I would NOT ride the bike again with that type of problem. All-Balls has reasonably-priced steering head bearings and seals kits, or buy the OEM.
Sounds like you may have bad steering head bearings. If they are doing that, you need to see what shape the grease is in, and determine if the bearings have become 'notched,' where they have made indentations in the bearing races. The feeling is 'bumpy,' when you move the bars from right-lock to left-lock. If you have that, the bearings need to be replaced. That means the steering head and triple trees have to be disassembled. You usually can get the upper outer-race out, but the lower outer-race is more-difficult.
One way is to put a bead of weld onto the lower outer-race bearing surface, so you have something for a chisel or punch to contact, and then hammer-out the outer-race. Put the beads at 180 degrees apart. Sometimes the heat of doing the weld-bead causes the lower outer bearing race to free-up, and it comes-out. You tap a bit on 1 side, then 180 degrees apart, on the other weld bead, tap again. Your punch or chisel is inserted from the top of the steering head for the lower outer-race, and the opposite for the upper-race: you insert the punch or chisel from the bottom, and hammer-upwards. The top race usually you can catch the edge of the outer bearing-race, and tap it free, working your way from one side to the opposite side. The lower bearing outer-race, there isn't a protruding 'lip' on the circumference of the outer-race, that's why you have-to put a bead of weld on the lower outer bearing surface, for the lower outer bearing-race.
The alternative is to use a small die-grinder and to cut a slot in the lower outer bearing-race. Sometimes cutting two slots in the outer bearing race will give you enough slack in the outer bearing-race, to drive it out with the punch. This is hard to-do without cutting-into the steering head steel itself. You have-to minimize the amount that you notch-into the steering head, instead of the outer bearing race.
Some bikes have a relief notched into the inside dimension of the steering head bearing seat, where the outer bearing-race seats. It's usually covered-up by the grease, and you have to clean-out the grease to find the two relief notches which is where the punch would go, to contact a larger area on the outer bearing-race, to be able to drive it out with a punch. Unfortunately, Yamaha does not use this machining on the VMax.
After removing the outer bearing-race, you could use a die-grinder to make two reliefs like that so 'the next-time' you have to-replace the steering head bearings, it's an easier job for you. In most bikes' lifetimes, one steering head bearing replacement is all that's called-for. If you pull a LOT of wheelies, and let the front end slam-down, you might need the bearings replaced more-than once. FYI, the name of the deformation of the bearing races where you can feel the notches, as you move the bars side-to-side is ' brinelling.'
