Main fuse keeps blowing

[Jimbozcrazy]

I have an 89 Max that keeps blowing the main fuse. Started the other day while riding, I'd put the spare in and it would run for a minute, then POP. Now I can't even get the fuse fully seated before it blows. I've already bypassed the keyed ignition switch hoping it was there, no luck. I'm down to tearing out the entire wire harness unless someone has some insight:ummm:. Hopefully there is yet ANOTHER V-Max gremlin I haven't yet heard about, but is an easy fix:bang head:. Any help is appreciated.

 

[[email protected]]

You say the fuse blows before its even fully seated? Is the key off, engine switch off? If so, that should narrow things down a good bit.

 

[maleko89]

Try unplugging your Rectifier/Regulator. It's the single red wire connector near battery on left side.

 

[SpecOps13]

+1 R/R and welcome to the Forum...

 

[bazwell]

you say the fuse blows before its even fully seated? Is the key off, engine switch off? If so, that should narrow things down a good bit.

+1

 

[Jimbozcrazy]

Yes, completely removed the keyed switch. Haven't tried unplugging the RR yet (will do that next, Thanks!), although... probably fried it late last night after accidentally securing my ground wire to the POSITIVE battery terminal, (DOH!). Looks like I only fried the ground wire, but ran out of 30A fuses and hit the frustration wall about that time anyway. Have a spare RR I can use if needed. Thanks for the tip, will let ya know what happens. Thanks for the welcome as well =)

 

[SpecOps13]

I just noticed you have an 89 too... They Rock.....:clapping:

 

[sdt354]

When I diagnose that kind of stuff I replace the fuse with a decent size amp meter in series of course, right on the fuse terminals. Puill all fuses, diactivate everything possible. Then activate one circuit at a time watching for the meter to jump past 30 on the main, dead short to ground will blow a little meter fuse so be ready to ysnk it off. Of course you may avoid that PIA just unplugging the r/r first, like mentioned.Like Mike said, key is off? that narrows down hot circuits unless a cross exist, which is kind of rare. Hope this helped.
Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

I just noticed you have an 89 too... They Rock.....:clapping:

:biglaugh: +1

 

[Jimbozcrazy]

Aaargg! Ok, got my old spare r/r out and then noticed I had removed the factory connector from the three white wires... Uhm... does it matter which three wires I connect to the other three wires? I read the sticky post on the R1 r/r conversion and I this I can gleam from that post that indeed it does not matter, but I would really like to be sure before I go splicing up and cause more problems than I originally had.

Thanks for the 89 Props! I love it too!unk:

 

[Jimbozcrazy]

Oh yeah, btw, unhooked the r/r and put the fuse back in, then plugged the r/r back up and POP went the fuse, there's definitely my problem. THANKS!!

 

[maleko89]

It's either the R/R or the stator. Unplug the stator to R/R connection (3 white wires) and re-test. If it doesn't blow, it's the stator. If it does, R/R.

 

[Jimbozcrazy]

I eliminated the factory connector and spliced the 3 wires directly to the r/r about 2 years ago, in order to test I need to cut the wires, (now I see the wisdom in the connector). Does it make any difference wich stator wire I hook to which r/r lead? Or is the only wire that really matters the red one?

 

[maleko89]

Correct, order of the white wires does not matter.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Yes, completely removed the keyed switch. Haven't tried unplugging the RR yet (will do that next, Thanks!), although... probably fried it late last night after accidentally securing my ground wire to the POSITIVE battery terminal, (DOH!). Looks like I only fried the ground wire, but ran out of 30A fuses and hit the frustration wall about that time anyway. Have a spare RR I can use if needed. Thanks for the tip, will let ya know what happens. Thanks for the welcome as well =)

Like this mate says i should say this oughta be the quickest Doh! award presented till date... Garrett... Step forward... again!... :rofl_200:

 

[Jimbozcrazy]

Oh yes, and I would hold both the number one AND number two spot if I posted my story of my first experience changing out my fork seals....

Did you know about the bolt in the bottom of the forks holding the damn things on?

Yeah.... manual? what manual? I don't need no stinkin manual....

 

[ninjaneer]

Like this mate says i should say this oughta be the quickest Doh! award presented till date... Garrett... Step forward... again!... :rofl_200:

weasel anyone can nominate someone for an award. go for it

It's either the R/R or the stator. Unplug the stator to R/R connection (3 white wires) and re-test. If it doesn't blow, it's the stator. If it does, R/R.

I've got a stator that's been sitting on eBay for a month. if you need one, it's yours. I'd offer you my R/R but you said you already had one.

 

[Jimbozcrazy]

Thanks ninjaneer but looks like I wont need it after all :biglaugh: After replacing the burned up r/r with my old spare one, the bikes lives again! Now I'll be on the hunt for an R1 replacement and cure this gremlin once and for all.

Thanks for the help all!

 

[bazwell]

Aaargg! Ok, got my old spare r/r out and then noticed I had removed the factory connector from the three white wires... Uhm... does it matter which three wires I connect to the other three wires? I read the sticky post on the R1 r/r conversion and I this I can gleam from that post that indeed it does not matter, but I would really like to be sure before I go splicing up and cause more problems than I originally had.

Thanks for the 89 Props! I love it too!unk:

ha ha ha.... I commented without noticing the 2nd page!
Comment removed due to stupidity.

 

[PATMAX]

Just a heads, Captain Kyle has the Mosfet R/R for sale reasonable. That's where I got mine! He may be on the road to TX right now hauling Vmaxes and Ass'.