Looking at 1986 Vmax need info

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SDB

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Looking at a one owner 1986 Vmax... 16,500 miles. I know old Yamahas pretty well but never had a Vmax. Owner says "clutch is soft needs bled"... So I am assuming it's a hydraulic clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder on my RSV. Is it pretty much the same with the slipper clutch on a Vmax?

Any particular things to look for when test riding? Always wanted a 1st gen and hopefully this one is as nice and stock as it appears (not sure if it's stock exhaust)
 

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I'm kind of new to Vmax ownership as well. In looking around here for a while it looks like coils and popping out of second gear under acceleration are the biggies. The second gear issue looks like a show stopper since you have to split the cases to fix it. You can find lots of people discussing.


1993 and newer gen 1's have a few better bits on them like forks.
 
Be sure to add your location under your screen name, someone on-here may be local to you, for assistance.

Yes it appears to-be a stock exhaust.

This thread is a good one for initial VMax owners: New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read!

A strong battery and a properly-operating charging system are necessary for proper evaluation of the bike in dynamic mode. A weak battery causes all-sorts of problems. The charging system misfunction will prevent the battery from working properly. Of those two, you're probably more-likely to reach the bad battery than you are a poorly-operating charging system.

If the bike doesn't run, I wouldn't pay more-than $1K for a clean example, which is all-there, and which shows no obvious defects, but that is hard to determine without having it run/operational, and able to be road tested. A poorly-maintained bike, non-operational, which doesn't start, so it cannot be ridden, thus properly-evaluated, is a $500 pig-in-a-poke. I've paid less.

If the starter sounds like a barrel of rocks being tossed-about, 'starter clutch,' at a minimum. Maybe not right-now, but soon.

These bikes with the 10% ethanol gas common today develop obstructed carbs from sitting. You can try all the 'on the bike' peashooter/shotgun carb rebuild in a can attempts to clean it up, but I just rip-out the carbs and split 'em into two pairs, and open them up for immersion in an ultrasonic cleaner, an inspection, and replacement of worn parts, which usually is gaskets (the jet block gasket is the one I replace most frequently, often others don't really need replacement, if you're careful on disassembly) and a float needle set. The pilot jet often becomes plugged, it has a very tiny aperture, and it affects low-speed and idle, and can produce not running on all-four cylinders at those speeds, while allowing normal running beyond the rpm's at which it/they are metering.

Count upon changing all fluids: engine oil, brakes, clutch, coolant, and maybe down the road when it's laid-up for the winter, fork oil. The final drive gear oil is another place to at-least check the level, once it's yours, and plan to change it during the winter down-time. Keep a spreadsheet of what/when you do things.

Yes the clutch needs a good bleed and if you're bleeding it, you might as-well replace it. I suspect the handlebar master cylinders have opaque fluid, it should be clear. It they aren't (rear brake too) change the fluid, DOT 4 is cheap, available anywhere, and will help to restore proper function and prevent corrosion from water in the hygroscopic (I love to-absorb water) fluid.

Lots of clutch tech info here:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
 
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I picked up a one owner 86 back in February. It had been sitting for 10 years. I’m still working on getting it sorted out. Actually, it “was” sorted out but I did the clutch and then let it sit over the Arizona summer and now I’m fighting carburetors again. Any motorcycle that old will need love. The heavy hitters have already been mentioned here.
 
I figured on going through entire bike mechanically this winter if I get it. Replaced slave cylinder in a 96 and 02 Royal Star and did all the maintenance on them so I should be familiar with basic structure of a Vmax. I just wanted to know what price point... If it pops out of second I'll either pass or pay 500 or less... I know that is a real pain to fix and $2k at a dealership. If it runs well and doesn't have any obvious issues I'll pay 1500 (he already came down to 1800). I checked Vin and saw title... Clean and clear and no reported accidents, thefts, etc.

I wanted a project for the winter (have 4 20 year old Yamahas now all in pristine condition and I don't mind doing all the maintenance. Always wanted a stock 1st gen Vmax... This one appears all stock one owner and low mileage so hopefully just the normal 35 year old replace/fix stuff.
 
Looking at a one owner 1986 Vmax... 16,500 miles. I know old Yamahas pretty well but never had a Vmax. Owner says "clutch is soft needs bled"... So I am assuming it's a hydraulic clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder on my RSV. Is it pretty much the same with the slipper clutch on a Vmax?

Any particular things to look for when test riding? Always wanted a 1st gen and hopefully this one is as nice and stock as it appears (not sure if it's stock exhaust)

This is my 89 imported direct from Japan the exhaust/silencers are stock
 

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Just because it came from Japan, doesn't necessarily mean it has no boost, mine was imported from Japan but is actually Canadian model (full power)

The frame number contains info about the original market.
Search for yamaha frame number decoder.
 
Just because it came from Japan, doesn't necessarily mean it has no boost, mine was imported from Japan but is actually Canadian model (full power)

The frame number contains info about the original market.
Search for yamaha frame number decoder.
Thanks for the info I will ........ Mine has no V boost and came over to UK from Japan around 2000 pre owned by Japanese person
 
Ended up buying a customized 1998 Gen 1...its loud and fast
 

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