Low speed wobble after rear tire change

[Mr. Max]

I changed my worn out metzeler 880 to michelin commander II and now bike "wobbles" around 40-45mph, it feels like its up and down movement? I can take my hands of the bars when it occurs. I think it made this sometimes with old tire too, but now it is all the time at that speed. Lower or higher speed and it is normal.. Can it be just badly balanced?
I have checked that steering bearings are tight (seans video at youtube) but if I drive hardish over a railroad crossing etc. I get a loud "klunk" sound from frontend, and it had made that sound like two seasons now.. Might be worn out bearings then or what do you guys think?

 

[9.nub]

Sounds like the rear is out of balance. I do run Michelin Commander 2s without that problem. I doubt the 2 year old clunk is related.

 

[alorio1]

Your tire may not have seated correctly. Look at the pic, here is a link to the larger pic...http://www.clarity.net/adam/images/bike/tirechange/ridge.jpg

 

[alorio1]

The clunk maybe you're fluid level is low. You might want to change the fork oil.

 

[sdt354]

I changed my worn out metzeler 880 to michelin commander II and now bike "wobbles" around 40-45mph, it feels like its up and down movement? I can take my hands of the bars when it occurs. I think it made this sometimes with old tire too, but now it is all the time at that speed. Lower or higher speed and it is normal.. Can it be just badly balanced?
I have checked that steering bearings are tight (seans video at youtube) but if I drive hardish over a railroad crossing etc. I get a loud "klunk" sound from frontend, and it had made that sound like two seasons now.. Might be worn out bearings then or what do you guys think?

The bearings races could be notched and still pass the bounce test. I'd do an inspection. They can always use a new grease packing if good.
I'd pull that back wheel, then tire, and mount it in a truing stand. Check the wheel for run out both ways. The stands are cheap at H.F. and useful for anyone owning a bike. Remount the tire and check it, even if new. You can balance your tires yourself now if ya bought the stand. I positioned my last rear tire to need no weights. Wheel bearings are next. Check the Swing-arm adjustment too.And it's bearings of course.

 

[Itgoes]

My guess would be the tire.....it has a high spot.

I had the same exact problem, back of bike went up and down when going slow, couldn't really feel it at speed. Drove me nuts though.

Wasn't until I got it on PCW's dyno when I could actually see the bike going up and down while it idled that I knew what it was. John said he had seen a lot of Avons with that problem......I'm sure it could show up on other brands as well.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I don't think an improperly seated or out of balance tire is going to "clunk" over railroad crossings...The other symptoms you describe yes it might be due to a tire problem,.... but if it is truly "clunking" on hard low speed bumps then I say something else is going on........

 

[Mr. Max]

"clunck" might come from front shocks, if and when they extend to top point? Air pressures were ok on shocks (0,65bar both), I dont know about oils but it feels ok. Nothing feels loose on frontend, and it handles good.. I think I take the wheel off and go back to dealer with it.

 

[COP RUNNER]

i WHEN I MOUNTED MY NEW TIRES , I HAD TO PUT WELL OVER 100 LBS. IN THEM FOR THEM TO POP ONTO THE RIM , THEY WERE SO TIGHT I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT ! ....... SO LOOK ALL THE WAY AROUND THE RIM AND MAKE SURE THE TIRE IS SEATED ! . :confused2:

 

[Mr. Max]

I put bike on a centerstand and let it run on 1st gear, seems like tire has high spot indeed. Well, I took it off and I'm going back to dealer, might be that it hasn't seated correctly but lets see what they think.

EDIT: Back from dealer (my local Yamaha stealership), it seems that tire has seated properly but it has highspot about 1mm, this is normal they say and "the road isn't even either" lol. Well, I don't know shit about tires, should they be even or not, but these guys had put 2.9bar pressure to back wheel, I know I should have checked it but hell, that is my local genuine original YAMAHA dealer!! This time I asked how much they put pressure in it, and I told to reduce it to 2,25bar which is about what is recommended. The guy there said, that they put 2,9bar to rear and 2,5 to front on every single wheel what they install, "they can't know recommended air pressures for every make and model" holy fuck I say bikers trust their lives to these so called professional mechanics, shit I'm pissed. Wonder how they do engine rebuilds, torqs etc..

Well that air pressure might help some, it's raining so hard now that I don't want to go test it yet, maybe tomorrow.

 

[CaptainKyle]

I noticed you said it done it some times with the old tire to. Have you thought about checking your swing arm bearings ?

 

[alorio1]

I put bike on a centerstand and let it run on 1st gear, seems like tire has high spot indeed. Well, I took it off and I'm going back to dealer, might be that it hasn't seated correctly but lets see what they think.

