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Not sure if any of the other guys have measure it yet. I don't remember the cost but want to say $350 per journal is the normal charge to rework a crank.

Sean
 
I've got a few cranks laying around that would be cool to use depending on price. I wonder if we can reuse the stock piston or when you cut the crank if the final deck height will be similar??? I've got a 1570 chain drive block that would be huge (1680cc) if we could do the same crank mod.

Sean

Is the 1570 stk stroke? If so, i assume you've got a 87mm bore?(puts it at 1569cc)
If you kept that, and changed the stroke by 8mm and ran the Busa length rods, it would be a 1760cc!!!!
 
Yea, it's with stock stroke and would be huge. I have even thought about building a new engine for the drag bike where we bore out the complete sleeve support and use the outer jacket area to press the liner into. Combine that with the stroke and I am sure we can get it over 3000cc's!!

Sean
 
Yea, it's with stock stroke and would be huge. I have even thought about building a new engine for the drag bike where we bore out the complete sleeve support and use the outer jacket area to press the liner into. Combine that with the stroke and I am sure we can get it over 3000cc's!!
Sean

I think that's how Paul put together his turbo 2400cc motor. 3000cc would just be sick :punk:
 
After much thinking I've decided to build a VMAX Funnybike. Took a year off from racing and I can't stand it any longer. It's going to be a 2 liter engine with a big turbo and our new EFI setup. Looking to make about 1000 HP. Was going to do the welded stroker but figure I may as well cut to the chase.

Billet cases, billet crank, billet rods. Going to pretty busy this winter so I won't be able to pursue doing the welded stroker crank busa rod engine. Will keep you all posted with the new engine build.
 
Ready to commit on a couple of cranks? I did get a call from Bill at wild brothers and he is in for one (maybe 2) as long as they are 5mm strokers (might take a diff stroke if it works but not stock length).

Sean
 
After much thinking I've decided to build a VMAX Funnybike. Took a year off from racing and I can't stand it any longer. It's going to be a 2 liter engine with a big turbo and our new EFI setup. Looking to make about 1000 HP. Was going to do the welded stroker but figure I may as well cut to the chase.

Billet cases, billet crank, billet rods. Going to pretty busy this winter so I won't be able to pursue doing the welded stroker crank busa rod engine. Will keep you all posted with the new engine build.

Screw Batman, You are my new hero :clapping:
I can't wait to follow the build.
 
Sean,

I'd really like to have a billet stock version... but it won't work for the engine build. Too many things are going to change. One of the main reasons I decided to pull the trigger on the project is that I now have my first sponser. A local machine shop that is going to do the machining for not. So I'll actually machine my own crank. Sounds like you have a good deal going there.

My brother is building another bike right now... let me see if I can talk him into the stroker combo. When do you plan to put in the order?
 
I won't place the order till I have most of the cranks committed and we know for sure what we want for stroke. Who knows if we will even get commitments this year? It's a lot of cash for sure to lay out but cheap for what you get.

Sean
 
Sean,

The price is defiantly awesome as most billet one offs are in the $3000 dollar price range. Since I'll be doing the design work and machine programming, a lot of cost will be cut out. We'll be working at CNC programming the crank first for the funnybike... so lets see what I can come up with for a price. Plan to just semi finish it leaving the finish for the crank grinder along with the heat treat. Comes down to the cost of material, machine time and the cost for the crank grinder/heat treat work. Probably why they want the 10 crank minimum.

The journals for my crank will be quite a bit larger than stock. Sooo... it would just be a matter of changing the program up a bit for different strokes etc. to have more cranks machined.
 
"I'm as hard as a diamond in an ice storm."
. . ... Ricky Bobby


Keep up the good work and let me know if there is anything I can do besides sponsorship $$. I do have an interview for a new job on Thursday, so if things go well, maybe I can finally spend a few more dollars on the turbo bike and get it up to par.
 
Any reason to go larger on the journals? If you use the 4340 you should have plenty of strength but keep your bearing surface speed down. If you increase the journal size much you will really be speeding up the bearing surface speeds which won't be good if you plan to rev it much.

Sean
 
Was playing around with Corel this morning when I threw this together.
Does that engine look familiar? :clapping:

Not my best work, I'm still tinkering with the software, I'm thinking about going back to my old setup. I'll make ya a more photo-realistic one
 

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"I'm as hard as a diamond in an ice storm."
. . ... Ricky Bobby


Keep up the good work and let me know if there is anything I can do besides sponsorship $$. I do have an interview for a new job on Thursday, so if things go well, maybe I can finally spend a few more dollars on the turbo bike and get it up to par.

I wish you good luck with that interview Jeff. I'd hire you.
 
Got a guy locally that builds a killer rolling drag chassis's. He quoted me $4000 for rolling chassis.

Sean
 
Was playing around with Corel this morning when I threw this together.
Does that engine look familiar? :clapping:

Not my best work, I'm still tinkering with the software, I'm thinking about going back to my old setup. I'll make ya a more photo-realistic one


Now that's what I'm talkin about! Nice work KJ... you hit the head right on the nail.
 
Sean,

The bottom end of the engine and crank won't have a whole lot in common with the existing gen 1. It will be modeled after the PUMA engines used in top fuel bikes. PUMA uses a combination of plane bearings for center journals with roller bearing outers.

Since it is purpose built the bearing diameters generally on these types of applications are very large. The reasoning has more to do more with crank twist than longevity. Smaller bearings do last longer theoretically but since we're dealing with a hydrostatic bearing the crank journals should never really touch the bearings if the oil pressure/volume is sufficient. So surface speed is higher but not a big concern considering the length of time your actually redlining the engine ... hopefully 6 seconds
 
Check this out... PUMA V8

pumav8-9.jpg
 
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