Lowering the rear 1.5" by cutting some of the spring anyone do it ?

[CNN SUCKS DONKEY]

I took a quik look in the how to's but didnt see anything this topic. My goal since lowering the front 1- 3/8" is to lower the rear on the cheap if posible. First thing to come to mind is cutting some of the rear spring to lower it 1.5". Any potential problems by using this cave man method ? Also any method or how to's to recomend either this forum or other would be apreciated.

 

[V-Four]

Well..never done it, but i am an 'engineer'. Seems like the potential issues would be bottoming out sooner. Yes, it would be lower in its stationary position. But i assume they are designed to compress 'x' amount, based on weight etc.

My 'unprofessional 'opinion is that you would be fine if you do NOT ride 2up. (Again, this depends on how heavy you ..AND YOUR POTENTIAL PASSENGERS are.)

So, u cld be fine, could be disastrous.

Personally , i would save and buy the actual shocks designed for the job.

But, who the 'FLICK' am i?

Good luck.

T $

 

[Itgoes]

The rear springs/shocks are marginal to begin with especially if they are older.

Cutting them to shorten them is not a good idea.

I'd keep an eye out for a set of good used shorter shocks. I just sold a set of Progressives here for $150....they were very nice.

 

[CNN SUCKS DONKEY]

Im 270 i dont ride two up. Q. How is lowered springs and cut factory springs in anyway diffrent with regard to bottoming out ? Considering the vmax sits a bit higer than a typical cruiser Harley, VTX, M109 etc.

 

[Traumahawk]

I wouldnt do it. The rear springs are progressive, and by cutting a coil or 2 off, you are changing the rate of the spring.

 

[MaxMidnight]

How is lowered springs and cut factory springs in anyway diffrent with regard to bottoming out?

They would use a higher spring rate.

The other issue above those already mentioned is that you will have removed the flat section of spring that normally site into the end cup. A cut spring will make point contact before trying to lay around the cup.
Not sure what these forces would do to the alignment of the spring or long term durability.

The reason that this isn't done or written about is because it is probably a bad idea.

 

[dannymax]

I wouldnt do it. The rear springs are progressive, and by cutting a coil or 2 off, you are changing the rate of the spring.

+1 What I was thinking too, you could end up with a 'lumber wagon' ride, and maybe blow out the seals.

 

[CNN SUCKS DONKEY]

Whats the diffrence in ride qaulity between progresive and non progresive rear shocks/springs. What would the rider actualy feel ?

 

[[email protected]]

Before chopping the springs up you may want to consider making some lowering plates for the rear shocks.

Check out this thread

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=12445&highlight=shock

 

[sdt354]

Whats the diffrence in ride qaulity between progresive and non progresive rear shocks/springs. What would the rider actualy feel ?

I can vouch for the Progressive 440's being night and day to the OEM's, especially when originals are worn. The dampening is much better and the adjustment is about infinite. Load carrying is superior too. The cheaper progressives work almost as well.

 

[Fire-medic]

Progressive springs provide a 'rising-rate' of firmness, the more the spring compresses, the more-firm it becomes. Straight-rate springs have a single amount of firmness, dictated by the diameter of the wire, its coil spacing, and the alloy's properties. The force to compress the spring remains the same as the spring fully-moves to the point of full compression/coil binding.

Correct damping and rebound can make even a short-travel shock perform acceptably. Current cruiser models from H-D and Yamaha have garnered recognition of this despite only having 2 or 3 inches of travel after being road-tested by the national magazine reviewers.

Progressive-rate springs work well for most people who occasionally ride two-up and who don't bother to re-set the preload on the shock collar when carrying that passenger. They are pretty-much the industry standard.

 

[DanQuin]

Another reason not to cut the spring is due to the set length of the spring (installed) being less than the free length of the spring (uninstalled). The reason for this is to place enough preload on the spring as to keep it located properly in the suspension component (fork or shock). Shortening the stock spring without limiting the shock's ability to extend beyond the fully extended length of the spring could result in very undesirable results.

Consider a proper replacement or contact a suspension shop to the have the existing shocks shortened.

 

[Eugene Brad]

@ QBBNJKJL aAwqqqa

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[Eugene Brad]

@ QBBNJKJL aAwqqqa

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Sorry, that would be from my two year old. He likes playing with my phone. He is pretty smart when it comes vmax susspension, lol

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[Traumahawk]

LoL......start them young.

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