EDIT: Back from dealer (my local Yamaha stealership), it seems that tire has seated properly but it has highspot about 1mm, this is normal they say and "the road isn't even either" lol. Well, I don't know shit about tires, should they be even or not, but these guys had put 2.9bar pressure to back wheel, I know I should have checked it but hell, that is my local genuine original YAMAHA dealer!! This time I asked how much they put pressure in it, and I told to reduce it to 2,25bar which is about what is recommended. The guy there said, that they put 2,9bar to rear and 2,5 to front on every single wheel what they install, "they can't know recommended air pressures for every make and model" holy fuck I say bikers trust their lives to these so called professional mechanics, shit I'm pissed. Wonder how they do engine rebuilds, torqs etc..

Well that air pressure might help some, it's raining so hard now that I don't want to go test it yet, maybe tomorrow.

Most all dealers will screw you over on a new tire installment if they sold you the tire and as far as a professional mechanic doing the installation, it was probably the guy who sweeps the floor that installed the tire. Then the professional mechanic put the wheel back on the bike.

 

[Mr. Max]

Yes it did, but it was like one time wtf-moment and it went away, I tought it was just bad road surface and vmax stock front suspension working together. This now is constant on certain speed, and now I took a look on my front wheel too, might be a missing weight?! I dont know if that is some old residue, but when I installed new rotors I waxed rims same time, I believe I would have scraped that off if it was there then, or then I was just super lazy and left it. Don't remember, but have to get that balanced too.

How I can check if swing arm bearings are good or not?

 

[Miles Long]

Most all dealers will screw you over on a new tire installment if they sold you the tire and as far as a professional mechanic doing the installation, it was probably the guy who sweeps the floor that installed the tire. Then the professional mechanic put the wheel back on the bike.

+1. Don't assume anything, after having a tire installed at a "professional"shop.
Check for proper tire rotation installation (the arrows on the sidewalls), that all nuts, bolts and cotter pins have been tightened and installed, and of course tire pressure is correct, before leaving the shop. Just from my experiences.
Cheers!

 

[Rusty McNeil]

1 mm (About .040") of run out doesn't sound like very much for the axial run out....

 

[Mr. Max]

Rear and front wheels are now balanced, no cure, I'm starting to think that it might be steering bearings.. It feels like it has been tightened too tight, front end up and I can leave bars to any point and they will stay without dropping to stopper. Also feels like it isn't smooth from end to end.. How hard is it to change those steering bearings?

 

[Miles Long]

I had the same problem when I purchased the bike new - a front end wobble at the same speed - 35-50 kph- regardless of gear selection/rpm.
I had the tires checked for balance and inflation, I did my own runout checks, and steering bearing checks(trying diffeent torque settings)
Nothing worked. Same wobble, at a specific speed range only.
Then I did the Furbur Fix. Worked like a charm! Absolutely no wobble, after 8 years of use.
Try it, you've got nothing to lose. Only takes a few minutes, nothing is destroyed, and you can always go back to the stock arrangement.
Many folks debunk this fix, all I can say - it worked for me. The one possible thing that I did different was that I used a stainless steel spacer washer, instead of the recommended aluminum one.
I believe that I know the theory as to why this fix works, but no need to get into that (again). "The ends justify the means"
Cheers!

 

[Mr. Max]

I haven't heard of that before, I googled it and got some info. So did you just change the arrangement of stock parts, or did you replace that rubber shim to stainless one? I'd be happy to hear what size shim that has to be, so I can go and pick one up.. I might try that mod with new bearings, that should take care of front end issues!

 

[Redbone]

I think the Furbur fix is a good fix and I believe Sean's fix is equally good. I have had no issues after using Sean's method and still retain the stock setup as far as washers go. I have had some funny wobbles that presented itself in a particular 35mph r hander every time but only occasionally in other corners. After a month of this I used Sean's video and trying different torque settings the wobble was eliminated.
I think the key is getting the correct torque while maintaining bind free movement of the handlebars.

 

[Miles Long]

I haven't heard of that before, I googled it and got some info. So did you just change the arrangement of stock parts, or did you replace that rubber shim to stainless one? I'd be happy to hear what size shim that has to be, so I can go and pick one up.. I might try that mod with new bearings, that should take care of front end issues!

The rubber is replaced with stainless, the washer is about the same size and thickness of the rubber-about 3 mm.
I just used a S.S. washer that I had lying around, maybe a 1" or 11/4"?
I think I only had to file out the I.D. to make it fit.
Hope it works for you.