leaky cooling sys

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Praxxl

Member
Joined
May 27, 2014
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Louisville, KY
When changing the starter on my 1986, I had to remove the thermostat housing and tubes. I discovered the steel tube (see attached picture) to the right of the thermostat housing is in bad shape. It is corroded and has several holes.
Anyone know where I can get replacements?
Should the steel tube pull out from the thermostat housing?
I can wiggle it a little bit but can't pull it out. I suspect it is an O-ring seal and the tube is held firm with rust, but until I find replacement parts, I'm not going to get rough with it. I wish they had used copper instead of steel.
 

Attachments

  • coolant tube.JPG
    coolant tube.JPG
    81.1 KB · Views: 51
When changing the starter on my 1986, I had to remove the thermostat housing and tubes. I discovered the steel tube (see attached picture) to the right of the thermostat housing is in bad shape. It is corroded and has several holes.
Anyone know where I can get replacements?
Should the steel tube pull out from the thermostat housing?
I can wiggle it a little bit but can't pull it out. I suspect it is an O-ring seal and the tube is held firm with rust, but until I find replacement parts, I'm not going to get rough with it. I wish they had used copper instead of steel.

Replacements should be avail from anyone on here who is parting out a bike but you want to see if theirs is any-better than yours. If the pipes were in copper, they would fail due-to vibration. Steel is best and will last a decent length of time if you run coolant instead of water. Never run straight water in your bike, except in case of an emergency. You could braze the holes in the one you have and keep it for an emergency spare, but the task of trying to braze it up may cause it to fail in more places where the metal has thinned. That's actually a good thing, as it's an excuse to throw the &^%$$##$!(**! thing away.

The 'drain cock assy.' is what you are wanting, and is found on the 'radiator hose' fiche listing #29, $51.03.

If you want a new one, Ron Ayres Motorsports is one source. http://www.ronayers.com/

Here is a diagram for parts and pricing, from them.

 

Attachments

  • VMax water pump diagram.pdf
    163.9 KB · Views: 26
  • VMax radiator hose diagram.pdf
    199.4 KB · Views: 16
Mine leaks too. But never from the same seam... And now it's starting to leak from the water pump cover even though I replaced the seals last season...
Also, is there a magic truck for getting that drain bolt out? Even if I take the retaining screw out the thing just spins, but I don't want to pry on it unless that's the magic trick.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140623_190315.jpg
    IMG_20140623_190315.jpg
    65.2 KB · Views: 38
In your picture, at the extreme left side, you can just see the edge of a cap screw in the housing beneath the water pump housing.
My Clymer manual says this is the drain for the coolant system.
The fitting that turns is not the drain. Turning it redirects or blocks flow to the center hose. I'm not sure the correct position.
 
When those items start their rusty digression, it is almost always just less of a headache to replace that whole assembly complete. Find one from
Pinwall or one of the parts guys here. Just be clear that you want an relatively clean, corrosion free, rust free one. These can be refurbished but not worth the time and effort for most guys here. Even when you get a replacement used part, you can still refresh it cosmetically and operationally to ensure a longer life. Even taking a look at close up in your hand while it's off will help you understand how it works when "On" the bike if you even care or just throw on your replacement!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top