referral.

(3) New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read! | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

VMX12- Service-Manual.pdf (vmoa.net)
 
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If you don't want to go the route of rejetting the carbs, just get a set of slip-ons but definitely get rid of the cobras. I'm speaking from personal experience.
 
Ditch the Cobras! Don't even think of any jet kits or anything else, until you get rid of them!
Is this the part where I get all bent out of shape for you saying something that I already said and pitch a big fit about it?

Oh wait. That's just you.

Never mind.

Carry on.
 
Hey, you are really giving great advice, I owe you big time. One thing I have noticed is vmax people are really cool at trying to help. Mr. Morley has shown me how to fix that steering wobble at 90, tighten it up! Have one sluggish slide on #2 have to check. Been looking at 4 into 1's since 5am, wife's not happy. Asking to spend on my other girl that just happens to have a v4. She will get over it but, really do need a deal. $850 for ceramic black would be great. But, I live on disability income and paypal credit would help for sure but needing to spend $$$ in other places. Really want to do the clutch too. Focus on finding a set of 4 into 1's that's first. Will check used parts and maybe luck will find me. Knew when I first heard the vmax that it was making a lot of noise and it might not be horses. Ebay has a stock set up for $150. 4 into 1 keeps singing in my ear though. Do in fact have same security bit set and many JIS screwdrivers. Retired Aircraft Mechanic, tools are everything. Thanks so much for your help. Live in Jacksonville Beach, FL you know, the one with the great football team.. Patience is a virtue !
 

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