Is this a lowering trick?

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VmaXXX

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On all the 2nd gen pics I see, the top of the triple tree looks flush with the top of the fork tubes. On mine however, there’s a good inch of tube sticking up above the top of tree. Is this some sort of lowering technique? If so, does it adversely effect handling? I presume the geometry is changed because the rear suspension and links appear to be stock. Thanks in advance for any insight.
 
By dropping the yokes down the fork leg you will reduce the trail or castor angle.
Why is that distance or angle important? It is what keeps the wheel in the straight ahead position when moving.

The greater the trail the greater the resistance the wheel will have to moving from the straight ahead position, i.e. you will need more force on the handlebars to make the bike turn.

Go the other way and you reduce trail thus reducing reducing the input needed to turn.
Taken to extreme and eventually the wheel will try to turn by itself and you will not be able to control the bike.

Having a lower input requirement to turn is referred to as 'making the steering quicker'; the down side is that the bike will be less stable particularly on uneven roads.

On your bike it an easy to revert to the OE spec by moving the yokes back up the fork leg.
I suggest you do this and see how the bike feels compared to how it is now.
You will then have data to decide which way you want to go.
 
By dropping the yokes down the fork leg you will reduce the trail or castor angle.
Why is that distance or angle important? It is what keeps the wheel in the straight ahead position when moving.

The greater the trail the greater the resistance the wheel will have to moving from the straight ahead position, i.e. you will need more force on the handlebars to make the bike turn.

Go the other way and you reduce trail thus reducing reducing the input needed to turn.
Taken to extreme and eventually the wheel will try to turn by itself and you will not be able to control the bike.

Having a lower input requirement to turn is referred to as 'making the steering quicker'; the down side is that the bike will be less stable particularly on uneven roads.

On your bike it an easy to revert to the OE spec by moving the yokes back up the fork leg.
I suggest you do this and see how the bike feels compared to how it is now.
You will then have data to decide which way you want to go.
Thanks a lot Max. Based on that info, I'm leaning on leaving the yoke where it is. It already seemed counter steering this bike required more pressure than expected. Like to avoid making it feel any heavier.
 
Anyone slid a triple clamp up the forks by yourself?
Or anyone have a suggestion how one person could do it?
Seems like the bike would have to be held up after the pinch bolts were loosened.
 
From what I understand, straight-line stability is decreased. Hence wanting to raise it back up.
I agree steering would be quicker and less stable the further you would move the triple down the fork tubes. But just for shooting it down the quarter mile I believe it would decrease the chance of wheelieing and get your ET and 60' time down. Especially if you were trying to get from a low low 10 to a high 9 second run. I would never want it permanently moved down.
 
You can buy a scissor type jack for around 50$ on ebay and that will lift front or rear wheels easy making it easy to adjust front forks or any rear wheel service . Even on a lift you still need jack and the cheap little scissor jack is light and easy to work they also come with adjustable pads so clearing exhaust is no problem.
 
You can buy a scissor type jack for around 50$ on ebay and that will lift front or rear wheels easy making it easy to adjust front forks or any rear wheel service . Even on a lift you still need jack and the cheap little scissor jack is light and easy to work they also come with adjustable pads so clearing exhaust is no problem.

A scissor jack can do the job but you do need to be careful as it is quite easy for bike to slip off it.
By all means lift with the jack but use an axle stand to provide firm support when working on the bike.
 
A scissor jack can do the job but you do need to be careful as it is quite easy for bike to slip off it.
By all means lift with the jack but use an axle stand to provide firm support when working on the bike.
Just to be safe I also loop a cable from a upper support beam and attach to the frame or forks.
 
I put my jack more towards the front of the bike, so the rear wheel would still be planted. I loosened up the triple tree clamps, and then lowered the jack where I wanted the forks to be, and tightened everything up. I did it this way on the Gen 1 and Gen 2, with no issues.

This jack is 16 inches wide, so it will fit under the bike completely.
 

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I put my jack more towards the front of the bike, so the rear wheel would still be planted. I loosened up the triple tree clamps, and then lowered the jack where I wanted the forks to be, and tightened everything up. I did it this way on the Gen 1 and Gen 2, with no issues.

This jack is 16 inches wide, so it will fit under the bike completely.
That's nearly identical to the jack I used for my Deluxe. It worked so well I stored the bike on during winter. However, the lowest point on my 3 Harleys was the frame. Wouldn't a Max be resting on the bottom of the motor?
 

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That's nearly identical to the jack I used for my Deluxe. It worked so well I stored the bike on during winter. However, the lowest point on my 3 Harleys was the frame. Wouldn't a Max be resting on the bottom of the motor?

I know on the Gen 1, the jack will rest on the pipes. Off the top of my head, I dont know if the pipes or the oil pan, is the lowest spot. I THINK its still the pipes though. I'm at work, so I cant go check,
 
I know on the Gen 1, the jack will rest on the pipes. Off the top of my head, I dont know if the pipes or the oil pan, is the lowest spot. I THINK its still the pipes though. I'm at work, so I cant go check,
I think you're right. I remember seeing a cross pipe under there toward the front. I can't go check either. I'm eating ice cream and watching Colombo.
 
The pipes run below the frame but my jack has adjustable arms on the top and was still about 50$ on ebay, slide it forward and it lifts the front tire off the ground ,slide it back and the rear wheel is easily removed , even on a bike lift you need a jack for wheel removal , probably the best 50$ i've spent .IMG_20210310_210137830.jpg
 
The pipes run below the frame but my jack has adjustable arms on the top and was still about 50$ on ebay, slide it forward and it lifts the front tire off the ground ,slide it back and the rear wheel is easily removed , even on a bike lift you need a jack for wheel removal , probably the best 50$ i've spent .View attachment 75793
Do the frame rails rest on top of those adjustable arms?
 
From what I understand, straight-line stability is decreased. Hence wanting to raise it back up.
Yes caster. A shopping cart with its front wheels easily moving and turning very easy, would be extreme negative caster. Positive caster gives the effect like Steve mentioned, more stabile tracking, and more resistance to steering it.
 

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